I can't see it being an issue unless the sun shines through the lens. If I ever build an office in teh garden I will probably do the same. I lost a lens cap on Sunday. An old Nikon one will do the trick while I buy a knock off Sony oneNumpty question of th day, is there any harm is leaving your camera on for extended periods doing nothing? We've just bought a new bird feeder and I thought I could leave my camera set up on a tripod and use the Sony Imaging Edge app to take the photos, this could mean the camera being sat there for over an hour doing nothing.
Oh and whilst talking of being a numpty, on my last two outings I've managed to lose my peak design slide, and my Firecrest 77mm ND filter
ThanksI can't see it being an issue unless the sun shines through the lens. If I ever build an office in teh garden I will probably do the same. I lost a lens cap on Sunday. An old Nikon one will do the trick while I buy a knock off Sony one
I’ve a K&F variable Toby. Never noticed any colour shift. Used it quite a bit with 35&50 GM wide open.As I’m looking to replace my ND filter that I lost I’ve stumbled across variable ones. I’ve always given them a wide berth in the past but I was surprised to see some of the more expensive ones get 4.6/5 with over 1000 reviews.
Are they genuinely good enough these days or will they degrade IQ more than a standard ND?
I got an Urth ND 100mm filter and was really impressed. Miles better than a big stopperAs I’m looking to replace my ND filter that I lost I’ve stumbled across variable ones. I’ve always given them a wide berth in the past but I was surprised to see some of the more expensive ones get 4.6/5 with over 1000 reviews.
Are they genuinely good enough these days or will they degrade IQ more than a standard ND?
Thanks, what about reduction in sharpness?I’ve a K&F variable Toby. Never noticed any colour shift. Used it quite a bit with 35&50 GM wide open.
Is that a variable?I got an Urth ND 100mm filter and was really impressed. Miles better than a big stopper
I can't see it being an issue. I've run cameras for 10-12 hours in timelapse mode and recorded video for three to four hours without issue, in your case the fact the camera will be mostly idling means I wouldn't expect it to do any harm. I'm sure I've had cameras on for an hour or more when walking about taking shots which you may have done as well. I'd be concerned about causing harm if you were doing something that would be pushing the camera hard for an hour continuously like sustained high speed bursts. With the 1in stacked sensors I was always a bit iffy about doing sustained high framerate shooting with them because they'd get extremely hot and the battery would deplete alarmingly quickly.Numpty question of th day, is there any harm is leaving your camera on for extended periods doing nothing? We've just bought a new bird feeder and I thought I could leave my camera set up on a tripod and use the Sony Imaging Edge app to take the photos, this could mean the camera being sat there for over an hour doing nothing.
Oh and whilst talking of being a numpty, on my last two outings I've managed to lose my peak design slide, and my Firecrest 77mm ND filter
As I’m looking to replace my ND filter that I lost I’ve stumbled across variable ones. I’ve always given them a wide berth in the past but I was surprised to see some of the more expensive ones get 4.6/5 with over 1000 reviews.
Are they genuinely good enough these days or will they degrade IQ more than a standard ND?
Didn’t notice any reduction at all.Thanks, what about reduction in sharpness?
Is that a variable?
Variable N.D’s are for video not photoAs I’m looking to replace my ND filter that I lost I’ve stumbled across variable ones. I’ve always given them a wide berth in the past but I was surprised to see some of the more expensive ones get 4.6/5 with over 1000 reviews.
Are they genuinely good enough these days or will they degrade IQ more than a standard ND?
Variable N.D’s are for video not photo
Oh, what difference does it make?Variable N.D’s are for video not photo
Oh, what difference does it make?
That's why I was asking, apparently some of them don't suck for photo and you don't get the dreaded 'X' at the extreme ends of the filter. I don't think @trevorbray or @nandbytes shoot video?Have no idea I don’t shoot video.
For photo though variables are best avoided as image quality sucks.
I've been looking at the K&F and some reviews are saying that the front of the filter is wider than the rear meaning that you can't attach a lens hood, have you run into this issue?I’ve a K&F variable Toby. Never noticed any colour shift. Used it quite a bit with 35&50 GM wide open.
That's why I was asking, apparently some of them don't suck for photo and you don't get the dreaded 'X' at the extreme ends of the filter. I don't think @trevorbray or @nandbytes shoot video?
