The universal trigger interface (The little box)

Kaouthia said:
That's bare minimum components and code (1 sensor being continually monitored and nothing else going on in the loop). I'm trying to figuring out building a "wall" of 6 or 8 laser triggers at the moment and have it go off when any one of them is tripped for a particular project as the subject could come across the beams at any point in a given height range.

Looking at multiplexers and PISO shift registers like the 165, 4051 and 4067.

How quick it'll be to respond then I don't know, but will be testing. Whether I used a multiplexer or went straight into the Arduino's pins, I don't think it wouldn matter, I'd still have to check each of the pins one at a time. It'd slow detection speed down by 1/6th or 1/8th (depending on how many sensors I hooked up). But, that may still be fast enough. Only one way to find out. :)
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Whilst I'll keep out of the real technical stuff - surely a PIR would be more affective than a wall of laser detectors ? Assuming the subject is large enough to trip one ?

Watching the build with great interest :)
 
DrRusty said:
Whilst I'll keep out of the real technical stuff - surely a PIR would be more affective than a wall of laser detectors ? Assuming the subject is large enough to trip one ?
Click to expand...

I don't think it'd be precise enough. Assuming the subject is large enough for the PIR to detect, it wouldn't necessarily know that it's in the particular spot that it needs to be in when the camera or flashes go off.

It'd see that something were moving, it may even detect that the subject is 3ft, 4ft, 5ft away from the PIR, but it wouldn't necessarily know that it's 3ft, 4ft or 5ft away dead ahead, or off to the side (ending up with them being out of focus).

With the wall of lasers, I can set it up exactly parallel my focal plane at whatever distance I've focussed to, and no matter where it crosses, I know it's going to be sharp and in focus.
 
Anyone know how to make Eagle put the pads for a component on both sides? Or to put them on the reverse? I have some connectors that need to be of the bottom of the PCB ie the LCD connector and the Mega connectors.
 
cowasaki said:
Anyone know how to make Eagle put the pads for a component on both sides? Or to put them on the reverse? I have some connectors that need to be of the bottom of the PCB ie the LCD connector and the Mega connectors.
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you probably don't want to hear this, but it usually does put them on both sides?!?

alternatively, go to the layers icon and turn off the top layer, then you can work on the bottom layer
 
interesting project. Good to see an Intervalometer included. I wish more camera manufacturers would include this simple facility. It opens up all sorts of interesting possibilities. I purchased a cheap Nikon pas coolpix s200 just for that facility.

The possibility of controlling cameras remotely for wildlife capture is appealing whether automatically or manually.

Sadly ,as a novice its not likely to be any help to me unfortunately as I'm not likely to 'progress ' beyond a Bridge for the forseeable future, plus I need something very light and versatile to carry long distances over rough terrain that has everything included in one lens ie HS20(y)
good luck
 
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mmcp42 said:
you probably don't want to hear this, but it usually does put them on both sides?!?

alternatively, go to the layers icon and turn off the top layer, then you can work on the bottom layer
Click to expand...

Thanks but I'm hopefully having the board made for me this week so I need to make sure that the LCD and arduino connector pads are on the upper face of the board whilst all the other pads are on the bottom (both would be fine too). I can't work out how to do that and to know that it is definitely done! (like VIAs have a pad on each side)
 
like I said - it's always put pads top and bottom for me
wonder how you managed to get them just on one side?
 
mmcp42 said:
like I said - it's always put pads top and bottom for me
wonder how you managed to get them just on one side?
Click to expand...

I don't know that I have! I just clicked on the "PAD" layer and it shows all the pads and assumed it would only do them on the normal solder side. Will have to print each side. Steep learning curve! Any way of making connections different colours in the schematic so I can see GND and 5V?
 
in the free version you're only allowed two layers
when you add a wire, there is a drop down to select the layer
each layer is then a different colour

there is lots of data there (but not much information :( )

I can now see what fooled me into thinking the pads were both sides
I use run pcb-gcode to generate milling data
the pads appear top and bottom
perhaps the script is cleverer than I thought (ok cleverer than me!)
 
you can, of course make gnd and +5 different widths

and if you mean "can I take a quick look" just use the show icon
 
sorted it
use the mirror command
right click the component - select mirror - and Bob marries your mother's sister

and you can see which are top and bottom use tplace and bplace layers!

and here is the manual
 
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mmcp42 said:
you can, of course make gnd and +5 different widths

and if you mean "can I take a quick look" just use the show icon
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OOH "show" icon...... That's handy :)

Straight GND and 5V in black and red would have been handy. Can you use the earth and +5V symbols? Also any idea how the BUS feature works, would be handy to use it to connect D0-D7 from one place to another....
 
