Time to shoot in manual

JoeWhitley

JoeWhitley

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Joe
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Hello everyone,

I've been trying out the different settings and experimenting in manual on my camera - wow it's hard!

I was just wondering if someone could kindly answer a couple of questions?

Firstly, even after researching the different settings I'm struggling to figure out what they all mean and how they affect the shot.

The only three I think I know are:

Aperture - how much of the shot is in focus. The lower the number the closer the object must be
ISO - how much light is let in to the shot. The higher the number the brighter the shot
Shutter speed - how fast the camera takes the picture. The further left you scroll, the slower it is, and the slower it is the more you need a tripod

I'm not even certain these are right - are they?

The other ones are just a foreign language to me. I would really really appreciate it if someone could please explain in simple terms what the following settings are and how they affect the shot.

Exposure comp./AEB setting
Flash Exposure comp
Picture style
White balance
Auto lighting optimiser
Metering mode

Thanks a lot everyone - speak soon.

P.S. Do Aperture and Shutter speed affect light? I was experimenting last night and whenever I went for the full focus F22 aperture or the 1/4000 shutter speed, it was just a black screen. Granted, the light in my house at 2230 isn't great but when I lowered both settings it was fine.
 
JoeWhitley said:
Exposure comp./AEB setting
Flash Exposure comp
Picture style
White balance
Auto lighting optimiser
Metering mode

Thanks a lot everyone - speak soon.

P.S. Do Aperture and Shutter speed affect light? I was experimenting last night and whenever I went for the full focus F22 aperture or the 1/4000 shutter speed, it was just a black screen. Granted, the light in my house at 2230 isn't great but when I lowered both settings it was fine.
Click to expand...

EXPOSURE COMPENSATION

Is a means of adding more or less exposure to that indicated by the camera meter.

AEB

Is auto exposure bracketing. On this setting the camera takes three shots all at different exposures - the idea being you pick the best exposure of the three.

FLASH EXPOSURE COMPENSATION

Is a means of adjusting flash output to give more or less light from the flashgun or on board flash.

PICTURE STYLES

Are presets, each designed to give a particular 'look' to your images. They can be used whether shooting in jpeg or raw format.

WHITE BALANCE

Is a setting which ensures you get a good clean white in your images. If you get a good white with no colour casts , all other colours should fall into into place. Just use AWB (Auto White Balance) if you're shooting in daylight or with flash.

AUTO LIGHTING OPTIMISER (ALO)

Is a system peculiar to Canon which attempts to boost shadow detail while preserving highlights when shooting jpegs. You should disable it if shooting raw as it unnecessary and can cause undue image noise.

METERING MODES.

A huge subject to cover in any depth, but at the stage you're currently at just use 'Evaluative' for now - it's best in most situations anyway.

You actually asked a huge question Joe, which amounts to a basic photography course to answer it properly. Take your time mate - Rome in a day and all that! ;)
 
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Why do you want shoot in Manual Mode btw? Don't listen to anyone who tells you that 'proper' photographers shoot only in manual - it's complete nonsense and only useful in some circumstances if you really know what you're doing. I've been a photographer for over 50 years and I shoot in AV most of the time - only rarely using Manual Mode when the situation merits it.
 
CT said:
Why do you want shoot in Manual Mode btw? Don't listen to anyone who tells you that 'proper' photographers shoot only in manual - it's complete nonsense and only useful in some circumstances if you really know what you're doing. I've been a photographer for over 50 years and I shoot in AV most of the time - only rarely using Manual Mode when the situation merits it.
Click to expand...

IMO (and feel free to disagree) it's good to have a run with shooting in M so you get a broader understanding of what's going on with the exposure and how changes in light affect the settings etc. But, yes, ignore anyone who says you have to shoot in manual to be a proper tog.
 
CT said:
Why do you want shoot in Manual Mode btw? Don't listen to anyone who tells you that 'proper' photographers shoot only in manual - it's complete nonsense and only useful in some circumstances if you really know what you're doing. I've been a photographer for over 50 years and I shoot in AV most of the time - only rarely using Manual Mode when the situation merits it.
Click to expand...
I agree, same here...although I can only muster 30 years.
 
gingerjon said:
IMO (and feel free to disagree) it's good to have a run with shooting in M so you get a broader understanding of what's going on with the exposure and how changes in light affect the settings etc. But, yes, ignore anyone who says you have to shoot in manual to be a proper tog.
Click to expand...

