"Panasonic G series" Owners Thread

Crotal Bell said:
What about G80 and 12-60mm lens. Used models are getting pretty cheap now and I love mine.
Solid weatherproof build, not very bulky, superb in-body IS which works with the Power OIS lenses.
I never use a tripod and it's amazing how low you can get the SS with all the stabilisation.
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Fully agree, both the camera and lens are excellent, and the dual stabilisation is very useful with UK weather and light.

They are cheap compared to a G9ii, but expensive compared to a G3 (a lovely small camera for its price), ie, don't know what your "cheap" means :)
 
Baloo said:
Didnt you have shutter shock issues on a couple of Panasonics back in the day, I never had any issues with either G7or GX 7 guess I was just lucky.
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I was lucky too with my G7!!! As were many (most) others
 
Sangoma said:
Fully agree, both the camera and lens are excellent, and the dual stabilisation is very useful with UK weather and light.

They are cheap compared to a G9ii, but expensive compared to a G3 (a lovely small camera for its price), ie, don't know what your "cheap" means :)
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I am working on the £100 to £160 for a G6 so that is my baseline, the G80 at Park for £239 isnt my definition of cheap but I think it falls into bargin!:D
 
It's not really a question of luck as all affected cameras and lenses do it if the kit and the settings combinations are right. You need a camera with that shutter, a lens which will be affected and you need to be using the mechanical shutter in the affected shutter speed range. IMO you're much better off getting a camera with the redesigned shutter, problem solved.
 
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It was lucky for me as I never used the rare combination of settings that caused it
 
Sangoma said:
It was lucky for me as I never used the rare combination of settings that caused it
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It's not a rare combination of settings at all, it's a very common combination that comes into play if you use the mechanical shutter. Using the electronic shutter is a fix unless you run into rolling shutter or banding. SS was a killer for me and made some combinations of camera and lens unusable in some situations, I couldn't use the mechanical shutter because of SS and I couldn't use the ES because of banding. It was nothing short of a disgrace that Panasonic sold cameras and lenses as a bundle knowing the issue.

I do think that cameras like the G7 are worth looking at if they're significantly cheaper than non affected cameras but only if the potential buyer is fully aware of the SS issue and what causes it and is prepared to deal with it by using lenses which aren't affected. Going for an affected camera like the G7 is an ongoing job of work though as you then need to be careful when buying lenses. For me it's just too much work and bother and if looking at a G7 I'd stop looking and buy the G80. The price difference doesn't seem all that great when going for the G7 compared to the possible hassle of SS and the ongoing brain work and effort needed to make sure that you're not affected. Some people will never see the issue at all because they haven't used an affected combination of camera and lens or just don't see what's obvious to others in the final picture and there are people like that.

Just avoid it all and get a camera with the redesigned shutter then you can use any lens you want and shoot in the affected shutter speed range with the mechanical shutter when the electronic shutter gives you too much of an issue. ie. With moving subjects which would cause rolling shutter or under lighting which would cause banding with the electronic shutter.
 
Sangoma said:
I was lucky too with my G7!!! As were many (most) others
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If most people weren't affected it was through luck because they didn't have affected lenses or through not looking at their pictures closely enough, and there were those in denial. There was a guy used to post in this thread and he was one of those who thought it was a non issue as he'd never been affected. I asked him once and he confirmed that he only used the ES. Well... That explains it but try shooting a moving subject or under flickering artificial lights with the ES and tell me ES is a fix all :D

There are people who are "unaffected" but I just want a hassle free life. I want the camera to get out of the way and be as transparent as possible. I don't want a camera and lens combination I have to wrestle with or even just not use in some situations. I just don't see the point in going through all this when other cameras are available which fix the problem.

Roger and other potential buyers... Be informed and then make your own decision.
 
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woof woof said:
It's not a rare combination of settings at all, it's a very common combination that comes into play if you use the mechanical shutter. Using the electronic shutter is a fix unless you run into rolling shutter or banding. SS was a killer for me and made some combinations of camera and lens unusable in some situations, I couldn't use the mechanical shutter because of SS and I couldn't use the ES because of banding. It was nothing short of a disgrace that Panasonic sold cameras and lenses as a bundle knowing the issue.

