Baby pics and Setup explained
- Thread starter Glen
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Considering the flash you used the light is amazingly even.
Really good captures you have there, I really like them
Really good captures you have there, I really like them
..MD..
Helen Shapiro
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- MonkeyDave
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well done mate nice set that .. ive got some lights on the way . i hope when i get them some of my shots are as good as thosetfs
md
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- Paul
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They are superb. Would you mind sharing how you set those shots up? (I would have thought you'd need a studio setup to get those pics)
Thanks
Paul
OP
Glen
Uncle Glen
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- Glen
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No probs, setup as follows:-
In my conservatory with the light (natural window) coming in from the left mainly, but also all around (shot around 10am)
2 pieces of 12mm 1200x1200mm square MDF, painted with plain old white emulsion.
Lay one on the floor, then place the other behind, thus creating an 'L' shape if you like.
Then all I did before 'Harry' arrived was to place a test object in the middle of the board on the floor and fire away until I was happy with the settings.
The settings I went for in the end was (Canon 30d) 'AV' mode, with aperture around f8, ISO was 200, then on my flash (430ex) i put it on manual mode and set it to 1/4 I think?
To be honest I can't remember if my actual shots had my Gary Fong Lightsphere on, or I actually got a better light from just bouncing the flash gun up off the ceiling? (Sorry)
Then once you've taken your shots (I did around 30) the processing was as follows:-
I shot these just as high res jpeg setting, not RAW. In Photoshop open up the pic-
Open up your curves pallet, select your 'White' eye dropper (far right of the 3) then find an area on the background (1) and select it, this then sets your white point, the result of this you can see here-
You may have to click on a couple of areas until you get the right feel/result, but once you've done a few the rest are easy. Then all you have left is the 'join' between the 2 boards, again try with your 'white' point dropper, but you will have to watch that it doesn't blast your highlights, finally just waft over with the eraser brush to clean up any left over join (2), then sharpen to suit-
It may seem slightly long winded, but once you get the feel from the first couple of images, the rest are very simple. Its an easy option if you've not got any studio lighting, if you did have a studio setup, be it 2 or more lights then you would get this result straight off:-
This was taken with a white background, with a white painted board on the floor, 2 lights to 'blast' away the background and 2 lights for the model. This was taken on a course I did around a year ago, please see this link I made about the course, it may help
http://gkdigital.co.uk/doc/StudioPortraitCourseReview.pdf
Cheers
In my conservatory with the light (natural window) coming in from the left mainly, but also all around (shot around 10am)
2 pieces of 12mm 1200x1200mm square MDF, painted with plain old white emulsion.
Lay one on the floor, then place the other behind, thus creating an 'L' shape if you like.
Then all I did before 'Harry' arrived was to place a test object in the middle of the board on the floor and fire away until I was happy with the settings.
The settings I went for in the end was (Canon 30d) 'AV' mode, with aperture around f8, ISO was 200, then on my flash (430ex) i put it on manual mode and set it to 1/4 I think?
To be honest I can't remember if my actual shots had my Gary Fong Lightsphere on, or I actually got a better light from just bouncing the flash gun up off the ceiling? (Sorry)
Then once you've taken your shots (I did around 30) the processing was as follows:-
I shot these just as high res jpeg setting, not RAW. In Photoshop open up the pic-
Open up your curves pallet, select your 'White' eye dropper (far right of the 3) then find an area on the background (1) and select it, this then sets your white point, the result of this you can see here-
You may have to click on a couple of areas until you get the right feel/result, but once you've done a few the rest are easy. Then all you have left is the 'join' between the 2 boards, again try with your 'white' point dropper, but you will have to watch that it doesn't blast your highlights, finally just waft over with the eraser brush to clean up any left over join (2), then sharpen to suit-
It may seem slightly long winded, but once you get the feel from the first couple of images, the rest are very simple. Its an easy option if you've not got any studio lighting, if you did have a studio setup, be it 2 or more lights then you would get this result straight off:-
This was taken with a white background, with a white painted board on the floor, 2 lights to 'blast' away the background and 2 lights for the model. This was taken on a course I did around a year ago, please see this link I made about the course, it may help
http://gkdigital.co.uk/doc/StudioPortraitCourseReview.pdf
Cheers
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Glen - a brilliant explaination of 'how it's done'
We need more of this to help so many of us - the pictures are pretty blooming good too !
I hope some of us will take the time, if we can remember, to write up how we did it - I struggle with Elements, but a concise explaination like yours help loads
Thanks,
Steve
We need more of this to help so many of us - the pictures are pretty blooming good too !
I hope some of us will take the time, if we can remember, to write up how we did it - I struggle with Elements, but a concise explaination like yours help loads
Thanks,
Steve