Im not necessarily disagreeing with that - I just don't think now is the time for Joe to be using manual mode - there are a whole lot of fundamental issues he needs to grasp first or he'll just run around in ever decreasing circles.
 
Understanding exposure is the key, whether you shoot in manual, program, shutter or aperture priority. What I should have added is that I always add under/over exposure when required when using Av. If you are aware of what values are set and what impact they have, then the mode only matters in certain situations and doesn't matter most of the time.
 
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OneTen said:
I agree, same here...although I can only muster 30 years.
Click to expand...

LOL Does your mom know you're out? :D

I'm actually being somewhat on the conservative side at 50 years! Where's me pacemaker? ;)
 
When I got my DSLR I was determined to 'crack' manual mode. I will still use it as I am learning more every day but for most photo walks I now only use the A mode on my Nikon. Sometimes I will use S mode but not often.
 
As far as i am concerened every mode has a use on my camera and I will use whatever is best for a situation... Knowing manual and how each bit works helps me decide what mode is best to use... So to the OP good on ya.. get manual learnt..it can only help :)
 
CT said:
EXPOSURE COMPENSATION

Is a means of adding more or less exposure to that indicated by the camera meter.

AEB

Is auto exposure bracketing. On this setting the camera takes three shots all at different exposures - the idea being you pick the best exposure of the three.

FLASH EXPOSURE COMPENSATION

Is a means of adjusting flash output to give more or less light from the flashgun or on board flash.

PICTURE STYLES

Are presets, each designed to give a particular 'look' to your images. They can be used whether shooting in jpeg or raw format.

WHITE BALANCE

Is a setting which ensures you get a good clean white in your images. If you get a good white with no colour casts , all other colours should fall into into place. Just use AWB (Auto White Balance) if you're shooting in daylight or with flash.

AUTO LIGHTING OPTIMISER (ALO)

Is a system peculiar to Canon which attempts to boost shadow detail while preserving highlights when shooting jpegs. You should disable it if shooting raw as it unnecessary and can cause undue image noise.

METERING MODES.

A huge subject to cover in any depth, but at the stage you're currently at just use 'Evaluative' for now - it's best in most situations anyway.

You actually asked a huge question Joe, which amounts to a basic photography course to answer it properly. Take your time mate - Rome in a day and all that! ;)
Click to expand...

Code:

Thanks again. Can I please pick your brains on something else?
When I shoot on Av or on shutter speed mode, and I crank it all the way to the top (ie f22 and 1/4000) the images are really dark. Not sure if it's possible, but how do I brighten the image up? Thanks!
 
CT said:
Why do you want shoot in Manual Mode btw? Don't listen to anyone who tells you that 'proper' photographers shoot only in manual - it's complete nonsense and only useful in some circumstances if you really know what you're doing. I've been a photographer for over 50 years and I shoot in AV most of the time - only rarely using Manual Mode when the situation merits it.
Click to expand...

That's actually really reassuring to hear. I was thinking last night it would be easier to use the other modes. Thanks for the honesty - what sort of situations merit Manual in your eyes?
 
gingerjon said:
IMO (and feel free to disagree) it's good to have a run with shooting in M so you get a broader understanding of what's going on with the exposure and how changes in light affect the settings etc. But, yes, ignore anyone who says you have to shoot in manual to be a proper tog.
Click to expand...

Cheers Jon, that makes a lot of sense. Appreciate the help.
 
OneTen said:
Understanding exposure is the key, whether you shoot in manual, program, shutter or aperture priority. What I should have added is that I always add under/over exposure when required when using Av. If you are aware of what values are set and what impact they have, then the mode only matters in certain situations and doesn't matter most of the time.
Click to expand...

Thanks for taking the time to help me out, Richard.
 