Thanks very much. I’m not actually looking at that filter tbh, I don’t want one with built in polariser or as many stops as that. It’s for motorsport so a 2-4 stop should suffice.you will get the dreaded "X" with almost all variable NDs its a matter of "finding" it.
if you shoot a 10mm lens on FF at f11 with variable ND turned to 10+stops, you will come across is very quickly.
Haida got around this by making two variable ND filters one for 2-5 stops and one for 6-10stops (or something like that).
the "X" is more of a problem with wider angles and smaller apertures. If you are using it so that you can shoot that f1.2-1.4 with your 50mm its less of a problem. somewhere in between for a 35mm lens.
if you want I can test it with my revoring and let you know.
that's like saying you want get into water but don't want to get wetThanks very much. I’m not actually looking at that filter tbh, I don’t want one with built in polariser
doesn't necessarily hurt if you have more stops in that case especially if you are getting at a good price and you are only using it at 2-4 stops range.or as many stops as that. It’s for motorsport so a 2-4 stop should suffice.
Yeah, but I mean I don’t want one with a specific polariser like that does. Also, it looks like you won’t be able to mount a lens hood with the REVORING. Are Haida a decent brand?that's like saying you want get into water but don't want to get wet
variable ND's are made using CPLs basically whether you like it or not.
doesn't necessarily hurt if you have more stops in that case especially if you are getting at a good price and you are only using it at 2-4 stops range.
But the haida 2-5 stops is good option in that case
I have a Haida CPL and a 10 stop found them to be decent.Yeah, but I mean I don’t want one with a specific polariser like that does. Also, it looks like you won’t be able to mount a lens hood with the REVORING. Are Haida a decent brand?
Yep. Couldn’t fit a hood.I've been looking at the K&F and some reviews are saying that the front of the filter is wider than the rear meaning that you can't attach a lens hood, have you run into this issue?
Yeah, but I mean I don’t want one with a specific polariser like that does. Also, it looks like you won’t be able to mount a lens hood with the REVORING. Are Haida a decent brand?
I'm tempted by the Sony 50mm f2.5.
I've always told myself buying one doesn't make sense as I have the 35mm f2.8 and that's small too. I also have the Sony 55 and 35mm f1.8's and two Voigtlander 50's and the TTArtisan f2. The 50mm f2.5 would give me a small AF 50mm but maybe it's too close to the old 35mm f2.8.
Hmmmm.
I've hovered over the buy button but so far I've resisted.
My small go bag usually has the 24mm f2.8 the 40mm f2.5 and sometimes the 55mm f1.8.
You won't agree with what I'd do
Sell all the AF lenses and buy the 40G Or maybe keep the 35/1.8 for lower light on the A7.....
Nice. I have the 24mm f2.8 G and the 55mm.
As you know I had the Voigtlander 40mm f1.2 but now have the 35 and 50mm versions.
I don't think 40mm is a good fit for me now and it is of course even closer to the 35mm f2.8 I have so buying one maybe makes even less sense than buying the 50mm. The different build of the G lenses and their aperture rings compared the old 35mm f2.8 aren't big enough reasons for me in themselves. Another thing is that every time I use a 55mm lens I'm a bit irritated that it's 55 and not 50mm so the 50mm G could potentially replace the ocd triggering as it's ever so slightly tighter/longer than 50mm 55mm f1.8.
40mm is where I started (actually with 43mm) but these days after spending so much time with 35, 40, 50 and 55mm lenses of those I think 35 feels better for me as a usual first option with occasional uses for a 50/55mm rather than the piggy in the middle 40mm which may be ocd triggeringly close to 35mm and not able to replace a 50mm when 50mm is preferrable to 35 or 40mm. Of course I'd adjust in time though.
Decisions.
Mainly though this is just gas as I haven't bought anything for weeks
I think going out with 35mm AND 50mm is a bit close -
I noticed a issue on my viltrox 16mm f1.8, when I set the aperture ring to f16 the camera is reading it as f18. I need to ever so slightly move off f16 to make it pick up f16 again.
Looks like the aperture ring is a little off for some reason. but the odd thing is its only off at this particular setting. It fine at all other aperture settings
I didn't find this issue till yesterday since I almost never shoot past f11 otherwise would have sent it back.
Still under warranty with LCE.... I guess its worth giving them a shout.
Edit:
Tried it with clickless aperture, so it does hit f16 ever so slightly before the f16 marking and ever so slightly after f16 marking it moves very quickly to f18 (for other f-stop points you need to move the ring over half way between the two f-stop points before it pickup the next setting)
hmmm.... very odd that its like this only around f16