Well thanks to Bill I have now sent the prototype boards off to be made, these are the main electronics, the high power board and also a special board designed to hook up to the main board and test it. This will allow accurate testing of delays etc and allow calibration.
 
I've got your email, we are cleaning out the etch tank at the moment, but hopefully I'll get those done tomorrow afternoon for you.
 
puggie said:
I've got your email, we are cleaning out the etch tank at the moment, but hopefully I'll get those done tomorrow afternoon for you.
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You are a star.....

Do you understand my description of the upside/downside issue ?
 
I have decided to build 2 versions to sell fully complete, the portable and desktop versions. The desktop version will be available in 2 minor variations, one in a desktop case and the other in a pretty good version of a peli case (maybe +£20-30).

If people are interested I might well sell kits at various levels of completeness ie PCB only, PCB + components (minus arduino), PCB + all components and PCB fully built with or without arduino.......

The software, I may well make available so that people can effectively re-write sections for their own use. I will write a detailed programmers/hackers reference manual.

Having looked at all the options I am sticking with the MEGA. I can get a package of parts from China including the arduino, LCD, buzzer, most of the connectors, IR transmitter and receiver and a few more bits at a good price. I could save maybe £10 or possibly £15 using the smaller 328 board BUT it makes it more complicated for users who are writing their own software and the MEGA arduinos have a lot more RAM and EEPROM space.

Anyone wanting arduino bits let me know and I might well stick an advert in the for sale section. I have some SD card reader/writers, motors, motor controllers, etc etc......
 
cowasaki said:
If people are interested I might well sell kits at various levels of completeness ie PCB only, PCB + components (minus arduino), PCB + all components and PCB fully built with or without arduino.......
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Have you built this as a shield? Integrating the ATMega328 into your design only needs a crystal, a couple of resistors and a capacitor. You don't need all the extra crap that's on the Arduino boards for a final product - just send out the appropriate pins where they need to go, the 6 pin header for an ftdi cable for reprogramming, and you're good to go.

Then it can be whatever shape/case you want, and the difference between having it or not having it is only about a fiver.
 
Kaouthia said:
Have you built this as a shield? Integrating the ATMega328 into your design only needs a crystal, a couple of resistors and a capacitor. You don't need all the extra crap that's on the Arduino boards for a final product - just send out the appropriate pins where they need to go, the 6 pin header for an ftdi cable for reprogramming, and you're good to go.

Then it can be whatever shape/case you want, and the difference between having it or not having it is only about a fiver.
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I can get the 328s for about £4 but then the extra components and socket etc pushes it up to about £10 (including crystal, USB socket, programming header, voltage reg and a USB lead)... I can get an entire 1280 MEGA fully assembled for about £20 (this is approximate as I pay more than that but that includes GLCD and a load of other bits and pieces......

Like I said £10 maybe £15 difference and it is simpler and easier for the end user.

The PORTABLE version is going to use a 16 x 2 display, 328 and a menu system based around a couple of pots for input. This version will be on a single PCB which will include the 328. It will run off a 9V battery and the USB port will be a mini USB inside the battery compartment. A pot that spins forever which I can use as the "amount" input and then a normal pot which turns 300 degrees. As you turn it the menu option changes every x degrees and then it displays the value which you can increase or decrease with the other pot. There will also be a few buttons.
 
Yeah, it bumps it up, but not even close to a tenner.

ATMega328P - 4 quid
2 resistors - 2p
1 capacitor - 2p
6 pin header - 5p
16Mhz Crystal - 20p
USB Mini Type B - 60p

It's only bumped the cost up just under a fiver (including your 4 quid chip), and those prices are for individual purchases. If you bought 50 or 100 at a time, those prices are ridiculously cheap.

That's it. Wouldn't you have the voltage regulator anyway for the other parts? needing 5v (most PSUs that I've seen go 3v, 4.5v, 6v, 7.5v, 9v - so you'd need some kind of power regulation to get exactly 5v to ICs).

Even if you were adding your own voltage regulator, L7805CV are only 28p, and a couple of capacitors are only about 6p each. Again, those are prices for buying singles (or 2 in the case of the caps).

The extra components only come up to £1.31 inc vat + the cost of the ATMega328.

