All images are blurry on auto and manual focus (Sigma 150-500mm)

Looking at the last test photos, if these are typical of consistent results, it looks like it's back focusing a bit at 150mm, at the two longer focal lengths it seems about right. So don't shoot wide open at 150, use at least f/8 (preferably f/11) and see how that looks? If it's liveable with, then your sorted. If not, then weigh up how much it might cost to get it recalibrated (if Sigma can do that with a lens of that age) or whether that money might be better saved towards eventually buying a newer Sigma lens that's compatible with the Sigma dock, which will allow you to fine-tune the lens at different focal lengths, if there's a focus issue with it.

I had to re-calibrate the focus on a Sigma 100-400 I bought, which I found was front focusing. It's right now but it was a bit of a pain to do, as you have to produce consistent test shots at different focal lengths, then micro adjust the lens using the dock connected to a PC or laptop, then take test shots again to see if you've got it right, repeating this until it's spot on. It took me over half a day to do mine!

Still, I got there in the end, as you can see from this test shot at 400mm of a telegraph pole taken with my Mk1 6D. You'll also see the shallow depth of field when wide open at f6.3 at 400mm (click on the image to view large in Flickr to see this). I have to shoot at f/11 or smaller to get a nice smooth transition between foreground and background when taking landscape shots. With a full frame camera, the higher your camera's resolution and the sharper the lens, the more apparent this (and issues like camera shake) becomes! Best of luck and hope the above is useful. (y)

 
Looking back at my previous photos I notice they're not perfectly sharp, but the image quality is poor now. Anyway, I'm packing it away never to be seen again. I won't be sending it to Sigma. I'd rather buy a new lens.

Thanks for all your help.
 
Probably the sensible thing to do . Still worth a few Bob to someone on e.bay . But it will always be inferior in you4 own mind
 
Looking back at my previous photos I notice they're not perfectly sharp, but the image quality is poor now. Anyway, I'm packing it away never to be seen again. I won't be sending it to Sigma. I'd rather buy a new lens.

Thanks for all your help.
Before letting it grow moss, do try it at 1/1000 second (or faster) shutter speed and around f/11 in good sunny light and see if it looks any better. Getting a photo that only the reach of 500mm can give you is better than missing it completely, even if it's not as sharp as your 24-70 f/2 L lens, which, let's face it, not many lenses will be. (y)
 
Before letting it grow moss, do try it at 1/1000 second (or faster) shutter speed and around f/11 in good sunny light and see if it looks any better. Getting a photo that only the reach of 500mm can give you is better than missing it completely, even if it's not as sharp as your 24-70 f/2 L lens, which, let's face it, not many lenses will be. (y)

I'll try that when and if we get sun here.


Thought I might upload some photos taken with the lens when it was focusing better. The page is hidden on my website. Uploaded to 2500 long at 300 dpi
Click on a image to get a better view.

www.daelpixphotography.co.uk/sigma
Password is: focus

Edit: Just updated page with camera info

Edit, 14.03.21 - Deleted the page to create less confusion on my part
 
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I'll try that when and if we get sun here.


Thought I might upload some photos taken with the lens when it was focusing better. The page is hidden on my website. Uploaded to 2500 long at 300 dpi
Click on a image to get a better view.

www.daelpixphotography.co.uk/sigma
Password is: focus

Edit: Just updated page with camera info
It's sometimes hard to tell unless viewing an image at full size, but it appears it's never given really stellar results in terms of sharpness, and your high-res camera will magnify any shortcomings like that. To be honest, I'd be wanting at least 1/1000 when shooting at 400+mm when photographing wildlife that's twitching or moving about quickly (such as birds on a feeder), to freeze the movement. However, if it's slower moving stuff like a duck gliding slowly on water then you can get away with slower speeds to freeze the movement, and OS to minimise camera shake.

For comparison, here's a 'test shot' of a duck taken at 315mm with my 6D and Sigma 100-400 (after recalibrating the focus) taken at similar shutter speed and aperture to your mallard photo (but not quite as artistic as yours!). I think the Sigma 100-400 probably has the edge on your 150-500 (as expected, as it's a newer design), but your camera is better than mine, so swings and roundabouts for detail there. As I've said a few times above, at the telephoto end I have to use an aperture of f/11 or smaller to get much depth of field, as it's pretty narrow at 400 and will be even thinner at 500, so it's easy to miss the focus point with a quick moving animal. Probably why those bird photographers like crop sensor cameras, which (in addition to the crop factor magnification) will give a wider depth of field than a full frame camera.

 
I've had this lens, its a budget zoom lens. Its fine when you get used to its foibles. Most models are soft at 500mm, tickle it back to 490 or 480. The sweet aperture is like most zooms f8, but its reasonable at one or two wider. I'd trust the factory calibration initially at least, they usually set them up pretty good. I found the VR to be pretty good, if a bit noisy. Its a fair lens, don't expect it to do as well as a top end prime, and respect its limitations. I sold mine for a prime after two years.
 
@Mr Badger Still no decent sunlight here. But I won't forget to test the lens (y)
 
maybe the lens is knackered so its time to renew it for a new one :clap:

told you to get a new lens see how frustrated you are now
if you use it on your canon buy a canon lens far superior to 3rd party len's
 
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