A query about Nikon's CLS...

Oli R C

Oli R C

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Hi,

With my mountain bike photography, I use my D200 with an off camera SB-800. My main problem is when 2 or more bikers come past in quick succession - Basically, something in the set-up is preventing me to shoot quick enough to get all the bikers. I'm not sure if it's the pop-up flash, the SB-800, or something else...

It happens whether I'm using the pop-up to contribute, or not. And I'm not sure if the amount of time I have to wait, coincides with the beep from the SB-800 which tells you it has recycled, although when used on camera, the SB-800 will fire multiple times in very quick succession, albeit at a decreasing output. And I'm using the extra battery on the SB-800.

Presumably radio triggers would solve this problem, but what about other options, like using a 2nd SB-800 (or the new SB-900 :D) ON-camera, or using the SU-800 Commander Unit???

Anyone got any thoughts???

Cheers (y)
 
Oli R C said:
Hi,

With my mountain bike photography, I use my D200 with an off camera SB-800. My main problem is when 2 or more bikers come past in quick succession - Basically, something in the set-up is preventing me to shoot quick enough to get all the bikers. I'm not sure if it's the pop-up flash, the SB-800, or something else...

It happens whether I'm using the pop-up to contribute, or not. And I'm not sure if the amount of time I have to wait, coincides with the beep from the SB-800 which tells you it has recycled, although when used on camera, the SB-800 will fire multiple times in very quick succession, albeit at a decreasing output. And I'm using the extra battery on the SB-800.

Presumably radio triggers would solve this problem, but what about other options, like using a 2nd SB-800 (or the new SB-900 :D) ON-camera, or using the SU-800 Commander Unit???

Anyone got any thoughts???

Cheers (y)
Click to expand...

Hmmmm, not specifically, but I use 2 SB800s, one on and one off camera. I also have the external battery pack to recharge the flash quicker when I'm only using the one, and I don't have your problem. Could it be the recharge time of the pop up flash is causing your problem - I seem to remember they are quite weak and take a while to recharge in comparison to the SB800.
 
Thanks barneyrubble.

Having just done a quick test with the pop-up, it has actually revealed that it probably is that. I just tried to fire a few quick shots and it wouldn't let me.

Not quite sure why I hadn't thought of doing it earlier!

So presumably a 2nd SB-800 is the way to go, but how do you then control the outputs of the separate flashes? I assume you would no longer use the camera menu's, and would use the on-camera SB-800? But knowing how weird the menu in the SB-800 is, I'm not sure this would be a good thing? This may be where the SU-800 is better, but then I can't see the point in buying one of those over the SB-800, since the SB-800 flashes too, and doesn't cost much more.
:thinking:
 
All done on the Master (on camera) flash panel.

Stick the On camera one into Master mode. The other goes into remote mode. (i may get some of the terminologiy wrong here as I don't have them with me)

You then set up the remote one as Channel 1,2 or 3 and then you can change the flash compensatin on them, and the flash mode as well.

It's a lot easier than I have made it sound there :bonk::bonk::bonk::bonk:

The only thing to remember is to reset all the settings at the endf of a shoot, as I have often just picked up an SB800 2 days later, shot with it to find it is in remote mode
 
Nice one. Doesn't sound too bad, so maybe this is the route I should be going down.

Thanks for the help, and the tip (y)
 
Oli R C said:
So presumably a 2nd SB-800 is the way to go, but how do you then control the outputs of the separate flashes? I assume you would no longer use the camera menu's, and would use the on-camera SB-800? But knowing how weird the menu in the SB-800 is, I'm not sure this would be a good thing? This may be where the SU-800 is better, but then I can't see the point in buying one of those over the SB-800, since the SB-800 flashes too, and doesn't cost much more.
:thinking:
Click to expand...

The SU800 apparently has a better menu, but unfortunately funds have not allowed me to purchase it.

The SU800 apparently has twice the range as the sb800 for controlling remote flashes, and doen't use preflashes to control the remotes, it uses IR apparently.
 
Yeah, definitely uses IR, and in some ways would definitely be better. I'd be very interested to know how well it's range works. Sometimes I can get my pop-up to trigger my SB-800 when it's quite well hidden, but I can't see IR being able to do the same :thinking:
 
A radio trigger will be infinitely better for your aims.

CLS is rubbish for moving subjects I think as the delay between pressing the shutter and the photo being taken is too long due to all the pre-flashing that goes on, meaning you will not get the shot you thought you would.

I'd go radio, the cactus triggers are relatively cheap compared to another sb800/900 and are practically instantaneous compared to cls.
 
Yep. I've certainly been giving radio triggers more thought today. You're right that there is a slight delay in the shutter using CLS, but I do love the way you control the output of all the flashes, from the camera.

Where can you get Cactus Triggers from in this country? I've looked, but it seems you can only get them in America? Is it an import job?

I do like the look of them, but really, I'm even considering Pocket Wizards.
 
but I do love the way you control the output of all the flashes, from the camera
Click to expand...

I agree, from a creativity point of view, this is pretty vital.
 
This is why flash guns have a manual mode!

AFAIK you'll have to import them, either from US or HK. There are some on ebay but I haven't really looked for a UK supplier yet.
 
Go the radio route and learn how to set a flash!

Instead of expecting the flashgn to work it all out - to start with you could set the gun to A mode and then just choose one stop more open on the flash than on the camera. It is a good starting point. One stop less, or a touch more, gives a good boost to the lighting without becoming too obtrusive - I prefer that people looking at my pictures can't see my flash lighting. If you want to really pop your subject - underexpose the ambient by 0.5 stop, mybe a full stop, and hit the subject with flash set at 0.3 under or correct amount (I prefer just under, it is usually enough.)
You will get to feel for the amount to give it, but err on the under rather than give it too much.
 
Not sure what makes you think I don't know how to set a flash. I shoot in manual EVERYTHING!
 
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