I do think that cameras like the G7 are worth looking at if they're significantly cheaper than non affected cameras but only if the potential buyer is fully aware of the SS issue and what causes it and is prepared to deal with it by using lenses which aren't affected. Going for an affected camera like the G7 is an ongoing job of work though as you then need to be careful when buying lenses. For me it's just too much work and bother and if looking at a G7 I'd stop looking and buy the G80. The price difference doesn't seem all that great when going for the G7 compared to the possible hassle of SS and the ongoing brain work and effort needed to make sure that you're not affected. Some people will never see the issue at all because they haven't used an affected combination of camera and lens or just don't see what's obvious to others in the final picture and there are people like that.

Just avoid it all and get a camera with the redesigned shutter then you can use any lens you want and shoot in the affected shutter speed range with the mechanical shutter when the electronic shutter gives you too much of an issue. ie. With moving subjects which would cause rolling shutter or under lighting which would cause banding with the electronic shutter.
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Must have been rare for me, as I never had it :)
 
bl0at3r said:
Thinking of going old school and buying a used GX9 and 20mm pancake - really enjoyed this camera+lens combo several years ago.

(y)
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I often use the 20mm pancake on a GX7, lovely combination for carrying around, and the standard zoom that came with the GX7 isn't much bigger.
I've never found the focus speed of the 20mm to ba a problem, in fact don't notice it.
 
Sangoma said:
I often use the 20mm pancake on a GX7, lovely combination for carrying around, and the standard zoom that came with the GX7 isn't much bigger.
I've never found the focus speed of the 20mm to ba a problem, in fact don't notice it.
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My favourite M43 lens of all time. I used it on a GF1, GX1, GX7, GX9 and also on an OM-D EM5 and EM5 Mk2 !
 
woof woof said:
There was a guy used to post in this thread and he was one of those who thought it was a non issue as he'd never been affected. I asked him once and he confirmed that he only used the ES.
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Assuming that I'm "the guy" to whom you're referring, I don't recall ever claiming I only used the electronic shutter.

I just never noticed the problem you described. Still let's not start that hare running again.
Sangoma said:
Must have been rare for me, as I never had it :)
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Now you've done it! We'll be back into "I'm always right" territory. :wideyed:
 
AndrewFlannigan said:
Assuming that I'm "the guy" to whom you're referring, I don't recall ever claiming I only used the electronic shutter.

I just never noticed the problem you described. Still let's not start that hare running again.

Now you've done it! We'll be back into "I'm always right" territory. :wideyed:
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No you're not the guy.

I'm in the I saw the problem as did many other users and reviewers territory together with Panasonic who acknowledged the issue and redesigned the shutter to fix it. You are in oblivious and happy territory. Good for you ;)

I think it's right, open and honest to make newbies aware of any plus or minus points of kit especially when it's a potentially serious issue like this is so that they can make informed decisions on how to spend their hard earned money. Imagine spending hundreds of £ on kit and then finding it has a serious design flaw? That isn't nice. Best be armed with information so that you are able to make an informed decision (y) :D
 
Sangoma said:
I often use the 20mm pancake on a GX7, lovely combination for carrying around, and the standard zoom that came with the GX7 isn't much bigger.
I've never found the focus speed of the 20mm to ba a problem, in fact don't notice it.
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The focus is fast enough for me for single shots too but I think a bigger issue is tracking and the fact that it wont work in all focus modes on some bodies. I can't remember the details but I remember that it wouldn't work in all on at least one body I had. Googling tells me it's AFF and AFC which are the problem.

The 20mm f1.7 and the similarly sized 14mm f2.5 are two of the lenses that keep me with MFT. The 45-150mm and 100-400mm are the others I still have.
 
