Best UV filter

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Steve
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Hi all :wave:

I'm after an 82mm UV filter but which is the best quality and how do I judge before buying? is it light transmission? Price not the issue :D
 
Thanks for the replies :clap: but what I would like to know is what makes a good filter? if I look at a data sheet showing light transmission curves etc. what should I look for :thinking:

Steve
 
Are you sure you want a UV filter at all. I have UV filters for all my lens and use them on none. They degrade image quality and do not necessarily provide the protection you may wish. I use hoods for my physical lens protection. I would only use the filters in harsh conditions like flying dust/sand/mud. For regular shooting - at home, weddings, the zoo etc. they stay off my lenses. I would consider using them at a car rally or windy day at the beach.

See here....

- http://www.vanwalree.com/optics/filterflare.html

If you must go ahead with your purchase then B+W filters are very highly regarded, as well as the Hoya Pro1 range. I use Hoya Pro1 and I do notice that contrast is lowered with the filter in place. That's why I try to avoid using it. There are some threads which illustrate truly shocking IQ degradation caused by filters. Check this out....

- http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=61214
- http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=117146
 
Thanks for the replies :clap: but what I would like to know is what makes a good filter? if I look at a data sheet showing light transmission curves etc. what should I look for :thinking:

Steve

Light transmission is important but you also want multi-coated surfaces to reduce internal reflections, which cause flare. I don't know what measurements are applied to the coating technology.
 
Are you sure you want a UV filter at all. I have UV filters for all my lens and use them on none. They degrade image quality and do not necessarily provide the protection you may wish. I use hoods for my physical lens protection. I would only use the filters in harsh conditions like flying dust/sand/mud. For regular shooting - at home, weddings, the zoo etc. they stay off my lenses. I would consider using them at a car rally or windy day at the beach.

See here....

- http://www.vanwalree.com/optics/filterflare.html

If you must go ahead with your purchase then B+W filters are very highly regarded, as well as the Hoya Pro1 range. I use Hoya Pro1 and I do notice that contrast is lowered with the filter in place. That's why I try to avoid using it. There are some threads which illustrate truly shocking IQ degradation caused by filters. Check this out....

- http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=61214
- http://www.birdforum.net/showthread.php?t=117146

Many thanks for the reply (y)
You're spot on, I also have stopped using filters on my main lenses (100-400L and 180L) for the same reason, I have just ordered the 16-35 L and really would like to give it some weather protection as apparantly it's not weather proof without a filter :cautious: and I'm a bit worried the lens hood will not give decent protection from knocks with a wide angle lens like this? but I want to retain the highest image quality I can :)

Steve
 
I agree with tdodd. Any decent lens will have a plethora of coatings on it and one of them is certain be for UV, so a UV filter is really redundant on most modern lenses. I never use protection filters, I feel that a lenshood gives adequate protection in most circumstances. I can see the need for a protection filter in extreme circumstances, and to be fair, Canon recommend a filter to protect against ingress of water past the front element even with weatherproof lenses when it's very wet.

You've paid serious wonga for a lens with top quality optical glass, and very hi tech coatings which aid light transmission and colour saturation. Why degrade it by sticking an inferior filter in front of it? Good quality filters are expensive for a reason.
 
I agree with tdodd. Any decent lens will have a plethora of coatings on it and one of them is certain be for UV, so a UV filter is really redundant on most modern lenses. I never use protection filters, I feel that a lenshood gives adequate protection in most circumstances. I can see the need for a protection filter in extreme circumstances, and to be fair, Canon recommend a filter to protect ingress of water past the front filter even with weatherproof lenses when it's very wet.

You've paid serious wonga for a lens with top quality optical glass, and very hi tech coatings which aid light transmission and colour saturation. Why degrade it by sticking an inferior filter in front of it Good quality filters are expensive for a reason.

Thanks CT and very much appreciated (y) What you have said is the reason for the post, I would prefer not to use a filter, but I know there will be occasions when I would rather have some protection for the lens, so I would like to buy the best quality filter that I can, as I said in the OP money is not the issue, I would like to judge a filter on facts rather than the sales blurb, if I can :)

Thanks again
Steve
 
Thanks CT and very much appreciated (y) What you have said is the reason for the post, I would prefer not to use a filter, but I know there will be occasions when I would rather have some protection for the lens, so I would like to buy the best quality filter that I can, as I said in the OP money is not the issue, I would like to judge a filter on facts rather than the sales blurb, if I can :)

Thanks again
Steve

Fait comment. Interestingly, lenses like the Canon 500L and 600L have a very deep lens hood for protection, there's no way you'd get filters in those sizes anyway. The rain would have to be virtually horizontal to hit the front element on my 500L, and I've used it some some pretty severe weather with no probs yet (touiching wood).

I can see your concerns with a wide angle lens, but then again, some of the more extreme ones have a front element standing proud of the lens and wont take a filter anyway.

If I was really concerned, my kit wouild be under cover, and me with it, before I exposed it to too much risk. :D
 
I'm pretty sure it's going to be B+W and Hoya Pro1 you should look at more closely.


Thanks Tdodd :D I'll look at the B+W filters (y)

Steve
 
If I was really concerned, my kit wouild be under cover, and me with it, before I exposed it to too much risk. :D

:LOL: No gain without pain ;)
 
The Hoya Pro 1 are slimmer than the B&W (I have both). The light transmission of the Hoya and the coatings are excellent. The B&W are heavier rings but the glass is also thicker.

Hoya make most of the filters in the world - they are Tokina in fact.

B&W use Schott glass, from the schott glassworks in Germany. A well respected source.

Optically, you would need scientific instruments to show the difference (technically as good as each other, in practise each has a different "character").

I prefer the Hoya Pro 1 series because they are excellent optically, but also because for practical reasons they are much lighter and slimmer than the B&W ones. I used B&W on my medium format kit, but I stick Hoya on the portable kit.
 
I would completely concur with CT on this one, the only filters I use are Lee NDs, and a Lee polariser, the only downside is that their polariser gives a 2 stop drop. Also as an aside, I find the hood on the 500mm is a pain in a wind especially if using a monopod, as it acts like a sail and makes it less stable-but that's digressing. Must check on the 16-35 waterproof, though, I thought all the L series were able to stand up to a bit of rain, mine certainly has!!...and it still works fine!!
 
I have used Hoya Pro 1, but I read a thread on DPReview once about which filter? and one respondant said that both Hoya and B+W are optically excellent BUT the B+W is easier to clean! I too have found that cleaning a Hoya is a nightmare so when I needed new filters for a new lens, I purchased B+W. Trust me on first use of my new B+W it received a (accidental of course) big fingerprint right in centre frame and guess what? cleaning it off was a doddle.
 
Thanks to everyone for the information :clap:

Steve
 
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