The Fabulous Fuji X owners thread

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Raymond Lin said:
I am wondering if it is a setting that I use often. Basically it is between the Smallrig or Lensmate.

Smallrig is so much cheaper, $14.99 with the shutter button too.

Lensmate is like $80 !

What is more critical is that the obstruction of the compensation dial, the Smallrig really blocks it, and that is a dial I use a lot.

Ignoring the fact that the Lensmate can flip forward, as that is more to use the ISO dial (which I seldom change, it will stay in Auto), I am more concern with access to the wheel and compensation dial. The lens mate also looks like blocking the AEL button a lot which is just as important for back button focusing.

Without flipping it out.

Lensmate - obstruct AEL and Wheel
Smallrig - obstruct compensation dial

43xvClY.jpg




maYgxeq.png


xgKWiww.png
Click to expand...
I used to use front wheel for exp comp as it gives up to 5 stops each way, clicking it allowed ISO setting changes

I always felt thumbrests obscured my use of the camera, so never used them - only used a grip when I wanted Arca tripod plate
 
Raymond Lin said:
I am wondering if it is a setting that I use often. Basically it is between the Smallrig or Lensmate.

Smallrig is so much cheaper, $14.99 with the shutter button too.

Lensmate is like $80 !

What is more critical is that the obstruction of the compensation dial, the Smallrig really blocks it, and that is a dial I use a lot.

Ignoring the fact that the Lensmate can flip forward, as that is more to use the ISO dial (which I seldom change, it will stay in Auto), I am more concern with access to the wheel and compensation dial. The lens mate also looks like blocking the AEL button a lot which is just as important for back button focusing.

Without flipping it out.

Lensmate - obstruct AEL and Wheel
Smallrig - obstruct compensation dial

43xvClY.jpg




maYgxeq.png


xgKWiww.png
Click to expand...

I actually have the ex comp set to C with it on the front dial. I just found it quicker & easier to adjust than using the dedicated thumb wheel.
 
Mr Perceptive said:
@

I used to use front wheel for exp comp as it gives up to 5 stops each way, clicking it allowed ISO setting changes

I always felt thumbrests obscured my use of the camera, so never used them - only used a grip when I wanted Arca tripod plate
Click to expand...
LeeRatters said:
I actually have the ex comp set to C with it on the front dial. I just found it quicker & easier to adjust than using the dedicated thumb wheel.
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That’s interesting and faster too. Then what does the comp dial do then when you do that?
 
Raymond Lin said:
That’s interesting and faster too. Then what does the comp dial do then when you do that?
Click to expand...
I just used to leave it set on C - you don’t have to use all the dials!!

Most if my X100F shooting was Aperture Priority, AutoISO (200-6400), so I just mainly used Aperture on Lens and Front Dial - I would bob into ISO settings if I wanted to force the ISO for a shot.

I now have a Leica Q3 and I have to go back to using an exposure compensation dial, though the Leica one is smoother to operate and still adjust aperture on the lens.

I really can’t be doing with lots of controls and dials, once the camera is set up I just want to use it!!
 
Mr Perceptive said:
I just used to leave it set on C - you don’t have to use all the dials!!

Most if my X100F shooting was Aperture Priority, AutoISO (200-6400), so I just mainly used Aperture on Lens and Front Dial - I would bob into ISO settings if I wanted to force the ISO for a shot.

I now have a Leica Q3 and I have to go back to using an exposure compensation dial, though the Leica one is smoother to operate and still adjust aperture on the lens.

I really can’t be doing with lots of controls and dials, once the camera is set up I just want to use it!!
Click to expand...

But what does the compensation dial when it’s assigned to the front wheel? Lol what does “leave it to C” mean?

Does it do nothing or stay the same?
 
Mr Perceptive said:
BTW the EVF image only shows +/- 3 stops but the indicator goes up to +/- 5 stops (it’s in indicator number that is used when the shot is taken, so at say -5 the EVF will not reflect the actual image taken, but the review image will!)
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I’ll probably leave it at 3 stop so the screen shows accurately when it is doing. Never need more than 2 stop comp usually.
 
Raymond Lin said:
I am wondering if it is a setting that I use often. Basically it is between the Smallrig or Lensmate.

Smallrig is so much cheaper, $14.99 with the shutter button too.

Lensmate is like $80 !

What is more critical is that the obstruction of the compensation dial, the Smallrig really blocks it, and that is a dial I use a lot.

Ignoring the fact that the Lensmate can flip forward, as that is more to use the ISO dial (which I seldom change, it will stay in Auto), I am more concern with access to the wheel and compensation dial. The lens mate also looks like blocking the AEL button a lot which is just as important for back button focusing.

Without flipping it out.

