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The 35-150 is out of stock but good to know the site and keep an eye on itE-infin have the Tamron 35-150 for £1409 and the 70-180 for £689.
The 35-150 is out of stock but good to know the site and keep an eye on itE-infin have the Tamron 35-150 for £1409 and the 70-180 for £689.
out of stockE-infin have the Tamron 35-150 for £1409 and the 70-180 for £689.
out of stock
ordered mine from LCE more than two months ago and still waiting.
If I can get my hands on it I am even willing to import it, but just can't seem to source one anywhere.
That’s a good point, if there’s loads of processing on the jpegs such as DRO, HDR etc etc then that could slow it down.So you are saying buffer clears faster on both RAW and fine jpgs than extra fine jpgs?
sounds to be like there is more processing to be done for extra fine jpgs. If that is the case your card isn't the bottleneck so no card will really help.
I shoot motorsport too, never been close to filling the buffer though, I don't want 10 shots looking practically the same let alone 450. That being said we're all entitled to shoot how we choose so if that works for you and you're happy to sift through thousands of shots that are all very similar then that's obviously your prerogative, you know what works for you
Back to the issue in hand, 450 shots clears in 180 seconds, that's 2.5 shots/second to write. I honestly don't know if that's good or not, but it doesn't sound bad to me. If I get chance I'll test mine this weekend and see how it compares to see if this is the way it is, or whether yours is slow for some reason. Just to clarify you're shooting x-fine jpeg to both cards? Also, what are the write speeds of the cards you have, sony do a couple and one has much faster write speeds than the other?
That’s a good point, if there’s loads of processing on the jpegs such as DRO, HDR etc etc then that could slow it down.
No problem, I’ll see if I can do it today. I’ll also try with DRO on and off.For motorsports I tend not to shoot as much, depending on the event, and I've never previously hit the buffer. But a track day is somewhat different as you're not aiming to sell to the media but to the people taking part, and in many ways its more about quantity than quality, people are always looking for a deal and best perceived value. But I have a quick workflow so it's not too bad. I also used to use Nikons which had a limit of 200jpegs in the buffer and I never once hit that in the 6 years of using them, and that was with SD cards and CFe.
If you didn't mind trying yours out that would be fantastic, thank you. I'm shooting x-fine jpeg to just 1 card at a time. The cards are a 64GB Sony Tough G 300/299 and a 128GB Lexar 2000x 300MB/s. I've tested both cards in my laptop with Crystaldiskmark and both get around 280MB/s read and 260MB/s write.
I sent mine back on thursday so it will likely end up on ebay this weekend. Not that I would recommend it.The 35-150 is out of stock but good to know the site and keep an eye on it
May I ask why?This lot will be in the sales section soon - as and when I get the time
Sony a7Riv body Boxed in great condition with 4 x Sony batteries charger leads etc ? actuations only 15, 010 to date
Sony 200-600mm lens with spare black lens hood - Case - boxed +( small scuff on the original foot) otherwise mint
Black Arca foot for 200-600mm
Sony 28-70mm FE kit lens- no box but never used
Sony 35mm f1.8 FE lens boxed and NEVER used so as new
Sigma 70mm f2.8 ART Macro lens - no box but mint used 3 times indoors
Godox 350S Flash Boxed used a few times therefor mint- comes with filters etc
moving to a different system- Maybe - or maybe just giving upMay I ask why?
Please don't give upmoving to a different system- Maybe - or maybe just giving up
How come?I sent mine back on thursday so it will likely end up on ebay this weekend. Not that I would recommend it.
It was very soft until F4 and had the worst distortion I've seen. Even after correction it was bad and it also left bright spots in the corners like blown out highlights.How come?
Could it have been a bad copy?It was very soft until F4 and had the worst distortion I've seen. Even after correction it was bad and it also left bright spots in the corners like blown out highlights.
So I’ve just tested mine. Having DRO on/off didn’t appear to make a difference, LEXAR 2000x took 2:35 to clear a buffer of 414-420 shots JPEG extra fine writing to both cards. Writing to one card saved approx 5s. The Manfrotto cards cleared the buffer about 2s faster.For motorsports I tend not to shoot as much, depending on the event, and I've never previously hit the buffer. But a track day is somewhat different as you're not aiming to sell to the media but to the people taking part, and in many ways its more about quantity than quality, people are always looking for a deal and best perceived value. But I have a quick workflow so it's not too bad. I also used to use Nikons which had a limit of 200jpegs in the buffer and I never once hit that in the 6 years of using them, and that was with SD cards and CFe.
