Speedlight choice for d7000; What does auto zoom range mean to DX format?

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Chris
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I didn't want to thread jack rhonddaboy and my line of questioning is a little different although also about speedlight selection

Any recommendations for my first speedlight flash on the d7000? I am to-ing and fro-ing between nikon sb700 and sb910

I've looked at the likes of yongnuo but they totally divide opinion. Other than overheating of the sb900 and the prices, don't think I have read anything other than positive stuff on the nikons

The main thing I am unsure about is the auto zoom and what that really means to a DX format camera. Any simple explanation for a flash noob would be appreciated

Cheers
Chris
 
You tell the flash if you are using dx or fx and it compensates automatically. Sb900 dors not overheat, the function you are referring to Is a theal cut off to stop it overheating. This can be disabled in the menu. You have to work it hard to trigger the protection.
 
I have a sb-700 on my d3200 and it is a fantastic bit of kit. Did a recent shoot with almost two hours of continuous shooting and no sign of any heating issues.
 
I get that the flash compensates for DX.....but on the flash specs they define an auto zoom range on the sb700 it's up to 120mm and the sb910 is up to 200mm. ...but I guess what I am saying is I don't really know what that means and then in terms of actual focal length on DX cameras there is the crop factor to bear in mind so does that apply to this on the flash or what?

I did say I was a flash noob! ;)
 
Not entirely sure but I would assume that it would be 1.5 times stated as it is for a lenses. One thing to be aware of though is there is a chance of shadowing if using physically long lenses with the flash on camera.
 
I get that the flash compensates for DX.....but on the flash specs they define an auto zoom range on the sb700 it's up to 120mm and the sb910 is up to 200mm. ...but I guess what I am saying is I don't really know what that means and then in terms of actual focal length on DX cameras there is the crop factor to bear in mind so does that apply to this on the flash or what?

I did say I was a flash noob! ;)

The zoom head setting is only relevant when the gun is fired direct, on-camera. The zoom head function then matches the angle of flash coverage to the lens, to minimise wastage around the sides and optimise power. FX and DX means the camera automatically compensates for the 1.5x crop factor.

SB910 can narrow the flash angle more tightly than the SB700, to match the coverage of a 200mm lens on full-frame, or a 133mm lens on 1.5x crop format. This increases range, as well as optimising power usage.
 
The zoom head on your flash is a bit of an unnecessary complexity.

You're not likely to use your flash on camera without bouncing it. and as soon as you tilt the head up, the zoom pattern becomes irrelevant, and the zoom will probably set itself to an arbitrary 50m or so.

You might want to experiment with the zoom angle when using the flash off camera too, it can make a difference to the spread of light in a softbox for instance.I've also been known to zoom a flash in to create lighting effects for backgrounds or hairlights.

In short, don't concern yourself with the auto zoom, you're not likely to use it.
edit: Richard beat me to it.
 
The zoom head setting is only relevant when the gun is fired direct, on-camera. The zoom head function then matches the angle of flash coverage to the lens, to minimise wastage around the sides and optimise power. FX and DX means the camera automatically compensates for the 1.5x crop factor.

SB910 can narrow the flash angle more tightly than the SB700, to match the coverage of a 200mm lens on full-frame, or a 133mm lens on 1.5x crop format. This increases range, as well as optimising power usage.

Thanks, that makes sense. I was just about to say I thought it logically would be the inverse

So on a DX the extra auto zoom on the 910 would be beneficial when on camera and using my 18-105mm at full zoom, or possibly my 105mm macro lens, but if I use a lens with longer focal length than 133 in effect the power will be wasted?....
 
The zoom head on your flash is a bit of an unnecessary complexity.

You're not likely to use your flash on camera without bouncing it. and as soon as you tilt the head up, the zoom pattern becomes irrelevant, and the zoom will probably set itself to an arbitrary 50m or so.

You might want to experiment with the zoom angle when using the flash off camera too, it can make a difference to the spread of light in a softbox for instance.I've also been known to zoom a flash in to create lighting effects for backgrounds or hairlights.

In short, don't concern yourself with the auto zoom, you're not likely to use it.
edit: Richard beat me to it.

So actually I'm wrong about the extra zoom on the 910 for DX then? So what's the point of it at all?
 
because not everyone who uses a camera is a 'photographer'.

For some people, hitting the subject with enough light is all they want from a flashgun, and a zooming head allows makers to publish great figures for the flash power (you'll notice the GN no is quoted at maximum zoom).

Photographers are concerned about the 'quality' of light, so we don't want to point a flashgun straight at our subject, it creates flat light with nasty hard shadows. To make the flash useful then we can bounce it, but as soon as you tilt the head, the camera knows it can no longer predict the coverage angle required (it's got no idea how high the ceiling is).
 
Thanks, that makes sense. I was just about to say I thought it logically would be the inverse

So on a DX the extra auto zoom on the 910 would be beneficial when on camera and using my 18-105mm at full zoom, or possibly my 105mm macro lens, but if I use a lens with longer focal length than 133 in effect the power will be wasted?....

You're making too much of it, the benefit of the extra bit of zoom on the SB910 is minor at best. It's one of those 'marketing features' that looks rather better on the spec sheet than it does in practise. And it's not as if these things are very accurate - it just means the gun projects a slightly smaller pool of light, that's more of an oblong lozenge shape than a perfect rectangle.

