Wez's D810 thread

wezza13 said:
Having bought FoCal Pro and micro-adjusted all of my lenses, I took a load of pics in the garden yesterday afternoon, after work.

My Tamron 150-600 had to be AF fine tuned to +16 and after looking at yesterday's images on the pc, I honestly think the focus has hit a hell of a lot more than when it wasn't calibrated. I was using single point AF-C and aiming for the eyes.
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Morning - I have found that with all the bodies that I have the lens combo needs FoCal fine adjustment in the range up to the high teens

Roger also uses FoCal and I am sure he will comment

the "look" that you have with the Robin, particularly the last Wez, I am seeing with similar shots, but I have yet to fine tune any lens to the D810 body, but so far I have only used it a few times and then only with the 300PF +1,4
 
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Focal works best with a prime but if using it on a zoom it's best to calibrate at the focal length you will use it most as you can't calibrate for the focal range ... most of my lenses/combos needed around +9/10 :)
 
Morning to you both, just heading off to work (typically it's lovely blue sky! good for window cleaning though luckily) so I'll be quick.

The Robin is such an easy target to practise on as the pair of them are working tirelessly to feed their young. They must have a nest a couple of houses down as they head in the same direction every time.

I've calibrated that 150-600 at 600mm as I normally use it that end all the time. The sweet spot for that lens is supposed to be f8 at 500mm but the difference is not really noticeable, to me anyway.

Any chance you can post a couple of pics with that combo in this thread please Bill?

Roger, feel free to post some various images with the D810 too as this can be a general wildlife D810 thread :)

I refilled the feeders yesterday and before I laid down, as I wanted to get some eye-level shots, the Starlings and Robin were going ape over the mealworms on the floor. I was laying down about 5 feet from them, no cover just directly on the ground, and they couldn't care less! :)

I've just changed my output settings in LR and looked at the jpegs, really can't notice any difference.

I'd previously had it set to 100 quality and just changed it to 75. Also changed the image sizing to "Long Edge" at 2048 and the file sizes are now less than half of a mb compared to the 15-22mb I was getting. I honestly can't see any difference now. So am definitely interested to hear what you and others use :)
 
Calibration is still something I need to do.

I am finding myself using the 300mm/1.4TC combo a lot. If I calibrate for that combo, is it then just a simple case of calibrating for the lens on its own for when I don't need the TC?

If so, does the camera 'know' what combo (or not) I am using and automatically apply the relevant setting?
 
Osmo said:
Calibration is still something I need to do.

I am finding myself using the 300mm/1.4TC combo a lot. If I calibrate for that combo, is it then just a simple case of calibrating for the lens on its own for when I don't need the TC?

If so, does the camera 'know' what combo (or not) I am using and automatically apply the relevant setting?
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Morning Osmo
you need to calibrate both the 300mm on it's own and the 300mm with the 1,4
The camera will recognise the different lenses/TC's set ups

look at the distance chart - but I think that it is x 20
 
Osmo said:
Morning Bill.

Excellent, thanks for confirmation.

Did you all buy Focal Pro from here: http://www.reikan.co.uk/focalweb/index.php/versions/focal-pro/
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Yup bought it from there on Tuesday. It looks quite daunting at first but I made sure the target was well-lit. Out in the garden on the utility room door with a couple of 400w Halogen lights right on it. It says it needs bright light - up to 8 EV - to work correctly.

I thought it was a bit expensive seeing as the standard version is only £20 but need it as my main two lenses are over 400mm :)
 
Thank you both. Will look into this properly now, will have to wait until a really bright day! :)
 
Osmo said:
Thank you both. Will look into this properly now, will have to wait until a really bright day! :)
Click to expand...

