Thinking of going full frame...

DanJenks

DanJenks

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Daniel
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Afternoon everyone

Firstly, I apologies if there is already a post on this. I thought I remembered seeing a pinned post about it previously but I cannot find it anywhere! Maybe I was imagining it...

Anyway, I've been working on my photography for a few years now, mainly automotive work for magazines. My bodies are low spec, quite old and although great for when I was starting out I feel it's now time to upgrade.

I'm thinking of going full frame however I'm still a little confused about where to start in deciding what to choose and what I need to consider when choosing.

One the main question I have is how I check if my lenses are compatible with a full frame camera? I currently have:
- Nikon 35mm f/1.8
- Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6
- Tamron SP AF 70-300 F/4-5.6 Di VC USD

The second question I have is does anyone have any suggestions on good "starter" full frame Nikon camera? I am by no means a professional so I am not looking for anything within that league. Just something newer and better than I currently have.

Sorry for the long post!
Kind regards,
Dan
 
The Sigma is meant for APS bodies, but it will still work on a full frame camera in DX mode and above ~16mm in FF.

I would probably recommend a used D700 or D750 depending on budget. But there are some advantages to APS bodies and I think you should consider if FF is really going to benefit you.
 
I would second the D700 as a way to dip your toes into FF to see if its what you want at not too much money.
 
dont discount the d610, still a very good camera
 
DanJenks said:
Afternoon everyone

Firstly, I apologies if there is already a post on this. I thought I remembered seeing a pinned post about it previously but I cannot find it anywhere! Maybe I was imagining it...

Anyway, I've been working on my photography for a few years now, mainly automotive work for magazines. My bodies are low spec, quite old and although great for when I was starting out I feel it's now time to upgrade.

I'm thinking of going full frame however I'm still a little confused about where to start in deciding what to choose and what I need to consider when choosing.

One the main question I have is how I check if my lenses are compatible with a full frame camera? I currently have:
- Nikon 35mm f/1.8
- Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6
- Tamron SP AF 70-300 F/4-5.6 Di VC USD

The second question I have is does anyone have any suggestions on good "starter" full frame Nikon camera? I am by no means a professional so I am not looking for anything within that league. Just something newer and better than I currently have.

Sorry for the long post!
Kind regards,
Dan
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The Sigma is for APS-C/Crop bodies but as mentioned will work on FF if you use it in DX mode. However, resolution will drop so for example a 24mp FF camera is 'only' 10mp in DX mode. The Tamron is a FF lens. Depending on the Nikon lens it could be either or as they do two, an FX one and a DX one. If it's marked as DX then it's for crop bodies the same as the sigma. Be aware that the angle of view of your Tamron lens will be different on FF than crop body.

As been questioned already, what are you wanting from the upgrade? The outright difference in IQ between crop and FF isn't much these days. If you definitely want to go FF the recommendations above of the D700 or D750 would be my choice too.
 
sk66 said:
D6xx focus points are too concentrated IMO. But it's not a major issue if price is good enough.
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just had a quick flick though the ops images and i cant see this would be an issue at all. mind you i don't mind focus recompose at all and still enjoy 35mm film!
 
niko said:
just had a quick flick though the ops images and i cant see this would be an issue at all. mind you i don't mind focus recompose at all and still enjoy 35mm film!
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TBH for the price difference I'd choose the D750 over the D610 all day long. That being said it depends what bargains you can find of course (y)
 
sk66 said:
D6xx focus points are too concentrated IMO. But it's not a major issue if price is good enough.
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There is very little in it between the focus spread of Nikons 39 point system on the Df and the 51 point system on the D750. They're still very much in the middle of the frame. They're slightly wider on a D810 and D4 though.
 
One thing you haven't mentioned is why you want to go full frame.

If the answer (honestly) is, "because I want a sexier bit of kit that looks more pro and feels robust" then fine. No problems. At least you're being honest.

Otherwise, it's nigh on impossible to recommend something as we don't know why you want to upgrade to a new body and potentially have to replace a few - if not all - of your lenses. The 35mm and Sigma will both need to be used in FX only mode (so less benefit in switching bodies), not sure about the other one.

FWIW, I "upgraded" from a Pentax APS-C to a Nikon FF a year and a bit ago. I love my new camera and am delighted with the upgrade. Was it worth spending over £2.5k on new gear? Probably not, but I'm still pleased I did it. And if you think it's going to cost much less than £2k to get good new glass and a decent fairly modern FF body then make sure you've done your sums properly!
 
Just do it. Whether your reasons are good enough too, sod it!

D750 is a fine but of kit. If you like shooting with your 35mm, then get a 50mm 1.8g. By far my most used and favourite lens.
 
I would also recommend checking out a D700. Whilst 'only' 12mp the pixel size is huge and noise levels at high ISO's are excellent.

Another advantage of being 12mp is that the camera is very 'forgiving' with lenses - on the newer high megapixel cameras you really need top quality glass to get the most from them.

Oh ...... it is definitely built to last!
 
