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fracster

I love BRASH and BRASH loves me
Suspended / Banned
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Name
Ade
Edit My Images
Yes
Goosander I think, not much PP, cos I can`t be bothered with it.....
Waterbird_unkown026.JPG


Waterbird_unkown025.JPG


Waterbird_unkown024.JPG


Waterbird_unkown023.JPG


Set to 1000 iso because i`d been photo`ing in the woods and forgot to change the ISO upon getting to the river.

D200 and 80-400.
 
Pity the bird is a bit underexposed.

Could have had some nice ones there but I'm sure you can fix it to a degree.

(y)
 
Pity the bird is a bit underexposed.

Could have had some nice ones there but I'm sure you can fix it to a degree.

(y)

Being a bit of a computer ignoramus, how would I go about doing that Anton?

I have CS3, a large "How to" book, but no idea.......:shrug:

Much as I don`t like sitting down and doing PP, I suppose i`m going to have too learn.
 
It is quite simple really,

In photoshop cs2 or 3 go "Image" > adjustments > levels and the levels dialogue box will open. Or go Ctrl + L.

You will see a histogram with the white slider bottom right and the black slider bottom left. A general rule of thumb would be to drag them in to the point where the "uphill" starts.

If your histogram is clipped - the "hills" extend beyond the sides of the graph, then just leave them at the extremes and play with the mid-slider - the grey one bottom centre.

Another way is to press and hold Alt while you bring in the white and grey sliders. One at a time of course.

As you bring in the white slider from the right you will see spots of different colours at first and they will grow and intensify into white signals.

Your subject matter will dictate how far you will bring them in so have a ball playing around.

The same is true for the black slider brought in from the left. Press and hold Alt while sliding it in and then decide how far you want to bring it.

Now fine tune with the mid-slider.

Rather rudimentary explanation but hopefully sort of understandable and once you know levels you will love it.

First prize, of course, is getting the exposure right when you click the shutter(y)

HTH!
 
Thanks Anton, I shall practice that..........(y)

And yes, your right, be better to get it right out of the camera.....:bonk:


(y)
 
Cheers m8!(y)

Remember that there is a huge lot of light coming off the water around the duck and your light meter only wants enough light at those settings (ISO, shutter and aperture) to make a 17% or 18% grey (in B&W equivalent) exposure.

That basically means that all the bright and dark evened out will make a medium grey (B&W) image.

Your camera does not know there is a dark duck against bright water...(y)

For shots like those dial in a 2/3 stop/EV over exposure for a starting point.

It could sometimes be more than 1 full f/ EV.

(y)
 
Thanks for your time on this Anton......(y)
 
Thanks for all the advice and help Anton.

Hopefully these are better, though the buggers would not fly today.

Wild river birds by the way.

166.jpg


237.jpg


330.jpg


420.jpg


615.jpg


710.jpg


89.jpg


Females would not slow down at all .....:shrug:
 
Good stuff there!

Except for the first two, all the rest were nailed down very well.

You should feel proud because these are shots that can make very seasoned togs stand with a red face :D

Last one a bit off but I quite enjoy the silhouette and silver sparkles off the water - nice.

Cheers(y)
 
Thanks Anton, I was`nt sure about the last one either, it just felt a bit different.....:shrug:
 
The exif is in the first ones that look a bit dark. It says pattern metering - that will be trying to average the light in the whole scene. try using partial or even spot metering for things where you have a subject in the middle of the shot. That way you should get a better exposed bird and a too dark or too bright background.

The exposure adjusting you are doing in editing is pretty easy to do in a RAW editor (if you are shooting RAW) and the results will usually be better from RAW too.
 
The first batch probably were matrix metering,I can`t checka s i`m at work at the mo.......:thumbsdown:, the second lot are spot metering IIRC. Also, not sure if this makes a difference, the second set were shot with the focus points changed from 11 to 7, not sure if that helps or not.

Anyway, thanks to you both for the points, i`ll keep practising......:D

Sorry forgot, they were shot in NEF.
 
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