I would not worry too much about this light thing which in my view is over emphasised on some of these Utube tutorials - it will tell you if the light is wrong - if you are unsure re do the test - I tend to think that it needs to be set up in "normal" shooting light conditions and at the recommended distance plus the normal distance you shot at - (say with the 600mm lens - some say x 50 = 30 metres - some say x 20 = 12 metres ...... but I normal use this lens at less than that distance - so I try say 7 metres and the recommended 20 mtrs and compare - the graph tells you whats happening and you can re-check if you think that it is wrong)

If you are spending "big" on long lens it must be worth the investment - I find that it does improve the focus point sharpness - but don't be put off if you do not see it as soon as you have made the adjustment - long lens are temperamental especially when their is a human behind them
 
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One thing that I find annoying about the D810 is that the ISO button is on top. On the D600 it was down the bottom left corner of the back of the camera. It was so much easier to change!

I've also re-assigned the AE-L/AF-L button to be a playback button so I can look through the images one-handed.

Anyone know if you can re-assign the ISO to this AE-l/AF-L button? I've tried but couldn't see it listed in the button assign menu. Would make it a lot easier :)
 
wezza13 said:
One thing that I find annoying about the D810 is that the ISO button is on top. On the D600 it was down the bottom left corner of the back of the camera. It was so much easier to change!

I've also re-assigned the AE-L/AF-L button to be a playback button so I can look through the images one-handed.

Anyone know if you can re-assign the ISO to this AE-l/AF-L button? I've tried but couldn't see it listed in the button assign menu. Would make it a lot easier :)
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Yep, taken me a while to adjust to where the ISO button is, it is something I use a lot too. You cannot re-assign it to the AE-L/AF-L button but you can assign it to the movie record button, which is the small button with a red dot in it just behind the shutter release, not sure that helps but ...
 
I agree about the iso button too.

On a similar theme, I would be interested to know the other assigned functions you guys have gone with.

I have the Fn button as DX --- FX and the Pv button to adjust the shutter delay.

What works well for you?
 
I've not made many tweaks yet, still getting used to the change in layout tbh as used the so called "consumer" bodies for so long. But I have disabled focus on the shutter release, i.e. back button only and st Fn to viewfinder virtual horizon .
 
The transition for me was a bit easier as my upgrade was only small from the D800 to the D810.

I also use back button only for focusing.
 
Wez - taken a few shots this morning

JPEG fine - all default in camera adjustments set at 0 in standard mode - the standard Nikon default settings are + 3 sharpness etc., etc. (as you can see they need a little in camera sharpness - but the window pane does take a little away)
DX crop mode
600mm f4 on a tripod/gimbal
taken from inside the house - window pane in the way
Straight out of Camera - NO PP adjustments - image just taken into LR cropped and exported 950 x 950 and under 250k files
+1/3 EV
The lack of and quality of the noise with this camera is wonderful

It's a young Redstart - didn't realise any had fledged yet - so the feathers will be on the soft side

lens has NOT been fine tuned to camera (yet)

these would be improved with simple PP in LR - I did not even set the black and white points

I think that images are good considering - taken as RAW, with good PP and taken out in the open they should "scrub up" well

1/800th - f5.6 ISO 320

red_1.jpg



1/640th f8 ISO 640

red_2.jpg


1/640th f4 ISO 110

Red_3.jpg
 
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Excellent Bill. Even more so that they are through a pain of glass and sooc!

How far away were you from him/her?
 
Bill & others, not sure you know or use this, but if using the crop modes x1. 2 or 1.5 etc... in the Custom Setting Menu and under section A, Autofocus, if you then turn off A6, Focus point illumination, it darkens the outside of the focus box for the crop mode being used. I find this very handy for framing in crop modes.
 
Swanseajack said:
Bill & others, not sure you know or use this, but if using the crop modes x1. 2 or 1.5 etc... in the Custom Setting Menu and under section A, Autofocus, if you then turn off A6, Focus point illumination, it darkens the outside of the focus box for the crop mode being used. I find this very handy for framing in crop modes.
Click to expand...

Thanks Simon - just getting used to the D810 ....... next step is to fine tune my 300mm and 600mm with and without TC's

In good light the jpegs look good

The crop mode is pretty handy for close ups
 
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'Bill & others, not sure you know or use this, but if using the crop modes x1. 2 or 1.5 etc... in the Custom Setting Menu and under section A, Autofocus, if you then turn off A6, Focus point illumination, it darkens the outside of the focus box for the crop mode being used. I find this very handy for framing in crop modes.'