Look no further than a little used Nikon D800, the amount one can crop is staggering with the 36mp sensor without quality loss. Don't make the usual mistake of getting a camera near the bottom price and then find it doesn't do everything you want. Why I suggest the D800 is you can us it just on auto or start using the features available in it without having to go buy a better camera costing you money later on
 
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realspeed said:
Look no further than a little used Nikon D800, the amount one can crop is staggering with the 36mp sensor without quality loss. Don't make the usual mistake of getting a camera near the bottom price and then find it doesn't do everything you want. Why I suggest the D800 is you can us it just on auto or start using the features available in it without having to go buy a better camera costing you money later on
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I don't shoot Nikon but as far as I know, the D800 doesn't have an auto mode as it's aimed at people who know how to use it. Also, the OP has been using a DLSR already so using a FF body is exactly the same.
 
I recently made this jump to full frame. It was an eye opener in a number of ways. Had to invest in some more lenses as my regular glass all became a lot shorter and I have concluded my crop body is still going to be in regular use.

My reason for going full frame was primarily for model photography, studio and a lot of natural light shooting, I chose the best full frame body for my specific applications and not as simply a perceived upgrade as in a lot of ways it isn't.

Yes I did go for a body with in excess of 30mp resolution and some performance gains. I now use both bodies for shoots with a different lens on each and that works for me. I can switch to whichever will do a specific shot best without having to mess around and find the two cameras set up differently will cover almost everything I need.
 
stevelmx5 said:
I don't shoot Nikon but as far as I know, the D800 doesn't have an auto mode as it's aimed at people who know how to use it. Also, the OP has been using a DLSR already so using a FF body is exactly the same.
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The D8xx series including the D800 does have an auto mode called programmed Auto which is essentially a point and shoot mode.
 
stevelmx5 said:
Isn't that just Programme mode like other bodies that links aperture to shutter speed rather than a full automatic mode where the camera chooses everything?
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As far as I'm aware he only difference between program auto and full auto is that it allows you to change the settings after the camera has decided what's best, whereas you can't in full auto. As to whether you still have to choose the AF mode and metering mode I'm not sure as I've never used either. However, quickly looking at the manual would suggest not.
 
snerkler said:
As far as I'm aware he only difference between program auto and full auto is that it allows you to change the settings after the camera has decided what's best, whereas you can't in full auto. As to whether you still have to choose the AF mode and metering mode I'm not sure as I've never used either. However, quickly looking at the manual would suggest not.
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I've always seen Program mode as basically you choose either the aperture or the shutter speed and the camera automatically selects the other and they remain linked however you change it. Full auto is basically point and shoot with no control over any of the exposure triangle and seems like an odd suggestion to use on a professional body.

Anyway, moving on :0)
 
stevelmx5 said:
I've always seen Program mode as basically you choose either the aperture or the shutter speed and the camera automatically selects the other and they remain linked however you change it. Full auto is basically point and shoot with no control over any of the exposure triangle and seems like an odd suggestion to use on a professional body.

Anyway, moving on :0)
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Well I guess it could work like that as the camera lets you alter the settings once the camera has decided on the settings. However, you could consider it full auto if you left everything alone ;)
 
stevelmx5 said:
I've always seen Program mode as basically you choose either the aperture or the shutter speed and the camera automatically selects the other and they remain linked however you change it. Full auto is basically point and shoot with no control over any of the exposure triangle and seems like an odd suggestion to use on a professional body.

Anyway, moving on :0)
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you seem to be talking about aperture priority or shutter priority rather than full program unless i am misunderstanding you
 
niko said:
you seem to be talking about aperture priority or shutter priority rather than full program unless i am misunderstanding you
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I realise it's Rockwell so take it with a dose of sarcasm but he explains Pro(gram) mode halfway down

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d800/users-guide/controls-top.htm

"P: Professional (a.k.a. "program")

I always use Pro mode. In Pro mode, the camera picks the best combination of aperture and shutter speed all by itself. If I want a faster shutter speed or smaller aperture, I just flick the rear dial, and in that one flick I've set whatever new combination of aperture and shutter speed I need."
 
In Aperture priority you can only change aperture and the exposure meter picks the shutter speed. In Shutter priority you can only pick the shutter speed and the meter selects the aperture.

In Program mode you can change the aperture or shutter speed using two dials and the other is auto-metered.
 
stevelmx5 said:
I realise it's Rockwell so take it with a dose of sarcasm but he explains Pro(gram) mode halfway down

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/d800/users-guide/controls-top.htm

"P: Professional (a.k.a. "program")

I always use Pro mode. In Pro mode, the camera picks the best combination of aperture and shutter speed all by itself. If I want a faster shutter speed or smaller aperture, I just flick the rear dial, and in that one flick I've set whatever new combination of aperture and shutter speed I need."
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yep he says it controls both, where as you said you control one.
not that it really matters! take it easy
nik
 
niko said:
yep he says it controls both, where as you said you control one.
not that it really matters! take it easy
nik
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I think there's something getting lost in my explanation. My point was that in Program mode you can change EITHER the shutter speed OR the aperture (whilst still in the same mode) and the camera decides the other setting.

