Ship thingy is a Jack-up barge.
Impressive up close when they’re testing them, they go really high (or indeed deep, which is the point. Sail to where they’re working then make a stable platform).
I’ve not taken the 40 off my Cii since I got it either.
A lens that on paper is nothing special but somehow more than the sum of its parts. IME it just gets out the way.
Ah I don’t think it’ll work with those old receivers unless they’re also the X wireless system? Off the top of my head they’re the older non TTL system?
Edit: quick google suggest I might be wrong and they are the 2.4ghz x wireless.
Went to check if I had pictures to share for example but they’re all portraits I don’t want online.
But the examples I have are eg the TT685F shooting into an umbrella off camera and the it32 also off camera as a flll light , both triggered by the X5S.
Works TTL and manual (even between Fuji...
Yes.
I’ve not tried an AD200 but my older 685 works so newer stuff should too.
The controls on the back of the it32 or indeed simpler controls on the x5 will control other flashes too.
This isn’t correct, you need the it32 to setup the channel etc but once that’s done (or if you use the default) it’ll trigger any of their other flashes.
I have a Sony it32 and a Fuji TT685 - I can control it just fine.
Forgot, I have one frame from the A7CII and 40mm/2.5!
Took it to use as a lock screen background on my phone, hence the positioning of the in-focus area and shooting shallow DOF to put the bits of the frame that will have clock etc in front OOF.
Have to wait for mine, I took the Hasselblad this year, but need to wait till I shoot the rest of the roll...
I was also metering differently, and forgot some tape across where I think I need a new seal so might have a light leak... don't get this kinda anticipation on digital :)
I’ve a Cii and Samyang 35/2.8 (amongst other lenses ) - it’s about as compact as FF gets
Focus is fine imo - it’ll nail eye focus on a toddler that won’t stay still, which is the torture test for my purposes :-)
On metering, I haven’t yet made it publicly available, but I’ve made an iOS app specifically to meet my Hasselblad with 80mm metering needs. There are apps out there, but I wanted to also log an image of the scene with metered and set exposure info and geotag data embedded (some times I eg...
Playing around with a somewhat unwieldy setup - Hasselblad 80mm/2.8 adapted to Nikon, adapted to E mount via a tilt-shift adapter, then my a5100 on the back. A modified lens collar to clamp the Nikon adapter, then the a5100 in portrait shifted across the image circle of the lens to give a kinda...
If you do get one and want a bit of fun, I picked up a Nons Instax back (the first version, they have a new one now) for mine and really enjoy it - some pics here: https://www.talkphotography.co.uk/threads/anyone-else-shooting-instax.767024/
Would recommend!
(Hasselblads and instax)
Also hair and eyelashes for wide-open sharpness, then I have a long view over the city nearby I can walk to, stop down and shoot the horizon on an angle either way so I have corner-to-corner sharpness at infinity to test for landscape use etc.
The thing above is checking it’s not de-centred too...
You need an A to C lead not an adapter. For data transfer make sure it’s a USB 3 one. Anker, ugreen or amazon basics all are ok.
You can’t adapt an A port into a C port and be compliant with the spec, for long and boring reasons I won’t bother with here unless asked. So the adapters do exist...
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