If you actually use direct on-camera flash with a 200mm lens, you will get horrendous red-eye and big black shadows cast behind them. That's not to say these things don't have their benefits, I sometimes use it when bouncing to get a bit more range with a high ceiling perhaps, but it's way down the list.
 
Thank you all it's making much more sense to me now and will help greatly with my flash selection

I am guessing you guys are going to recommend nikon over something such as a yongnuo?
Although I know I could get a yongnuo 568ex at less than the price of an sb700 I am thinking an sb910 features are going to be wasted on me and it's pretty big...therefore perhaps yongnuo 568ex would also be wasted on me....
 
If you wanted recommendations, I'd recommend a cheaper flashgun and a pair of YN622s to have a play with OCF.
 
Thank you all it's making much more sense to me now and will help greatly with my flash selection

I am guessing you guys are going to recommend nikon over something such as a yongnuo?
Although I know I could get a yongnuo 568ex at less than the price of an sb700 I am thinking an sb910 features are going to be wasted on me and it's pretty big...therefore perhaps yongnuo 568ex would also be wasted on me....

There are three main features that are worth paying extra for. The first is power, and when it comes to speedlites, none of them has too much of that. Then there's High Speed Sync (FP-sync in Nikonland) that's really useful for fill-in outdoors and is not common on lower-end guns. Third major feature is TTL-mastering (Commander mode for Nikon) though there are other ways of getting that these days.

A list like that will often lead to buying at least one top-end branded gun, go for it if you have the budget, but Yongnuo have rather changed the game there in the last year or so. The smart money now probably goes on YN 568 and a set of YN 622 auto-TTL radio triggers
 
The yn568ex has HSS and works in slave mode with popup flash on the d7000 acting in commander mode....not sure about TTL when off camera though...need to do some more googling

Yes, but no TTL and light-code IR mastering is not as good as radio (greater range, much more reliable outdoors). YN 568 and YN 622 covers all the bases. There are other options, but nothing like it for the money.
 
Thank you again.

The product page seems a bit ambiguous on the TTL front, mainly because of the poor English translation I think!

I think I'll pick up the 568 and see how I get on....I can always pickup a pair of 622 later
Just need to find a decent UK seller now
 
The extra zopm on the sb900 / 910 is really handy. I often use the zoom to simulate a snoot up close without having to have a snoot
 
If I was in your shoes I would get a Nikon to start with. You may start using it on camera to start with, using the bounce, you have hss if you want to use it. Fully auto, then when you get more into flash I would then get what Phil & Richard said. You may not be as frustrated to start with
 
If I was in your shoes I would get a Nikon to start with. You may start using it on camera to start with, using the bounce, you have hss if you want to use it. Fully auto, then when you get more into flash I would then get what Phil & Richard said. You may not be as frustrated to start with

I am a Canon person, but this post has sense.

I bought a 'high-end' Canon flash as my first flash, and later bought a 'cheaper' YN flash. Although the YN flash works, it doesn't 'just work' like the Canon does. I would have become so frustrated if my first flash had been the YN, and may not have continued with 'creative' lighing.
 
I am a Canon person, but this post has sense.

I bought a 'high-end' Canon flash as my first flash, and later bought a 'cheaper' YN flash. Although the YN flash works, it doesn't 'just work' like the Canon does. I would have become so frustrated if my first flash had been the YN, and may not have continued with 'creative' lighing.
:plus1:
 
I was in your shoes and dithered over sb910 or sb700 - bought sb700 and yn622 triggers and Syl Arenas off camera flash book (even though it is for canon). No regrets. OCF is a total hoot to learn. Do I miss the xtra power of the x910 or the ability to use power packs? (I think these were the only differences) Nope - not yet. Too much else to learn and play with. Softbox next for me......
 
Thanks for all the additional thoughts

I'd been looking at the YN 568 flash manual and well....translation isn't their strong point is it?! As a beginner that does put me off despite I can see the bang per buck

The sb910 is really out if my budget as well as large, but gets the extra zoom. So unless I can find a decent priced second hand one doubt I'll go with it

So right now I'm switching my thoughts and leaning towards the sb700

...choices, choices! :)
 
I've had the sb700, I own the 910 and yn-568.

I love the 568. No fuss, it just works. The 910 I mainly use as a master controller. I don't find it more powerful than the 568 and I actually find the interface on the 910 worse.

The 700 I did like but ultimately rejected because I can only control two flashes remotely.

In your shoes, with the cashback i'd say the sb70. Without....the yn-568
 
I don't know whether Nikon are the same, but Canon don't shout about their cashbacks.
I went into Jessops the other day, and they were advertising in store the cash-back price for one Canon product. Below it however, in what I found quite small text (and with the amount crossed out), a small note saying you have to pay a different price instore.
 
Well I finally decided to go for the sb700, so thanks for all the advice everyone

I missed out on the nikon cashback offer and was looking second hand, but as sh prices are close to that of new, in the end I've ordered new from Tesco....they are far from the cheapest, but I can pickup at my local store and I had a bunch of club card vouchers to spend that I had forgotten about :)
 
I only use my speedlites off camera or bounce so zoom is irrelevant. Only time I use the zoom is in manual, only to control the spread of light. Depending on modifiers, if using modifiers I have it on widest to give more light, if bare then depends on situation and required effect.
 
I have both the SB910 and the SB700 and fire them with the Yongnuo 622n transceivers via the Yongnuo yn622n TX controller with no problems. If you are thinking of getting the Yongnuo 568ex and thinking of controlling it with the same system as l do you might want to watch this video first
 
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