Partial Solar Eclipse - How to?

MWHCVT

MWHCVT

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How would you go about photographing the upcoming partial solar eclipse that we are due to get in the UK on 4/1/2010.

http://www.eclipse.org.uk/eclipse/0122011/

According to this link it should be visible in the UK between around 8:15-9:45am.

I hope that someone will have some input on this.

I'm thinking a combination of a fast shutter speed and a smallish aperture, maybe even a combination of ND Filters. :help:

Matt
MWHCVT
 
If you can find some welding glass it could work. It blocks out so much light that I can look at the midday sun in summer.

There is always a risk any filter that is absorbing a lot of heat and light could shatter but I don't suppose it will be exposed for too long and there is not going to be a lot of power in the sunlight we receive at this time of year.

Looking at the forecast it could be the clouds will give enough cover.

Dave
 
Normally I would only recommend pointing a lens at a partial eclipse if that lens had a proper solar filter in front of it, something like Baader Astrofilm. However, this eclipse is unusual in that it happens at sunrise, and we've all got experience of shooting at sunrise/sunset.

Assuming that I've recovered from this damn flu, and that the weather forecast is OK for Tuesday morning, I'm aiming to be on top of the South Downs to get a shot of the eclipsed Sun rising out of the sea. I'm hoping that my 300 f2.8 won't need any filtering with the rising sun. Otherwise it'll be my 70-200 with an ND8 or ND64.
 
hollis_f said:
Normally I would only recommend pointing a lens at a partial eclipse if that lens had a proper solar filter in front of it, something like Baader Astrofilm. However, this eclipse is unusual in that it happens at sunrise, and we've all got experience of shooting at sunrise/sunset.

Assuming that I've recovered from this damn flu, and that the weather forecast is OK for Tuesday morning, I'm aiming to be on top of the South Downs to get a shot of the eclipsed Sun rising out of the sea. I'm hoping that my 300 f2.8 won't need any filtering with the rising sun. Otherwise it'll be my 70-200 with an ND8 or ND64.
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I was thinking the same, I intend to use my 70-300 with my Cokin P Series ND's in place I have an 8,4,2 and can stack in all three or maybe even the ND8 and 4 plus the Grand ND8 as to settings i'm thinking start small and fast and then tweak until I am happy since it is going to last for a decent amount of time.

Matt
MWHCVT
 
If you can find some welding glass it could work. It blocks out so much light that I can look at the midday sun in summer.
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NO... this is not safe, nor is using ND filters.. you need proper solar film, baader is the best and is supplied in two differing grades, one for visual and camera use, the other only for camera use.

Its easy to make a filter holder out of cardboard for any lens.

Just wrap a piece of cardboard around the end of your lens, mark it up, then cut it to length and glue it together with strong tape ( parcel tape works well)
Then wrap another strip of cardboard around it and the lens, do the same as you did with the first one.

You now should have two short tubes that will fit one within the other.

Cut a square of solar film so it completely covers & overlaps the end of the smaller tube by at least 1/2 an inch, then carefully tape it in place.
Push the smaller tube with the film on, film first into the larger tube, if its not a tight fit you can tape it in place or add a couple of drops of superglue at the bottom.

Once finished and any glue is dry you can push it over the end of the lens you are using and shoot safely.

If you want to view using the film the easiest way is to tape some film over an old pair of sunglasses.

Same methods can be used for telescopes or binoculars.

I have to reiterate YOU MUST NOT LOOK DIRECTLY AT THE SUN WITHOUT PROPER SOLAR FILM OR FILTERS, OR LOOK THROUGH A CAMERA LENS, BINOCULARS OR A TELESCOPE THAT IS NOT FITTED WITH A PROPER SOLAR FILTER

ND filters and welding glass will not protect you properly
 
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iancandler said:
NO... this is not safe, nor is using ND filters.. you need proper solar film, baader is the best and is supplied in two differing grades, one for visual and camera use, the other only for camera use.

Its easy to make a filter holder out of cardboard for any lens.

Just wrap a piece of cardboard around the end of your lens, mark it up, then cut it to length and glue it together with strong tape ( parcel tape works well)
Then wrap another strip of cardboard around it and the lens, do the same as you did with the first one.

You now should have two short tubes that will fit one within the other.

Cut a square of solar film so it completely covers & overlaps the end of the smaller tube by at least 1/2 an inch, then carefully tape it in place.
Push the smaller tube with the film on, film first into the larger tube, if its not a tight fit you can tape it in place or add a couple of drops of superglue at the bottom.

Once finished and any glue is dry you can push it over the end of the lens you are using and shoot safely.

If you want to view using the film the easiest way is to tape some film over an old pair of sunglasses.

Same methods can be used for telescopes or binoculars.

I have to reiterate YOU MUST NOT LOOK DIRECTLY AT THE SUN WITHOUT PROPER SOLAR FILM OR FILTERS, OR LOOK THROUGH A CAMERA LENS, BINOCULARS OR A TELESCOPE THAT IS NOT FITTED WITH A PROPER SOLAR FILTER

ND filters and welding glass will not protect you properly
Click to expand...

Ian, I don't suppose that you know of any suppliers of Solar Film/Filter Suppliers, I would really like to have a go at this.

