Beginner Cheap Telephoto lens suggestions for D800 + Perspective compression advice

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Hi everyone, new to the forum!

I'm looking to purchase a decent SLR camera with the intention to take product photos for etsy, ebay etc. I have a requirement that I'd like the photos to eliminate, as much as possible, vertical perspective, since the main products I'd like to shoot are books and pads. I know I won't be able to eliminate it entirely but I'm just aiming to lose a reasonable amount so that say a book's edges appear vertical(ish).

What I presume I'm looking at is using a telephoto lens at distance to flatten the image as much as possible? My budget isn't huge so I was looking at getting a Nikon D800 second hand along with a lens. Could anyone give me some advice on if my idea is a good one, along with some lens suggestions? If it helps, I have around 3m-4m distance I'd be able to take the photos from.

Any advice much appreciated.
 
I’m not sure if your confusing converging verticals with flattened perspective.

To ensure verticals are straight and level you simply need to ensure your camera (sensor) is aligned with the book and you can use a simple hot shoe mounted bubble gauge or some cameras have a level that you can use. Once in lightroom or photoshop you can software correct any minor convergence left.

You may also need a lens that is flat across the frame rather than say a lens that cause distortion?

In your shoes I would buy a 50mm -100 macro lens (these have a flat focus field) and most importantly ensure the camera is straight and level in relation to the book. No need to go for a long telephoto as I don’t think flattening perspective is what your after.
 
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Just get a decent macro lens as they tend to be "flat focus" and have minimal lens distortions... something like a used Nikon/Sigma 105 would be fine. I personally prefer the Sigma 150/2.8 macro for most product photography.

"Compression" is not due to the lens nor focal length directly; it is caused by the perspective (subject distance/relative distances)... You can use any lens from the same distance/perspective and it will have the same compression; and you can crop the image from a wider lens to generate the same FOV/composition w/ the same compression a longer lens would result in.
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. Sorry for my lack of understanding in this area. It seems that what I'm after is indeed flattening the perspective. Say for instance that I want to photograph (from the front and slightly looking down on) a group of 3 books standing together, side by side I want to have all their edges reasonably vertical and eliminate perspective's effect on the edges of the frame. So the only way to get rid of that is by shooting from distance isn't it?

Again, apologies for my lack of terminology!
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. Sorry for my lack of understanding in this area. It seems that what I'm after is indeed flattening the perspective. Say for instance that I want to photograph (from the front and slightly looking down on) a group of 3 books standing together, side by side I want to have all their edges reasonably vertical and eliminate perspective's effect on the edges of the frame. So the only way to get rid of that is by shooting from distance isn't it?

Again, apologies for my lack of terminology!
I believe you'll be looking for a tilt shift lens to accommodate for that - similar to those that photograph architecture etc.
 
I believe you'll be looking for a tilt shift lens to accommodate for that - similar to those that photograph architecture etc.
That seems to be overkill! He can actually move the books and camera to achieve the same effect, something that is not possible with buildings!
 
Thanks for the replies everyone. Sorry for my lack of understanding in this area. It seems that what I'm after is indeed flattening the perspective. Say for instance that I want to photograph (from the front and slightly looking down on) a group of 3 books standing together, side by side I want to have all their edges reasonably vertical and eliminate perspective's effect on the edges of the frame. So the only way to get rid of that is by shooting from distance isn't it?

Again, apologies for my lack of terminology!
If you are shooting slightly down on the spines then the lack of parallel lines is simply linear perspective where parallel lines converge over distance. There is no way to entirely eliminate that, but you can minimize it by shooting from a longer distance.

The reason shooting from a distance minimizes the effect is because the difference in distance between the top and the bottom of the spine is much less than the distance between the spine and the camera. I.e. their relative distances from the camera are nearly the same so they appear to be nearly the same distance and have nearly the same perspective (the differences are "compressed").

Of course, there are also tools that will allow you to fix that in post (lens/perspective correction).
 
I believe you'll be looking for a tilt shift lens to accommodate for that - similar to those that photograph architecture etc.
Assuming they are shooting down at an angle in order to get a more three dimensional image (not just the spines), then a shift lens won't help.
 
IMO a D800 will be massive overkill for the intended final use. I'd go for a lower spec body and spend the funds that'll free up on a better lens, probably the Nikkor 105mm f/2.8 or similar. Budget lenses on a D800 can be counterproductive - they really do like top quality lenses to give all their photosites a chance!
 
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