Fomapan Classic 100 - 120 Film and more.

Oldbones

Oldbones

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I am considering getting some of the above film Fomapan Classic 100 - 120 film for my Kershaw 630.
Have any of you used it and if so how did it do?

Also I have run a roll of Ilford HP5 Plus 400 through my Nikon FG-20, Which I was sort of pleasantly surprised with as they all came out better than expected, but fairly grainy. Especially when I crop.
The photographs were taken on a bright sunny day, and of course by me who is not very experienced with film.
Is 400 too high an ISO for bright sunny days.

I look at other Black and white images and they look fine compared to mine.
Adding that I have learned a lot about photography since I did takes these photographs, and I would take these again but in a totally different manner and perhaps conditions.

001-256f0.jpg

005-d95b3.jpg
 
Two nice scenes there which in my opinion would suit Fomapan 100 very nicely and which is considered a "traditional grain" type emulsion. I have had my best results with the film when shot at an Exposure Index of 50. There are a couple of caveats for its use IMO, my best results, in 120 format, have come when the camera is mounted on a tripod.

Here is why, using Sunny 16 as an illustration.
Shutter speed on a bright sunny day is the reciprocal of the iso at an f stop of 16. So if you shoot "at box" speed, the shutter speed is 100. If you shoot the film at EI 50, which many have established as the films "optimum speed" then the shutter speed would have to be 50 at F16.
Therein lies the first problem, you are already below the recommended speed for hand holding a lens of 100mm, and that on a bright sunny day, which potentially introduces image problems, camera shake etc, not of the films making. That is not to say that the hurdle cannot be overcome with practice and good technique.
One solution to mitigate that potential problem would be to reduce the aperture by a stop. Our new base line for the film and lens combination on a bright sunny day is now ISO 50, shutter speed 100 at F11.
When considering the scene, for example the washing in the wind, through either experience or a guide table we might consider that a minimum shutter speed of 200 is required. So on a perfect bright clear sunny day to freeze anything that is moving we are ISO 50 speed 200 at F8,
Suppose its a light cloudy day but still bright we lose another stop 50, 200, 5.6,
on an overcast day we lose another stop 50 200 4
Heavily overcast to take a photo of the washing with the Fomapan 100 on a cloudy grey day would be 200th second at F2.8, That is a full 2 1/2 stops below what the lens on that camera is capable of.
Stick to the ISO 400 and we get two of those stops back.
The same procedure on your first scene, full bright sun to full shade, with black which needs detail, would also lead me to the conclusion that in a situation where the only option is hand held that 400 ISO film would be preferable,
 
I'm wary of fomapan as the last 120 roll I used the sticky security tape stuck inside the camera which made it difficult to wind on and then stuck it inside the camera.

For cheap B & W I'd use Ilford Kentmere instead. It seems to generally look a bit nicer.

Sunny 16 is the easiest rule to remember. 1 over box speed at F16 for full sun and you work your way down. Film is generally more tolerant of over exposure than under.

greatbigphotographyworld.com

What is the Sunny 16 Rule and How to Use it?

Have you ever heard of the Sunny 16 Rule? This is a great concept to learn to better understand exposure and gain confidence while shooting.
greatbigphotographyworld.com greatbigphotographyworld.com

Cropping will always make things appear more grainy as you are losing some information and also making another jpg version of it which is compressing it some more.

The smoothest B & W film is actually the Ilford XP2 which is their C41 kind of black and white. That always turns out well. It's not as cheap as Fomapan but it is easier to lab develop and scans really well.

The more film you use the better results you get. A lot of it is just practice.
 
Barney said:
Two nice scenes there which in my opinion would suit Fomapan 100 very nicely and which is considered a "traditional grain" type emulsion. I have had my best results with the film when shot at an Exposure Index of 50. There are a couple of caveats for its use IMO, my best results, in 120 format, have come when the camera is mounted on a tripod.

Here is why, using Sunny 16 as an illustration.
Shutter speed on a bright sunny day is the reciprocal of the iso at an f stop of 16. So if you shoot "at box" speed, the shutter speed is 100. If you shoot the film at EI 50, which many have established as the films "optimum speed" then the shutter speed would have to be 50 at F16.
Therein lies the first problem, you are already below the recommended speed for hand holding a lens of 100mm, and that on a bright sunny day, which potentially introduces image problems, camera shake etc, not of the films making. That is not to say that the hurdle cannot be overcome with practice and good technique.
One solution to mitigate that potential problem would be to reduce the aperture by a stop. Our new base line for the film and lens combination on a bright sunny day is now ISO 50, shutter speed 100 at F11.
When considering the scene, for example the washing in the wind, through either experience or a guide table we might consider that a minimum shutter speed of 200 is required. So on a perfect bright clear sunny day to freeze anything that is moving we are ISO 50 speed 200 at F8,
Suppose its a light cloudy day but still bright we lose another stop 50, 200, 5.6,
on an overcast day we lose another stop 50 200 4
Heavily overcast to take a photo of the washing with the Fomapan 100 on a cloudy grey day would be 200th second at F2.8, That is a full 2 1/2 stops below what the lens on that camera is capable of.
Stick to the ISO 400 and we get two of those stops back.
The same procedure on your first scene, full bright sun to full shade, with black which needs detail, would also lead me to the conclusion that in a situation where the only option is hand held that 400 ISO film would be preferable,
Click to expand...
Thank you so much, I will have to take time to digest all of this information, and of course do some photography and get film devoloped.
 