Matt
MWHCVT
 
philipbennett said:
If I was using live view on my Sony A350 would using just ND filters be OK, and if so which ones?
Click to expand...

Dont matter now i've gone the solar film route :)
 
Holy thread revival I know, but there's a solar eclipse due to happen in November near Cairns, which I'm thinking of making a trip up for and I'm just wanting clarity on a couple of things;

1) Does my camera sensor need protecting (or can I shoot whilst wearing sunglasses covered with solar film as Ian suggested?)

2) Will I be able to get a shot like http://www.worldtimezone.com/travel/photos/siberia-solar-eclipse06.jpg using that technique, or is more equipment needed?

Thanks,
 
roadeh said:
Holy thread revival I know, but there's a solar eclipse due to happen in November near Cairns, which I'm thinking of making a trip up for and I'm just wanting clarity on a couple of things;

1) Does my camera sensor need protecting (or can I shoot whilst wearing sunglasses covered with solar film as Ian suggested?)
Click to expand...

During the partial phase both your eyes and your camera will need protection. Here's a link describing how I made my screw-in solar filter. Use this for everything until moments before totality, then you can shoot without a filter.


roadeh said:
2) Will I be able to get a shot like http://www.worldtimezone.com/travel/photos/siberia-solar-eclipse06.jpg using that technique, or is more equipment needed?
Click to expand...

That link isn't working for me. But here's a link to a bunch of photos I shot in Turkey 2006 using a 20D and a 100-400. The photos are complete rubbish - as is every single photo ever taken of a total eclipse. Well, they're all rubbish compared to the live experience. I really didn't expect to feel such strong emotions. It really was exceptional and the photos and/or videos just don't do it justice.

If I go chasing another eclipse I'll use the same gear (well, a newer camera). I'd also use my Flip video camera to film the whole experience - just set it up to shoot the people and leave it running.
 
Thanks guys; seems like hotlinking doesn't work from that site.. but Frank's shots are pretty much the kind I was looking for. I've also got the 100-400 so hopefully can get some good shots.

Frank; any reason why you stopped down to f11 / ISO400 on the pic in your filter link?

I also saw the composite you tried; I take it that its pretty difficult to capture the whole scene in one exposure on a wide lens? I think having my camera will be distracting from what you said is an amazing experience, so definitely don't want to be switching lenses (and might have to resort to my compact, which doesn't have AEB)..
 
Anyone else interested in other such celestial events, 6th june this year venus will be passing the sun. I shall be looking at it through a 9.25" telescope, with the proper solar filter.

Please guys be careful when looking at the sun through any lenses or glass.
 
roadeh said:
Frank; any reason why you stopped down to f11 / ISO400 on the pic in your filter link?
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No real reason and I can't recall my thinking at the time. The 100-400's sweet spot is around f8 to f11 - so that explains the aperture; and I wanted a fairly fast shutter speed because I wasn't bothering with remote releases or mirror lock-up - so that explains the ISO.

roadeh said:
I also saw the composite you tried; I take it that its pretty difficult to capture the whole scene in one exposure on a wide lens? I think having my camera will be distracting from what you said is an amazing experience, so definitely don't want to be switching lenses (and might have to resort to my compact, which doesn't have AEB).
Click to expand...

It would have been almost impossible for me to get the whole scene in a single exposure. Firstly, the Sun was too hogh in the sky. Then there was the problem of focal length - the view of the valley was shot at 17mm, which would have meant that the Sun's corona would have been a tiny, indistinguishable blob.

There's definitely no time for switching lenses. During totality you'll want to shoot with a wide range of exposure. I shot at f8 (sweet spot) and ISO200 (didn't want to go much higher on the 20D). I had a rehearsed shedule of what I was going to shoot and when - which got totally forgotten when totality started. I just had enough rational thought left to know that I was supposed to be varying my shots - so I randomly changed shutter speed between 1/5s and 1/500 and hoped something worked. I did rememeber to stop every now and then to take it all in - I think those were the moments when my body reminded me that it was time to breathe.
 
MWHCVT said:
How would you go about photographing the upcoming partial solar eclipse that we are due to get in the UK on 4/1/2010.

Matt
MWHCVT
Click to expand...

Hi Matt,

I reckon that you're going to need a DeLorean at least - but I've heard that a Tardis works better with the MkIII ;)
 
Adrian, its not the delorian that makes time travel possible its the flux capacitor, you just need to be capable of getting to 88mph and have 1.21jigawatts. ;)

Anyway my baader solar film arrived I now need to come up with a way of using it on my 300mm ready for the transit of venus.
 
Little John said:
Anyway my baader solar film arrived I now need to come up with a way of using it on my 300mm ready for the transit of venus.
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Is it a 300mm f4 or f2.8? If it's the f4 then you can use the instructions in the post above to sandwich the film between two UV filters. If it's the f2.8 then you need to make one of these -

Solar%20filter%20300.jpg


It's a 50cm x 12cm strip of cardboard stuck together so that it slips easily on and off the 300's hood. Then the solar film is wrapped around one end and securely duck-taped.

In use some more tape keeps the whole thing secured to the hood.
 
Thanks Frank, its the 2.8 I was thinking could I use the gelatin filter holder? or use the hood to hold it on circle and then add 4 -8 tabs to slip between the hoon and lens.
 
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