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I had a g6 for a couple of years and loved it. More of a prime user myself though. But the 14-140 when used with g6 was great for an all in one travel lens. And it’s light for the reach it gives you. I did upgrade to a g80 after that and appreciated the better viewfinder, IBIS and even the sound of the mechanical shutter. But it was a little heavier and bigger. I paired that with the gx80 for something smaller and lighter which I still use.
 
Hairywan said:
Just bought a GX80 ( because it's compact) and waiting for the Meike macro extension tube set and a lumix 50-200mm f4-5.6 hoping to do (macro and general) photography. I absolutely love all the insect and spider photos on flowers. Completely new to none point and shoot photography. Is anyone else using this kit for this. I have watched a (millions!) of youtube vids, so hopefully will post pics.

A Meike MK320 flash also on route.

Can anyone recommend an online course for beginners to get me started
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How are you getting on with the extension tubes?
 
Just popped my old 100-300 Mega OIS lens on my G80 and G9 bodies.
It won't auto focus and comes up wit "R9" in the bottom right corner of the screen.
Is it knackered?
 
Sangoma said:
I often use the 20mm pancake on a GX7, lovely combination for carrying around, and the standard zoom that came with the GX7 isn't much bigger.
I've never found the focus speed of the 20mm to ba a problem, in fact don't notice it.
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How does the 16MP sensor hold up these days? I had one many moons ago and really enjoyed using it [with the 12-32mm kit lens]. I need a fairly compact kit and have always liked M4/3
Cheers!
 
I took my GX80 and 14mm f2.5 on holiday. Here's a picture taken with it of Mrs WW looking at pictures on a Sony I also took.

P1090142.jpg
 
A "Fault Code 9" (often appearing as "Please turn camera off and then on again") on a Panasonic Lumix G9 usually indicates a power-related failure, often associated with the mechanical shutter or a communication error between the battery and the camera. [1, 2]

 
Crotal Bell said:
Just popped my old 100-300 Mega OIS lens on my G80 and G9 bodies.
It won't auto focus and comes up wit "R9" in the bottom right corner of the screen.
Is it knackered?
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Does it give the same error on both cameras?
 
Sangoma said:
Does it give the same error on both cameras?
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Yes mate R9.

It moves freely and the manual focus ring turns but there's no focussing and in manual nothing happens.

Switch to auto-focus and nothing, pressing the shutter buttons they jam and don't want to fire, on both cameras they can sense the lens is not connecting and focussing.

My guess is, the outside slider is extending but the internal lenses have come loose.
 
Crotal Bell said:
Yes mate R9.

It moves freely and the manual focus ring turns but there's no focussing and in manual nothing happens.

Switch to auto-focus and nothing, pressing the shutter buttons they jam and don't want to fire, on both cameras they can sense the lens is not connecting and focussing.

My guess is, the outside slider is extending but the internal lenses have come loose.
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Not likely anything to do with the battery then.
The focussing ring is not mechanically connected to the optics, it sends a signal to the camera, and the camera sends one back to the lens to move the motor in the selected direction.

It may be worth trying to update the firmware in the lens, if it doesn't work it may give you another error that might help to determine the problem.
 
Sangoma said:
Not likely anything to do with the battery then.
The focussing ring is not mechanically connected to the optics, it sends a signal to the camera, and the camera sends one back to the lens to move the motor in the selected direction.

It may be worth trying to update the firmware in the lens, if it doesn't work it may give you another error that might help to determine the problem.
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Thanks Steve, I'll read up on how to update the firmware and see how I get on.
 
Crotal Bell said:
Thanks Steve, I'll read up on how to update the firmware and see how I get on.
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It is very straight forward, just use an empty card and format it in the camera, save the file onto the car, power on the camera and press the play button, then follow the instructions on the screen. Use a full battery.

Same procedure as updating the camera's firmware. The file type tell the camera what the file is for. Obviously the lens has to be on the camera :)
 
Sangoma said:
It is very straight forward, just use an empty card and format it in the camera, save the file onto the car, power on the camera and press the play button, then follow the instructions on the screen. Use a full battery.

Same procedure as updating the camera's firmware. The file type tell the camera what the file is for. Obviously the lens has to be on the camera :)
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Thank you mate
 
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