Joe, Cedric..CT..., is bang on right in my opinion. Use aperture priority and Shutter priority for the time being,these will help you learn about how light effects what the camera is doing. Try putting the camera in aperture priority on a tripod, take shots of the same subject adjusting only the aperture, download the pics and look at the exif, look at how the aperture effects the shutter speed and the depth of field. The smaller the aperture, the slower the shutter speed, so if you need a faster shutter speed ,you need to let more light in. You do that by?



..................answer here.


(y)


Once you get a basic understanding, then is the time to try manual. For the record, I cannot remember the last time I used a modern camera in manual mode. Some swear by it, others don`t. Your choice.
 
fracster said:
Joe, Cedric..CT..., is bang on right in my opinion. Use aperture priority and Shutter priority for the time being,these will help you learn about how light effects what the camera is doing. Try putting the camera in aperture priority on a tripod, take shots of the same subject adjusting only the aperture, download the pics and look at the exif, look at how the aperture effects the shutter speed and the depth of field. The smaller the aperture, the slower the shutter speed, so if you need a faster shutter speed ,you need to let more light in. You do that by?



..................answer here.


(y)


Once you get a basic understanding, then is the time to try manual. For the record, I cannot remember the last time I used a modern camera in manual mode. Some swear by it, others don`t. Your choice.
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot, Colostomy Bag Supplier :)lol:). That makes a lot of sense. If you and Cedric rarely need manual then I don't either!
 
JoeWhitley said:
Thanks a lot, Colostomy Bag Supplier :)lol:). That makes a lot of sense. If you and Cedric rarely need manual then I don't either!
Click to expand...


In fairness, Cedric and I shoot similar things, so aperture priority works for both of us. The people who shoot motorsports, for example, would shoot shutter priority most I would imagine.

Don`t get me wrong, there is a time and place for manual as many will testify to. But understand how your camera works first.Learn how the shutter,aperture and ISO are all interlinked and how they effect each other.Once you have got that, then have a go at manual.

:)
 
wallyboy said:
according to book its the only way to get correct exposure every time, i have had great fun exploring camera
Click to expand...

I guess us who don`t use manual all the time had better buy the book so we can expose all our photographs correctly then.................(y)
 
JoeWhitley said:
Code:

Thanks again. Can I please pick your brains on something else?
When I shoot on Av or on shutter speed mode, and I crank it all the way to the top (ie f22 and 1/4000) the images are really dark. Not sure if it's possible, but how do I brighten the image up? Thanks!
Click to expand...


Cranking the shutter speed to 1/4000 is the fastest shutter speed that camera has, meaning the shutter is open for a tiny amount. F/22 is the smallest hole possible in the lens, meaning hardly any light is hitting the sensor. Cranking evrything to the extreme end is not the way to go. Keep both in the middle and take it from there.

In Manual mode, the meter tells you the correct exposure with the little dotted line in the view finder. Get the flashing dots bang in the middle for the "correct exposure" (what the camera thinks is correct anyway)
 
The only time I use manual is when I'm shooting something like a still life where I have time to tinker with settings so that the exposure is just right and I get the effects I'm after (like shooting water drops).

I just don't see shooting in manual mode as the gold standard of photography. If you need to do it to get the effect you're after, use it. If you can achieve what you want in AV or TV mode do that, makes your life simpler.
 
I shoot aperture or manual or very occasionally shutter. I use these three modes and only these three for a very good reason... I don't understand the others.
 
fracster said:
In fairness, Cedric and I shoot similar things, so aperture priority works for both of us. The people who shoot motorsports, for example, would shoot shutter priority most I would imagine.

Don`t get me wrong, there is a time and place for manual as many will testify to. But understand how your camera works first.Learn how the shutter,aperture and ISO are all interlinked and how they effect each other.Once you have got that, then have a go at manual.

:)
Click to expand...

Thanks for that, mate.
Can I just ask you: do you ever shoot in shutter priority mode? And if so, how do you stop it being dark when at 1/4000th of a second? Thanks again.
 
TCR4x4 said:
Cranking the shutter speed to 1/4000 is the fastest shutter speed that camera has, meaning the shutter is open for a tiny amount. F/22 is the smallest hole possible in the lens, meaning hardly any light is hitting the sensor. Cranking evrything to the extreme end is not the way to go. Keep both in the middle and take it from there.