In Aperture or Shutter priority you can ONLY change ONE setting without switching modes to let you change the other.

Either way, all three modes require the photographer to select either the Aperture or Shutter speed so they're not full auto :0)
 
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stevelmx5 said:
Either way, all three modes require the photographer to select either the Aperture or Shutter speed so they're not full auto :0)
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But P mode doesn't, you just can if you want to, so left alone it's auto, at least in terms of exposure. If you start to change it it is now called flexible program which is different to program. Also it works differently to how you say, you cannot control aperture with one dial and shutter with the other. All you can change is aperture, so it's almost the same as aperture priority mode so I'm really struggling to see what the point of it is. Well I can kind of see it on the D8xx as it kind of gives you an auto mode, but on the D750 why bother when you have full auto already, and obviously aperture priority. I can't see in the manual that you can change shutter with the other dial in P mode, and I've just tried it on my D750. It's a really odd mode, I don't get it tbh.
 
snerkler said:
But P mode doesn't, you just can if you want to, so left alone it's auto, at least in terms of exposure. If you start to change it it is now called flexible program which is different to program. Also it works differently to how you say, you cannot control aperture with one dial and shutter with the other. All you can change is aperture, so it's almost the same as aperture priority mode so I'm really struggling to see what the point of it is. Well I can kind of see it on the D8xx as it kind of gives you an auto mode, but on the D750 why bother when you have full auto already, and obviously aperture priority. I can't see in the manual that you can change shutter with the other dial in P mode, and I've just tried it on my D750. It's a really odd mode, I don't get it tbh.
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That is odd. When I shot Canon I'm sure it let me change either and I've just tried my A6000 and it does too? Like you say, seems like a waste of time if it only lets you change the aperture.

Anyway, I've clogged the thread up too much now. My main point was that the OP appears to be happy using a DSLR so suggesting they buy a D800 and shoot it on Auto seemed like an odd suggestion.
 
stevelmx5 said:
...the D800 doesn't have an auto mode as it's aimed at people who know how to use it.
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Mode snob. :p

Sometimes Auto is really handy. But you have to know how to use it... ;)

Anyway, to the OP's' dilemma... A used D700 would be my recommended, cheapish, way in to Nikon full frame.
 
...and just to confuse things further...

Manual can be a kind of Auto mode too if you have Auto ISO turned on. Only you can control both aperature AND shutter speed and let the camera balance the exposure by adjusting the sensitivity...
 
Ed Sutton said:
Mode snob. :p

Sometimes Auto is really handy. But you have to know how to use it... ;)

Anyway, to the OP's' dilemma... A used D700 would be my recommended, cheapish, way in to Nikon full frame.
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I can't even begin to think why you'd ever use auto if you understand exposure, even for snap shots :confused:
 
Eloise said:
...and just to confuse things further...

Manual can be a kind of Auto mode too if you have Auto ISO turned on. Only you can control both aperature AND shutter speed and let the camera balance the exposure by adjusting the sensitivity...
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Very true, assuming you don't want any creative control over aperture or shutter speed of course. Most portraits aren't shot at F22 and in the same way, a lot of landscapes aren't shot at F1.4 but both could be exposed correctly through auto-ISO :0)
 
stevelmx5 said:
Very true, assuming you don't want any creative control over aperture or shutter speed of course. Most portraits aren't shot at F22 and in the same way, a lot of landscapes aren't shot at F1.4 but both could be exposed correctly through auto-ISO :0)
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I think you've misinterpreted how it works, or what he means. Manual gives you full creative control in that you choose both aperture and shutter speed, but you can then leave ISO on auto to have one less variable to change. Auto ISO is also very useful when you have a constantly changing scene. I use this setting for sports and wildlife. Set aperture to wide open on my 70-200mm or f8 on my 150-600mm, shutter speed to 1/1000, and let auto ISO ensure the exposure is generally always correct as I pan the camera around often from light to shade and vice versa.
 
Again though, that's not 'Full Auto' which was my point. If you pick up a point and shoot compact, you don't decide the aperture it's going to shoot at and then let it decide the rest.
 
stevelmx5 said:
Again though, that's not 'Full Auto' which was my point. If you pick up a point and shoot compact, you don't decide the aperture it's going to shoot at and then let it decide the rest.
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I think we all get that lol. Eloise just mentioned something else :p
 
snerkler said:
I think you've misinterpreted how it works, or what he means. Manual gives you full creative control in that you choose both aperture and shutter speed, but you can then leave ISO on auto to have one less variable to change. Auto ISO is also very useful when you have a constantly changing scene. I use this setting for sports and wildlife. Set aperture to wide open on my 70-200mm or f8 on my 150-600mm, shutter speed to 1/1000, and let auto ISO ensure the exposure is generally always correct as I pan the camera around often from light to shade and vice versa.
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He is a SHE ... but apart from that thats exactly what I mean ...

stevelmx5 said:
Yeah, we're kind of going round in circles :0). I get how manual works though, this is my latest kit..

View attachment 99701

;0)
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That doesn't have Auto-ISO though :)
 
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