Oldbones said:
Thank you so much, I will have to take time to digest all of this information, and of course do some photography and get film devoloped.
Click to expand...

You're Welcome, good luck and happy shooting !
 
I really like the Fomapan films, but I only use them in their 35mm versions at present as I've had constant issues with white speckles on the 120 and large format variants.

Don't shoot Fomapan 400 at 400asa though. Overexpose it to 200asa. It tends to underexpose at box speed.

400 speed film is fine for sunny day as long as your camera has fast enough shutter speeds. I expect the Kershaw 630 may be limited in that regard though, so a slower rated film might be a better choice.
 
srichards said:
I'm wary of fomapan as the last 120 roll I used the sticky security tape stuck inside the camera which made it difficult to wind on and then stuck it inside the camera.

For cheap B & W I'd use Ilford Kentmere instead. It seems to generally look a bit nicer.

Sunny 16 is the easiest rule to remember. 1 over box speed at F16 for full sun and you work your way down. Film is generally more tolerant of over exposure than under.

greatbigphotographyworld.com

What is the Sunny 16 Rule and How to Use it?

Have you ever heard of the Sunny 16 Rule? This is a great concept to learn to better understand exposure and gain confidence while shooting.
greatbigphotographyworld.com greatbigphotographyworld.com

Cropping will always make things appear more grainy as you are losing some information and also making another jpg version of it which is compressing it some more.

The smoothest B & W film is actually the Ilford XP2 which is their C41 kind of black and white. That always turns out well. It's not as cheap as Fomapan but it is easier to lab develop and scans really well.

The more film you use the better results you get. A lot of it is just practice.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much, Now I will go and look up Ilford XP2, and try and compose my shots so that cropping will be down to zero or as close to zero as I can get..
 
Last night I did download the FG-20 users manual and studied the part on how to meter using F stops and Shutter speed along with the light meter. I think I took it in and time will tell.
So off I went this morning, with only my FG-20 and 50mm prime, and the remainder of a roll of Ilford HP5 Plus 400 and a New roll of Kentmere Pan 200 in my pocket.
No digital at all, just that.
I went to Aberdeen, down to the dock/beach area, easy parking and loads to see and do.
First place I went was St Clements Church yard on East Street, ancient place and Interesting. My first time there but I have passed it many times.
Well I am no Sherlock but the remains of drug use and articles from , lets say, night time business was very evident.
The grave stones were amazing and I will go back in day time to record some more.
Then I made my way to the beach, it was still early and not many people about.
I was confident with the camera, the weather did help because it was not that harsh light I am used to.
The village of Fitty (Footdee) looked good and during my travels I did start talking to people.
One told me of a small independent bakery, so I went and paid a visit, bought a croissant and a coffee.
This was turning into a very pleasant and relaxing morning out.
The baker at work was the last frame I took on the Ilford HP5 Plus 400.
Changed the film to Kentmere Pan 200 (that was fun) and proceeded back to the beach, which was now lively.
All in all I took about 25 photographs, but mostly had a very nice and relaxing time.
Thought to myself I need to keep notes on things so I can workout what works for me once I get the photographs back.
 
Yes I want bargain prices especially until I start getting better with my SLR, if I get good results with what I have it will encourage me to get better film to then use.
 
Oldbones said:
Yes I want bargain prices especially until I start getting better with my SLR, if I get good results with what I have it will encourage me to get better film to then use.
Click to expand...
Fair enough but don't discount cheap film (such as Kentmere) altogether. You will get more than acceptable (often good to very good) results with it. Yes, use "better" film as well but consider that as another option in your film photography. In a number of instances you won't "see" an exponential increase in quality over budget films.
 
It's also worth buying when there are offers on. Analogue wonderland often do buy 5 for the cost of 4 rolls on with Ilford film so that can be a good way to save and get a better film for close to the budget end prices too.

analoguewonderland.co.uk

Black and White Film

Shop at Analogue Wonderland for black and white film. View our collection of black and white film in 35mm, 120, 127 and more today. Shop Now!
analoguewonderland.co.uk analoguewonderland.co.uk
 
Analogue Wonderland is where I get my film from and I send it back when ready.
I have two rolls of Fomapan and one Kentmere and one Kodak Gold left in my stocks, 35mm.
But I really need to get some 120 to get on with the Kershaw camera that I was given.
I already went through a roll in that camera and wasted it, because I did not know what I was doing and the second roll I am sure that I have done a couple of double exposures.
That what happens when I take a digital and analogue camera out on the same trip, lesson learned there is all I can say.
And I owe it to the gentleman who gave it to me to post some proper photographs on here from it.
 
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Oldbones said:
Analogue Wonderland is where I get my film from and I send it back when ready.
I have two rolls of Fomapan and one Kentmere and one Kodak Gold left in my stocks, 35mm.
But I really need to get some 120 to get on with the Kershaw camera that I was given.
I already went through a roll in that camera and wasted it, because I did not know what I was doing and the second roll I am sure that I have done a couple of double exposures.
That what happens when I take a digital and analogue camera out on the same trip, lesson learned there is all I can say.
And I owe it to the gentleman who gave it to me to post some proper photographs on here from it.
Click to expand...

120 is generally more awkward to get right than 35mm. A lot of it is just practice and always winding on to the next available frame immediately after taking a photo without getting distracted by anything. I find that the hardest part as my brain oooh squirrels at something else the moment I've taken one picture :rolleyes:

You haven't had the second roll results back yet so you don't know how any have turned out. I'd wait for that then adjust what you do from that point.
 
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