In Manual mode, the meter tells you the correct exposure with the little dotted line in the view finder. Get the flashing dots bang in the middle for the "correct exposure" (what the camera thinks is correct anyway)
Click to expand...

Thanks Tom.
If I'm taking a photo of a golfer, say, and I want to catch the ball without any blur, what's the fastest speed I could safely go to?
And what would you say is the highest aperture you can go to without it being too dark? Thanks mate.
 
rssmrry said:
The only time I use manual is when I'm shooting something like a still life where I have time to tinker with settings so that the exposure is just right and I get the effects I'm after (like shooting water drops).

I just don't see shooting in manual mode as the gold standard of photography. If you need to do it to get the effect you're after, use it. If you can achieve what you want in AV or TV mode do that, makes your life simpler.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that. Knowing that I don't necessarily have to tinker with everything all the time is great! :)
 
JoeWhitley said:
Thanks Tom.
If I'm taking a photo of a golfer, say, and I want to catch the ball without any blur, what's the fastest speed I could safely go to?
And what would you say is the highest aperture you can go to without it being too dark? Thanks mate.
Click to expand...

Joe you really need to read the two tutorials I linked to earlier - as it stands this question has no answer because it all depends on how much prevailing light you have at the time, what ISO setting and the max aperture of your lens, apart from several other factors.

CanI suggest you works as follows and see how you get on...

(1) Work in AV Mode, and start with an ISO setting of 400 which should give you fairly quick shutter speeds in good light.

(2)Set your lens at it's widest aperture. This will give you the highest shutter speed you can achieve in that light regardless of what mode you use.

(3) Note the shutter speed you're getting in the viewfinder. If it isn't quick enough - increase the ISO to 800 which will make that shutter speed twice as fast- for example 1/1000th would become 1/2000th

(4) Increasing the ISO again to 1600 would give you a shutter speed of 1/4000th in the same prevailing light and so on.

Using terms like "highest aperture " will just confuse you - think of apertures in terms of bigger (bigger hole) and smaller (smaller hole)
 
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CT said:
Joe you really need to read the two tutorials I linked to earlier - as it stands this question has no answer because it all depends on how much prevailing light you have at the time, what ISO setting and the max aperture of your lens, apart from several other factors.

CanI suggest you works as follows and see how you get on...

(1) Work in AV Mode, and start with an ISO setting of 400 which should give you fairly quick shutter speeds in good light.

(2)Set your lens at it's widest aperture. This will give you the highest shutter speed you can achieve in that light regardless of what mode you use.

(3) Note the shutter speed you're getting in the viewfinder. If it isn't quick enough - increase the ISO to 800 which will make that shutter speed twice as fast- for example 1/1000th would become 1/2000th

(4) Increasing the ISO again to 1600 would give you a shutter speed of 1/4000th in the same prevailing light and so on.

Using terms like "highest aperture " will just confuse you - think of apertures in terms of bigger (bigger hole) and smaller (smaller hole)
Click to expand...

Thank you Cedric and sorry for asking the questions all the time - I'm just really enthusiastic at the moment.
I have the articles you sent me the links to printed out and am driving down to Kent tomorrow so will take advantage of the 5-hour sit-down to take it all in.
Thanks a lot for taking the time out to help me again, I really appreciate it.
 
JoeWhitley said:
Cheers Alan.
Whereabouts in the golden north are you from?
Click to expand...

Normanby, just outside Middlesbrough. I use to live and work in Leeds though. Worked for Systime Computers and lived in Harehills and then Headingly. Happy daze :)
 
JoeWhitley said:
Thanks for that, mate.
Can I just ask you: do you ever shoot in shutter priority mode? And if so, how do you stop it being dark when at 1/4000th of a second? Thanks again.
Click to expand...


Last time I shot shutter priority was at the Ferrari Owners Club race at Oulton Park. People want the car nice and sharp with the wheels slightly blurred, if you set the shutter speed and pan slightly you get the background nice and blurred as well.

However, I was bored after about an hour,not my cup of tea at all.

Cedric has given some good basic advice here.............. Here
 
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