Still well under a tenner total. :)

But, even as a shield (is it a shield form factor? or a custom dimension board with the pins in the appropriate places to slot into an Arduino with the board overhanging on the sides? Will the pins that go into the Arduino be the long pins with extra headers on top so we can slot more things into the free pins?) it's still useful and we could put them in our own enclosures. :)
 
cowasaki said:
I have decided to build 2 versions to sell fully complete, the portable and desktop versions. The desktop version will be available in 2 minor variations, one in a desktop case and the other in a pretty good version of a peli case (maybe +£20-30).

<snip>
Click to expand...

I'm most likely to be interested in the portable version, but I wonder how rugged a case that would be and what sort of prices you're ending up with. The portable would seem like the ideal model, as it opens up opportunity to use it outdoors and on remote locations. Any chance of a portable rugged / Peli cased version?
 
Wail said:
I'm most likely to be interested in the portable version, but I wonder how rugged a case that would be and what sort of prices you're ending up with. The portable would seem like the ideal model, as it opens up opportunity to use it outdoors and on remote locations. Any chance of a portable rugged / Peli cased version?
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I'll build you one in whatever you like :)
 
Kaouthia said:
Yeah, it bumps it up, but not even close to a tenner.

ATMega328P - 4 quid
2 resistors - 2p
1 capacitor - 2p
6 pin header - 5p
16Mhz Crystal - 20p
USB Mini Type B - 60p

It's only bumped the cost up just under a fiver (including your 4 quid chip), and those prices are for individual purchases. If you bought 50 or 100 at a time, those prices are ridiculously cheap.

That's it. Wouldn't you have the voltage regulator anyway for the other parts? needing 5v (most PSUs that I've seen go 3v, 4.5v, 6v, 7.5v, 9v - so you'd need some kind of power regulation to get exactly 5v to ICs).

Even if you were adding your own voltage regulator, L7805CV are only 28p, and a couple of capacitors are only about 6p each. Again, those are prices for buying singles (or 2 in the case of the caps).

The extra components only come up to £1.31 inc vat + the cost of the ATMega328.

Still well under a tenner total. :)

But, even as a shield (is it a shield form factor? or a custom dimension board with the pins in the appropriate places to slot into an Arduino with the board overhanging on the sides? Will the pins that go into the Arduino be the long pins with extra headers on top so we can slot more things into the free pins?) it's still useful and we could put them in our own enclosures. :)
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The MEGAs cost about £20 approx when you take everything else into account so like I said it falls within the £10-15 range. The universal trigger main board (at the moment) is going to be 1280 based (or 2560 based if people want to pay approx a £10 surcharge). I am looking to use through pin connectors so people can use the other pins. At the moment I am using mainly the MEGA i/o pins so most of the pins that you would have on a 528 are still free inc all of the analogue ones. The board is much larger than the arduino mega board and is currently about 4x4 inches plus the HP board and the ports board (although an option is to just use them as through hole connectors wired to the board. What I would like to do is make a single board which is about 8 x 5 inches with the ports on it. That alas would mean changing software or paying for Eagle.
 
cowasaki said:
I'll build you one in whatever you like :)
Click to expand...

(y)

I believe Portable & Rugged would be the practical option :shrug: :)
 
Anyone know how to set the default track width, via size and via drill diameters in Eagle? Can't work it out and need to sort it soon so the prototypes can be made !
 
cowasaki said:
Louis Vuitton version anyone :p
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:LOL::LOL::LOL:

I'm in bed with a horrid pancreas attack and read this! You're making in crawl in pain here ... have you been talking to my Ms.?
 
Wail said:
:LOL::LOL::LOL:

I'm in bed with a horrid pancreas attack and read this! You're making in crawl in pain here ... have you been talking to my Ms.?
Click to expand...

Ouch! I hope your feeling better soon.
 
cowasaki said:
Anyone know how to set the default track width, via size and via drill diameters in Eagle? Can't work it out and need to sort it soon so the prototypes can be made !
Click to expand...

take a look at page 83 of the manual
 where it talks about Eagle.scr file
got lots of configuration info in there
 
don't know if you've seen this guy (from the Arduino forum)
good deal (allegedly) on PCB manufacture
 
mmcp42 said:
don't know if you've seen this guy (from the Arduino forum)
good deal (allegedly) on PCB manufacture
Click to expand...

I'll check him out. I am buying my own kit tomorrow to make circuit boards, damned expensive to get started.
 
If that type of service is of interest, google around a bit. When I was researching getting some PCBs done, I found several similar services, some cost much different amounts from others, and had different times before panels got full. That one doesn't see, too bad, but certainly isn't the cheapest.
 