Lensmate - obstruct AEL and Wheel
Smallrig - obstruct compensation dial

43xvClY.jpg




maYgxeq.png


xgKWiww.png
Click to expand...
Real men never use the compensation dial, they shoot wide open manual and get it right first time, hope that helps with the decision and makes you take a long hard look at yourself :ROFLMAO:
 
Only need these combinations

1 - the shutter (obviously) - set to focus where the box is
2 - compensation dial
3 - back button focus set to face/eye AF anywhere on the frame

Ideally I’d like a back wheel to work in conjunction with front wheel and can move focus point around the screen faster than a stick but since there’s no back wheel then the front one can be used for compensation dial, so that’s rather perfect.
 
Mr Perceptive said:
Whilst spot metering on both bright and dark objects in the field of view :)
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In all seriousness are you using highlight weighted metering on the Q3 ? I lived in that as found the shadow recovery was ridiculously good. Can't remember if Fuji have that option because i've always found the highlights can blow all too easily on the X100V.
 
imattersuk said:
In all seriousness are you using highlight weighted metering on the Q3 ? I lived in that as found the shadow recovery was ridiculously good. Can't remember if Fuji have that option because i've always found the highlights can blow all too easily on the X100V.
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Only played with multi field so far, it’s on my list to experiment with :)
 
Just thought I'd share a few from a recent night walkabout in London with my new X-S10 and 90mm f/2, just getting to know it better.
I found the 90 to be a bit close at times, so am wondering if the 60mm would be better...





 
imattersuk said:
Real men never use the compensation dial, they shoot wide open manual and get it right first time, hope that helps with the decision and makes you take a long hard look at yourself :ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...

That's sort of how I feel about my 35 f1.4. Why do I need DoF when I have all that lovely bokeh? The only way to shoot with it is wide open and electronic shutter.....
 
With the release of the X100VI, I had a look on MPB to see what the original X100 is going for these days, just out of curiosity, surprising to see they are still selling at £480+!
 
nx4737 said:
With the release of the X100VI, I had a look on MPB to see what the original X100 is going for these days, just out of curiosity, surprising to see they are still selling at £480+!
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The X100 original's price has hit rock bottom a few years ago (like when the S and T were out, or just after the F). During the pandemic tiktokker got hold it it due to it's "low" price, which was around £250-300 then, for its retro look and at one point, were selling for £1k, and then those people flogged to the others in the range.

As a result, the price for the entire range has shifted up a couple hundred quid. I remember seeing a used X100F for £699 in 2021, since then I've seen then regularly at £899.

Plus there is the thing about the original having the Bayer sensor which people love. So in short, the price for an original has bottomed out like in 2020, and there is a chance as time goes on, it will be worth more than the T soon. It is already selling for as much as the S really. They both go for around £500.
 
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stevewestern said:
You made another good decision when you sold me your 100-400 many years ago too! However you seem to have progressed with your photography since then....!
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Not sure on both of those counts didnt we meet up at Chievely service station? Quite often think about the 150-600 but I know I get one and only use it once in a blue moon.
 
yamahatdm900 said:
Not sure on both of those counts didnt we meet up at Chievely service station? Quite often think about the 150-600 but I know I get one and only use it once in a blue moon.
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Yup, we meet there like a pair of drug dealers swapping cash and brown boxes.. I look forward to buying your 150-600 soon!
And this time at a bargain price......
 
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Question for the wise and experienced readers please...
Which is better... A used Fuji 56mm f/1.2R for £399 or used Sigma 56mm f1.4 DC DN Contemporary for £318...?
 
yamahatdm900 said:
Depends if you want an aperture ring or not? Personally got the Sigma and very pleased with it.
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Thanks. I've noticed lots of talk on YouTube videos about the aperture rings on Fuji lenses (and moreso complaints of them missing on some lenses) but I've never used them before so don't think it's a necessity for me. (y)
 
beercan said:
Question for the wise and experienced readers please...
Which is better... A used Fuji 56mm f/1.2R for £399 or used Sigma 56mm f1.4 DC DN Contemporary for £318...?
Click to expand...

Normally I'd suggest the Sigma. I have one and love it. Optically they're not far apart, the aperture ring is the main difference.

In this case, for such a small price difference, I'd go for the Fuji.
 
beercan said:
Thanks. I've noticed lots of talk on YouTube videos about the aperture rings on Fuji lenses (and moreso complaints of them missing on some lenses) but I've never used them before so don't think it's a necessity for me. (y)
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Image quality I’ve found it’s very good on both. I can’t comment on the AF speed of the Fuji on the latest bodies the last time I had one was on a x-T30 but on that it was not great but it’s probaly a lot better on the newer bodies.
 
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