Recent content by arad85

As has been said, splitting the cable will limit each connection to the router to 100Mbit (which may or may not be an issue to you - it will be if you are copying files from a NAS/server at the router end and everything there is Gigabit capable for example). Personally, I'd put a decent router...

You always (well, as long as I can remember) do this. Open As -> Raw and then select JPEG. Just you have way less wiggle room from JPEGs - especially in the shadow areas...

PS part way down this page you'll find what is and isn't accelerated: https://helpx.adobe.com/photoshop/kb/photoshop-cs6-gpu-faq.html If you use any of the image warping or 3D features in the "GPU-enhanced features added in Photoshop CS6" a lot you may get a performance boost there. If you do...

Unless you're doing weird stuff for as photographer, GPU specs don't mater. Unless you're using ATI in which case ditch the ATI card and look at Nvidia (you would not believe the issues I've had with AMD cards over the years that I haven't had with Nvidia...).

But you can get reasonably priced mid-range, hardware calibratable monitors. I have 2 x 27" 2713H's here that are fully hardware calibrated for example and they were less than £1k for the pair....

Because it is irrelevant... Windows graphics is 32bit too - thee reason is it is more convenient for a processor to work on 4 8bit elements at a time than 3. (and why 64bits - the next multiple of 2 after 4 - is the next larger compute size). Macs and PCs use essentially the same hardware so...

I haven't used ISP provided hardware for ages other than as a modem (and I use dedicated modems now as I find that better). Just buy yourself a decent router (Asus RT-N66U or -AC66U would be my choice as the wireless is superb) and then either run DD-WRT (as suggested above) or live with the...

Yes. But... Lenses don't change focal length. All that changes is field of view. You get the equivalent field of view that a xxmm lens would give on full frame. Also, a full frame DSLR and crop DSLR are both DSLRs. D just stands for DIGITAL. The sensor size is what makes it a crop or full...

Start here: http://nvidia.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/3049/~/how-to-enable-30-bit-color-on-windows-platforms

They all fit different processors. 2011 is for the big boys (Xeons and hex cores). 1150 is for i5-4xxx, 1155 is for i5-3xxx and i5-2xxx. So... which processor you buy will dictate which mobo you want. You want LGA1150 with the connections you need ;)

Unless you're doing video encoding (where i7 will give 15-20% speed improvement), the i7 does not give you much. In the processor lineup, i5's are all the same in the same generation (i.e. the fist digit after the dash e.g i5-4xxx). Figure around 10% faster clock for clock than the previous gen...

Go lower on processor (i5 without a K suffix unless you plan to overclock). Drop the RAID1 arrays and put the money you've saved into a decent NAS (Synology always comes up well). Use that as a backup medium. 16G memory and if you are only driving a single monitor, onboard graphics will be fine...

No. If you are intent on using half your 4 disks as redundancy, you should be using RAID6. The "smarter" approach (as it gives you more space) is to have RAID5 and another backup somewhere else that is regularly updated (2 locations is better than 1 heavily guarded one).

Neither would I. I would (and do!) use RAIDZ. Again all I am saying is that if you are dead set on belt and braces because someone has told you that you should use RAID10, the better choice for you actually is RAID6. Clearer?

Windows 7. On a microserver??? You should be using Linux IMHO. If you don't want to bother learning Linux, buy a NAS. IMHO of course...