If you didn't mind trying yours out that would be fantastic, thank you. I'm shooting x-fine jpeg to just 1 card at a time. The cards are a 64GB Sony Tough G 300/299 and a 128GB Lexar 2000x 300MB/s. I've tested both cards in my laptop with Crystaldiskmark and both get around 280MB/s read and 260MB/s write.
Pass but I’m sure time will tell once more people start receiving them. Shame but I’ll hang back before buying another one.Could it have been a bad copy?
I had a mad thought today.
If I got a 24-70mm f2.8 II I could just have that and a fast prime. That'd do. Just two lenses.
24-70 II, 70-200 II and PureRAW
Of course if we were talking primes.. 50 1.2
I’ve noticed that the GM primes don’t have a lock for the aperture ring, seems an odd omission, a bit like the lack of zoom lock on the teles. Does it cause an issue with accidental aperture selection?
Possibly, although I didn’t think aperture locks were a new thing?What came first.. the GM Primes or the idea to add an Iris lock.... first I'd seen of it was the 70-200 II
doesn't seem like an odd omission, but a new development - maybe I missed something
I don't think I'll be alone in saying that it'd be a bloody shame if you do. But you have your reasons mate. Do what is right for you.I thinks it's on the cards Mike
I had a mad thought today.
If I got a 24-70mm f2.8 II I could just have that and a fast prime. That'd do. Just two lenses.
I thinks it's on the cards Mike
I boxed the 20G and put it in the cupboard so I keep forgetting it's still up for sale
If I'm with the other half, the kids, the dog then I'll go 35GM. On my own the Voigtlander 40/1.2 (I can't sell it!) as i'll have time & it's easier to MF ie woodland, etc
I'll pair that with the Tamron 70-180/2.8 which I may well love more than the 35mm! Good for landscapes, great for woodlands, great for panoramics!
The 24GM is really just an astro/night sky lens. I'll sometimes take it out I daylight hours but it depends where & what really.
So yeah, I guess I'm at 4 too but the 35GM/CV40 I do swap out for each other so I call it 3!
I can't seem to let go of nice manual lenses at the moment and of the three Voigtlanders I have I use the 35mm f1.4 the most because although it's by far the least good with poor corners and funky bokeh but it's very compact and light whereas I find the 40mm a bit heavy, the 50mm f2 being somewhere in the middle.
Actually after I'd made that list I remembered the 24mm f2.8 G so I'm at 5 now.
24-70mm f2.8.
20mm f1.8.
24mm f2.8.
35mm f2.8.
V. 35mm f1.4.
I’ve noticed that the GM primes don’t have a lock for the aperture ring, seems an odd omission, a bit like the lack of zoom lock on the teles. Does it cause an issue with accidental aperture selection?
I boxed the 20G and put it in the cupboard so I keep forgetting it's still up for sale
If I'm with the other half, the kids, the dog then I'll go 35GM. On my own the Voigtlander 40/1.2 (I can't sell it!) as i'll have time & it's easier to MF ie woodland, etc
I'll pair that with the Tamron 70-180/2.8 which I may well love more than the 35mm! Good for landscapes, great for woodlands, great for panoramics!
The 24GM is really just an astro/night sky lens. I'll sometimes take it out I daylight hours but it depends where & what really.
So yeah, I guess I'm at 4 too but the 35GM/CV40 I do swap out for each other so I call it 3!
I can't seem to let go of nice manual lenses at the moment and of the three Voigtlanders I have I use the 35mm f1.4 the most because although it's by far the least good with poor corners and funky bokeh but it's very compact and light whereas I find the 40mm a bit heavy, the 50mm f2 being somewhere in the middle.
Actually after I'd made that list I remembered the 24mm f2.8 G so I'm at 5 now.
24-70mm f2.8.
20mm f1.8.
24mm f2.8.
35mm f2.8.
V. 35mm f1.4.
4 lenses.
We have
Sony 14mm GM
Sony 24mm GM
Sony 35mm GM
Sony 50mm GM
Sony 85mm GM
Sony 135mm GM
Sony 55mm
Sony 90mm
Tamron 17-28mm
Tamron 28-75mm
Tamron 70-180mm Only got one of these as we had a little bit of extra money to burn before the end of the tax year and couldn't think of anything to buy.
So that leaves us with 11.
Until recently we also had a Sony 35 f/1.8 and an 85 f/1.8 that has now been handed down to our eldest. If I add on her lenses which are really mine anyway. We also have a Samyang 18mm, 45mm and a 75mm. She also had a kit lens as well.
So that would put us on 17.