Well I've been at it with both the hardware and software today. I am half way through producing a cased final spec beam module and I've made a couple of minor changes to the main board (after the previous spec went off for production - I've added a couple of resistors to the trigger lines to pull down the positive trigger and pull up the negative trigger in order to avoid false triggers) I can manually fit these to the PCB later but they will be on the production version. (Trigger one is sensed by the line being taken low ie grounded whilst trigger two is sensed by the line being pulled high ie connected to 5V - this just makes it easier for people to design add ons later)

Software wise, I've now modified the code to save all the variables to the EEPROM within the machine which means that even if you unplug it and remove the batteries it will remember your settings.

I've also managed to get the timings for the IR remotes on Nikon, Canon, Sony, Olympus & Minolta cameras so I have added this to the program. There will also be the option to record the relevant codes straight from your remote.

I've added a complete test menu which allows you to test everything and make sure all your connections are right.

Lastly I have priced up the relays for the high power section (remember ALL outputs use opto-couples including the relays which use BOTH). Based on the price that I can buy a 4 relay board fully assembled in China compared with the price of the relays and bare board here it will cost me £1.50 extra (and be less work) to change the spec again and have two HP flash ports plus two extra relay ports. These could be used to turn on your studio lights at the right times to fit in with a time lapse program. The existing 2 opto-couples which were used in the relay circuit will now be connected to the main expansion port and give an extra 2 low power switches too! (the board from China is fully assembled and includes it's own optocouples and relays.

So the current spec for the universal trigger looks like this:

powered from USB port using iPhone style mains to USB adapter or computer - this allows the use of a car accessory to USB adapter too (not included) or 9V battery.

IR remote control (included)

2 x LP ports for radio remote ouput etc (plus 2 more LP ports in exp port)
2 x HP ports (plus 2 more HP ports for lighting - I hope)
PS2 keyboard port
2 x Camera control ports (using RF603 style 2.5mm stereo jacks)
1 x radio remote INPUT

Beam breaker trigger - for water droplet style images
Sound trigger - for balloon/smashed glass type images
Alarm system trigger - for PIRs, proximity sensors, pressure pads etc
Laser trigger
++++ triggers

Software will be user upgradeable but will include...

Time lapse (with a real time clock)
External trigger control of the camera with separate timings for camera and flash
Both the above with repeats at set intervals and set number of times.
Remote control using the IR controller or PS2 keyboard.

There are lots of things that you could also use it for eg controlling an old flash system using a modern RF602/3 style controller - plug the controller into the universal trigger and the flash into the HP flash ports.

Because of the way that it has been designed software changes will allow solenoids etc to be used to time events etc etc etc
 
these people claim to have free PCB design software!

not tried it, and it is PC based, but the price looks about right (y)

ok tried it now
it's a bit klunky compared to EAGLE, but let me work on a board 250mm by 200mm (got bored after that)
 
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cowasaki said:
Well I've been at it with both the hardware and software today. I am half way through producing a cased final spec beam module and I've made a couple of minor changes to the main board (after the previous spec went off for production - I've added a couple of resistors to the trigger lines to pull down the positive trigger and pull up the negative trigger in order to avoid false triggers) I can manually fit these to the PCB later but they will be on the production version. (Trigger one is sensed by the line being taken low ie grounded whilst trigger two is sensed by the line being pulled high ie connected to 5V - this just makes it easier for people to design add ons later)
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This is looking great, hadnt thought about the using an rf602 trigger. Thinking about internalising one of those in my system!

By the way you might not need some of those extra resistors, the atmel 328 (maybe the atmel your using has the same feature?) has internal pullups on all digital pins, which can be activated by writing the pin high. No pull downs though im afraid :)
 
ST8 said:
This is looking great, hadnt thought about the using an rf602 trigger. Thinking about internalising one of those in my system!

By the way you might not need some of those extra resistors, the atmel 328 (maybe the atmel your using has the same feature?) has internal pullups on all digital pins, which can be activated by writing the pin high. No pull downs though im afraid :)
Click to expand...

I will look at that. I was using two spare connections on a resistor array so it wasn't an issue but if I don't need them then all the better.

I have two RF602s on my bench. If you disassemble them, they run off the 3.3v line plus can switch a 5V using their output. Also if you chop off the 4 way DIL switch for the ID you can connect the 4 connections left over to the arduino and change channel using the arduino :)
 
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