Yes, very handy to help with composition.

I found this quite useful regarding some recommended settings.
 
Osmo said:
'Bill & others, not sure you know or use this, but if using the crop modes x1. 2 or 1.5 etc... in the Custom Setting Menu and under section A, Autofocus, if you then turn off A6, Focus point illumination, it darkens the outside of the focus box for the crop mode being used. I find this very handy for framing in crop modes.'


Yes, very handy to help with composition.

I found this quite useful regarding some recommended settings.
Click to expand...

I just need to set the front bottom button to change the various modes, as i have it on the D750

here's one I took in RAW from the same position and then processed in LR

Red_4.jpg
 
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BillN_33 said:
I just need to set the front bottom button to change the various modes, as i have it on the D750
Click to expand...

That's how I have mine set up too, rather than being able scroll though multiple options though I set mine to be DX or FX only.

Lovely shot and great feather detail.
 
BillN_33 said:
Wez - taken a few shots this morning

JPEG fine - all default in camera adjustments set at 0 in standard mode - the standard Nikon default settings are + 3 sharpness etc., etc. (as you can see they need a little in camera sharpness - but the window pane does take a little away)
DX crop mode
600mm f4 on a tripod/gimbal
taken from inside the house - window pane in the way
Straight out of Camera - NO PP adjustments - image just taken into LR cropped and exported 950 x 950 and under 250k files
+1/3 EV
The lack of and quality of the noise with this camera is wonderful

It's a young Redstart - didn't realise any had fledged yet - so the feathers will be on the soft side

lens has NOT been fine tuned to camera (yet)

these would be improved with simple PP in LR - I did not even set the black and white points

I think that images are good considering - taken as RAW, with good PP and taken out in the open they should "scrub up" well

1/800th - f5.6 ISO 320

red_1.jpg



1/640th f8 ISO 640

red_2.jpg


1/640th f4 ISO 110

Red_3.jpg
Click to expand...


These really are brilliant shots considering the SOOC, flat jpegs that they are. The 600mm F4 optical quality really shows through, even though you were shooting through glass! Is this a normal window pane or did you end up getting that fancy (marine) glass that you were considering a while back? With RAW PP they would turn out amazing (y)

A lot of the shots I've been taking - even up to 1000 iso - seem to barely have any noise in them at all. It really is impressive.

PaulButler said:
Yep, taken me a while to adjust to where the ISO button is, it is something I use a lot too. You cannot re-assign it to the AE-L/AF-L button but you can assign it to the movie record button, which is the small button with a red dot in it just behind the shutter release, not sure that helps but ...
Click to expand...

Thank you for the info, that button will be re-assigned shortly :)

I've always used back-button focus so that was the first thing I changed when I unboxed the camera :)

Swanseajack said:
Bill & others, not sure you know or use this, but if using the crop modes x1. 2 or 1.5 etc... in the Custom Setting Menu and under section A, Autofocus, if you then turn off A6, Focus point illumination, it darkens the outside of the focus box for the crop mode being used. I find this very handy for framing in crop modes.
Click to expand...

I haven't tested the crop mode out yet but this is a good piece of advice, I'll certainly apply it and see how it looks :)

Like I mentioned with the ISO button, the metering button is awkward. I admit though, it's only because I'm not used to the layout. At the moment, I have changed the Fn button to Spot Metering, as it's easy (for me) to press whilst holding the camera. I think it was set to Virtual Horizon as default?

It would be really nice if all the buttons were fully customisable though :)
 
Osmo said:
'Bill & others, not sure you know or use this, but if using the crop modes x1. 2 or 1.5 etc... in the Custom Setting Menu and under section A, Autofocus, if you then turn off A6, Focus point illumination, it darkens the outside of the focus box for the crop mode being used. I find this very handy for framing in crop modes.'


Yes, very handy to help with composition.

