AF issue. Lens or body?

The23rdman said:
This doesn't explain why it worked fine for some girls and completely not for others.

EDIT: Maybe it does. I'll look at the ones I missed and see if they're the less talented dancers...
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Surely the points at user error? Sorry if that sounds harsh but I had quite a few deletes at a recent airshow amongst some great shots, so put that down to me!
 
I'm not convinced that is the case at all.
 
Anyone near you who can try the lens in similar conditions? (incase the lens need calibration or something). At least you can then rule out the d7000 as the problem (although you do mention that with the 35mm it was fine?). Also, silly q's prolly but why didn't you use the 35mm? Or does it put you too close?
 
ecniv said:
Anyone near you who can try the lens in similar conditions? (incase the lens need calibration or something). At least you can then rule out the d7000 as the problem (although you do mention that with the 35mm it was fine?). Also, silly q's prolly but why didn't you use the 35mm? Or does it put you too close?
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It is nothing to do with the kit, setting S single servo then trying to take a shot of a subject that can move with the camera hand held is the problem.

There is absolutely no way that the photographer can rule out either he moved or the subject moved after the camera has locked focus, being in S single servo prevents the camera adjusting focus should this happen.

Camera needs to be set to C continuous servo to allow it to adjust for this movement.
 
Martyn... said:
It is nothing to do with the kit, setting S single servo then trying to take a shot of a subject that can move with the camera hand held is the problem.

There is absolutely no way that the photographer can rule out either he moved or the subject moved after the camera has locked focus, being in S single servo prevents the camera adjusting focus should this happen.

Camera needs to be set to C continuous servo to allow it to adjust for this movement.
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Never had a similar problem before.
 
Dean i said earlier in the thread that "Single shot" is no good, you need to use tracking by setting the camera to "C"
 
Martyn... said:
Can you confirm that you set the focus switch on the front of the camera to 'S', just to make sure I am not misunderstanding the settings you used.
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The D7000 doesn't work like that. It was set to AF-S though.
 
ecniv said:
Anyone near you who can try the lens in similar conditions? (incase the lens need calibration or something). At least you can then rule out the d7000 as the problem (although you do mention that with the 35mm it was fine?). Also, silly q's prolly but why didn't you use the 35mm? Or does it put you too close?
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Compression. It was too wide an angle and allowed too much of the background I couldn't control into the shot.
 
The23rdman said:
The D7000 doesn't work like that. It was set to AF-S though.
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Cheers Dean

With AF-S once that was locked on the subject it would not adjust the focus if either you or the subject moved slightly, in AF-C it would.

Having used Nikon DSLRs for a fair few years I can not think of an occasion where I would use AF-S, always have it set to AF-C, however I do use back button focusing which allows me to stop the camera trying to alter focus or hunting, simply by releasing the rear button.
 
Martyn, I've only been using AF-S since speaking to a Nikon guy who suggested I did. As it is I think the body is out as I've just bought a new Sigma 50mm f/1.4 and it's still back focusing after -20 MA points. Every other lens I have has had to have between 6 and 12 - points too. I'm a bit peed off with it.

I back button focus as a rule, but the D7000 is just too damn small to do it comfortably.
 
The23rdman said:
Martyn, I've only been using AF-S since speaking to a Nikon guy who suggested I did. As it is I think the body is out as I've just bought a new Sigma 50mm f/1.4 and it's still back focusing after -20 MA points. Every other lens I have has had to have between 6 and 12 - points too. I'm a bit peed off with it.

I back button focus as a rule, but the D7000 is just too damn small to do it comfortably.
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I have only had one problem lens a 50G f1.4, same thing +/- 20 would not cure it, went straight back to WEX the replacement was spot on, no adjustment.

In the situation you were shooting those dancers I would have not used AF-S too much chance of either of you moving slightly.
 
The23rdman said:
Danny, I wasn't pre focusing on these mate. That was the action shots. I was backed up against the wall at 80mm as it was.

I don't use zooms often, but is it possible to zoom in, get a lock and zoom out?
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Only if the zoom lens is declared as Par Focal in its spec ~ as a Canon user, of all the various zooms they make I think there are only three that are Par Focal. I surmise much more expensive and complex to make that type of zoom???



As for why yuo are experiencing what you have shown.........:thinking:
 
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The23rdman said:
Not entirely sure. Still, if I put the focus point on the face and it misses we have a problem, don't we?
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I think viewnx allows you to see where the focus point was in fact im sure on the d7000 there is a setting to allow you to see the focus point on the lcd screen playback
 
Reckon its too dark to focus accurately, DESPITE the focus confirmation beep. This happens all the time with my nikons when it's too dark (D3, D300s) My suggestion - (FITP was pretty close with his too!) - Speedlight with AF grids. They will work a treat, I bet.
 
Put the camera back in the box, take it back, and switch back to that niggling thought that has been in your head ever since...... you went... to the dark side.... :LOL:

;)
 
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