and please use their services
4x5 Black & White film
- Thread starter Snapper73
- Start date
- Messages
- 5,326
- Edit My Images
- No
Any reason why you wouldn't use the B&W film that I'm (assuming) you are familiar with from smaller formats? 
I use the same emulsions for both 35mm and 120 (aside from Tri-X, which I find a little too grainy at 35mm level - but you are going bigger, not smaller).
I use the same emulsions for both 35mm and 120 (aside from Tri-X, which I find a little too grainy at 35mm level - but you are going bigger, not smaller).
OP
Snapper73
Junior Member
- Messages
- 1,496
- Name
- Scott
- Edit My Images
- Yes
Any reason why you wouldn't use the B&W film that I'm (assuming) you are familiar with from smaller formats?
I use the same emulsions for both 35mm and 120 (aside from Tri-X, which I find a little too grainy at 35mm level - but you are going bigger, not smaller).
I'm not that overly familiar with any B&W film i've shot on 35 & 120 as I use all kinds of stuff i've picked up. I've just got some Tri-X 400 in 120 so going to give that a blast. Its also comes down to budget dont really want to spend over £50 on 25 sheets
- Messages
- 29,992
- Name
- George.
- Edit My Images
- No
Hi, I shoot 5X4 quite a bit I can assure you grain on 5x4 will not be a problem with any of these films.
I've always found HP5 to be slightly smoother than Tri X but out of the two Tri X seems to be sharper. Both are very good films. FP4 will be finer grain, sharper, and have more contrast but is slower.
One of my favorite ways of shooting FP4 in bright contrasty conditions is to over expose by one stop and cut developement by 25%, ie expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights. Usually developed in ID11/D76 stock solution.
This will lower the contrast and give you a range of tones that are well suited to landscape/model work ie plenty of shadow detail without burning out the highlights.
Hope this helps.
I've always found HP5 to be slightly smoother than Tri X but out of the two Tri X seems to be sharper. Both are very good films. FP4 will be finer grain, sharper, and have more contrast but is slower.
One of my favorite ways of shooting FP4 in bright contrasty conditions is to over expose by one stop and cut developement by 25%, ie expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights. Usually developed in ID11/D76 stock solution.
This will lower the contrast and give you a range of tones that are well suited to landscape/model work ie plenty of shadow detail without burning out the highlights.
Hope this helps.