I found this quite useful regarding some recommended settings.
Click to expand...

Thank you for that link to Nasim's page. Will take a look now for ideas/inspiration (y)
 
just ordinary window glass Wez ...... not been cleaned this year ...... another job to do
 
On another note, I use the SD card port on its own with this particular card "SanDisk Extreme Pro 95 MB/s 32 GB" :- https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-Ex...=8-1&keywords=sandisk+extreme+pro+95mb+s+32gb

I have two of those that I used to use in my D600 to give me 64gb worth of memory (used the second card as overflow).

Just wondering, is it worth getting a 64gb version of my card? Or, is it worth buying a CF card for the other slot? Is there an advantage to having a CF card over the one I'm currently using?
 
wezza13 said:
On another note, I use the SD card port on its own with this particular card "SanDisk Extreme Pro 95 MB/s 32 GB" :- https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-Ex...=8-1&keywords=sandisk+extreme+pro+95mb+s+32gb

I have two of those that I used to use in my D600 to give me 64gb worth of memory (used the second card as overflow).

Just wondering, is it worth getting a 64gb version of my card? Or, is it worth buying a CF card for the other slot? Is there an advantage to having a CF card over the one I'm currently using?
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CF cards are generally faster and more robust. But if you save a backup copy as you shoot, i.e. to both cards at the same time, it will go as fast as the slowest card. You may need a CF card reader too ;) I use the Lexar reader but there are others too.
 
wezza13 said:
On another note, I use the SD card port on its own with this particular card "SanDisk Extreme Pro 95 MB/s 32 GB" :- https://www.amazon.co.uk/SanDisk-Ex...=8-1&keywords=sandisk+extreme+pro+95mb+s+32gb

I have two of those that I used to use in my D600 to give me 64gb worth of memory (used the second card as overflow).

Just wondering, is it worth getting a 64gb version of my card? Or, is it worth buying a CF card for the other slot? Is there an advantage to having a CF card over the one I'm currently using?
Click to expand...

No idea Wez - but I once looked up card speeds - there's a table on the internet somewhere?

Someone will come in I hope and answer that

By the way I've always used one cell focusing ......... for birds ....... been trying the others ........ don't like 4 as there is no centre point but 9 seems to work well, (focusing on the eye)
 
BillN_33 said:
No idea Wez - but I once looked up card speeds - there's a table on the internet somewhere?

Someone will come in I hope and answer that

By the way I've always used one cell focusing ......... for birds ....... been trying the others ........ don't like 4 as there is no centre point but 9 seems to work well, (focusing on the eye)
Click to expand...


I have just been using the one memory card for my shooting as it's nothing critical. If I had a special occasion I will buy some CF cards but all mine currently are SD.

Bill, if I have read the manual correctly the, the missing square in the 5 group area AF is the centre point, I found it good for a little play last weekend, much better than the D750 IMO.
 
PaulButler said:
CF cards are generally faster and more robust. But if you save a backup copy as you shoot, i.e. to both cards at the same time, it will go as fast as the slowest card. You may need a CF card reader too ;) I use the Lexar reader but there are others too.
Click to expand...

I've got a Kingston USB 3.0 card reader on my PC and it has a slot, luckily, for CF. I remember buying it from amazon for around £13.

I may get a CF card though and set it to overflow, as in RAW, this SD card only shoots 300 something images. Most of the time though, I carry a spare memory card with me in my wallet. :)
 
For normal shooting I have mine set as using the CF card as the primary with the SD as overflow if needed. I mainly only shoot in raw too. The display shows that I can shoot around 397 images onto a 32Gb card.
 
I had a disappointing morning over at the local gravel pits, where I was over there for a couple of hours in some nice, but pretty harsh, early morning light. Got there at 6.20am and there was a lovely clear blue sky, sun shining brightly.

Set up the D810 with the Tamron 150-600 on my tripod with gimbal head. I was hoping to get at least some half decent shots. I'd previously calibrated my lens with FoCal pro at the beginning of the week. The Focal analysis chart at the end said the test distance was 14.6m to 14.8m (As far as my garden would allow).

