Using a point and shoot/travel camera for macros

GardenersHelper said:
Excellent Steve!

I have little ballheads like that but it turns out that they aren't strong enough to hold any of my flash guns.

I wonder if that light is bright enough to use for still images when using (like I do) very small apertures? (As in, Yes, it's generating further ideas! Thanks. :D)
Click to expand...

Thanks, not trying to hijack your thread :)

No manual control on the FS3, so switched to an LZ10 to try that. With the light on full power I'm getting 1/160th @ f8 ISO 200 with -1EV with light about 3 inches away from the subject, if that helps.
Another interesting development, by swinging the bracket forward, I can backlight a subject, might be interesting with flowers?
 
Steve B said:
Thanks, not trying to hijack your thread :)
Click to expand...

Absolutely not a problem! This is interesting stuff. :D

Steve B said:
No manual control on the FS3, so switched to an LZ10 to try that. With the light on full power I'm getting 1/160th @ f8 ISO 200 with -1EV with light about 3 inches away from the subject, if that helps.
Click to expand...

Yes it does. It is nearer to being enough than I thought it would be. I'd like about three stops more, for 1/320, f8, ISO 100, 0EV (well, -1/3 EV strictly speaking, which is my baseline for my small sensor cameras.) I might just use 1/160, f8, ISO 200, -1EV, but my subjects would typically be at 6 inches working distance (when using the Raynox 150). Doubling the distance would cause a falloff of 2 stops I think. And the working distance is over a foot with the 500D. No, I don't think that would work for me. I'll be interested to see if it works for you, and if it does what settings you are using.

Steve B said:
Another interesting development, by swinging the bracket forward, I can backlight a subject, might be interesting with flowers?
Click to expand...

Worth trying. Backlit flowers can be really nice.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top