However, I'm thinking that it had an effect on the OOF shots that I came back with?

First of all, I saw a Grey Heron flying over. Granted, it was a long way away, but wanted to get it as a record shot, but mainly to see if the 5-point Group-Area AF had locked on okay.

These are a couple of the images :

heronfp.jpg heronfpoff.jpg

Obviously totally OOF but the Focus Points addon says "Focus Achieved". It says 149.62 metres away, which I assume is the infinity point of the lens as I tried pics further away and they also said 149.62m.

How would this say focus achieved? The AF Fine-Tune setting is +9 and I haven't changed it from that. Bear in mind that the calibrated distance was 14.6m and this is infinity - a massive difference.

Same here:

heronfpofffp.jpg heronfpofffp2.jpg

These above two images are from the same sequence. Same effect - severely OOF. Again, I put this down to how far away the target is. But shouldn't it at least be acceptable?
 

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So I aimed at something a lot closer to the initial calibration distance :

focusoff.jpg focusofffp.jpg

This is 19 metres away, the calibration distance was at 14.6m.

Should this be a lot sharper? On tripod the whole time, nothing's changed. There was no VC on as I physically checked. It was off all day.

To me this is not even close.
 
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This next sequence with the swans, I would expect to be a bit sharper too.

The first two pics show that it was at 149.62m, whereas the following two pics say that it was at a distance of 63.10m. They were shot a second or two apart.

First two:

swan1481.jpg swan1481fp.jpg

Second two:

swan63m.jpg swan63mfp.jpg

These first two at 149.62 look probably as well as they can, in that the feather that my arrow is pointing at is reasonably sharp. Shooting it at f9 though with a fast shutter speed, shouldn't the eye be sharp? It's the same as this last picture. None of the eyes seem sharp enough for me.

Might it be a case of having to re-calibrate my lens at a crazy place like a field where I can get some distance? Because with these swan shots, they're not cropped or anything so are roundabout the ideal distance or else they'll be too big for the frame.

Any thoughts? I know a lot of it can be down to user error but I've had nice sharp shots before with this lens on my D7100 and D600.

Any ideas are gratefully welcomed :)

@BillN_33 @gramps @Osmo @PaulButler @Swanseajack
 
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I am in favour of calibrating lenses, but only after I am convinced they need it. I don't know if you used the 150-600 on the D810 before calibrating, but I would have done so with zero calibration first and assessed the results to see if calibration was warranted. If it was me I'd reset the calibration and see how it works at the ranges you are shooting at.

This of course assumes you have eliminated user error - no offence intended.
 
Morning

may not help Wez - but i'm starting at zero and working my way up - making sure I eliminate any "other" factors that may effect the shot, (but I cannot eliminate me, so maybe?), - I have not calibrated the lens yet and all my shots have been at under 10 metres

but were you at ISO 2000?

keep at it - from all I read you need to take a bit more care with the D810 than other Nikon bodies - but I am finding it a bigger challenge and a worthwhile one .......

I'll post a few shots on here this evening - just rough and ready shots

these may not help - but they are the longest shot I have

but hand held with the 300mm PF + 1.7TC at 1/500th f8 - VR on

(I think that I got what I expected)

Keep posting and as you suggested we can use your thread as a D810 - bird and image thread


full image
Wez_1.jpg



crop
Wez_2.jpg



says it's 32 metres - but i just missed the focus

Wez_3.jpg




I find that according to focus points I am missing my intended focus point slightly on many shots even on a tripod - so I must be getting some user error movement

Like this
Wez_4.jpg
 
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Are you using the Focal solid target or a paper print-out?
If a paper print-out how are you ensuring that the target remains flat to the lens at all times and is not affected by any breeze?
Was the light good when you carried out the test?
Did you ensure that the lens remained stable even when inputting the AF +/- changes manually?
The distance you calibrated at should not be causing you this problem.
I would try calibrating again and see what figure you get but make sure that you consider my questions above. :)
 
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