Displaying Photos at Home - Mounting to Foamboard?

[Carl Hall]

I haven't had many photos printed in the past but I'd like to do more with them now than just leaving them on a hard drive. I'm currently redecorating the home office and I'd like to get some of my images printed to go on the walls. My first thought was to mount and frame the prints, but as I'd like to change them every few months it makes it harder to have a range of mounts stored for various aspect ratios.

I was thinking of getting the images printed and then glueing them to foamboard which I can cut to be the right size, and then hang them on the wall with a hook or whatever on the back. Aspect ratio then doesn't matter as I can cut the board to suit each image. I'd probably include a small white border of an inch or so on the actual print so it looks like it's got a frame.

Before I try it and cock it up, just wondering if many other people do it this way, and if there are any tips or pitfalls to be aware of? I know you can get them professionally made but I'd like to keep the costs down if I can so that I can change them more frequently. I want to keep it simple/easy/cheap but I also want it to look professional and not like some idiot has pritsticked a wrinkly photo to a piece of badly cut board.

Cheers!

 

[admirable]

I have seen an image printed on sticky back plastic (used for commercial signs) and then stuck onto 8mm fomex, looks good.

 

[learningtofly]

The issue will be the "badly cut board", I imagine - if you don't keep the angle of the knife straight and consistent you're going to have some nasty edges. (Personally I'd just get them mounted when they're printed.)

 

[admirable]

The issue will be the "badly cut board", I imagine - if you don't keep the angle of the knife straight and consistent you're going to have some nasty edges. (Personally I'd just get them mounted when they're printed.)

This ^^^,

I should have mentioned the one I saw was cut & trimmed with a router type machine rather than a saw or knife.
To be fair it would have been hard to trim 8mm Fomex with a knife.

 

[AndrewFlannigan]

I used to do a lot of this. Spray adhesive seemed best to mount the print to the board and then cut out the picture with the blade angled slightly inwards to hide the cut edge of the foamboard. I like most of my prints borderless so I simply cut to the very edge of the image area.

 

[superpippo]

I have mounted photos on foam board in the past.

It is a cheap and quick way of producing something for the wall.
I have mounted 30" by 20" and A3 collage prints and they look fine
I have fixed them to the wall with small black headed map pins - other colours are available.

Kuuqa 1000 Pieces 1/8 inch Map Push Pins Map Tacks with Plastic Round Heads and Steel Needle Points 10 Colors (Each Color 100 PCS) : Amazon.co.uk: Stationery & Office Supplies

Buy Kuuqa 1000 Pieces 1/8 inch Map Push Pins Map Tacks with Plastic Round Heads and Steel Needle Points 10 Colors (Each Color 100 PCS) at Amazon UK. Free delivery on eligible orders.

www.amazon.co.uk

Those adhesive pads with hangers may be Ok.

I used 3M Photo mount spray adhesive. Like all glues, there is an art in getting the photo to stay flat without bubbles.

3M PhotoMount Spray Adhesive, 1 x 400 ml Can, Ideal for mounting photographs, prints and pictures: Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science

3M PhotoMount Spray Adhesive, 1 x 400 ml Can, Ideal for mounting photographs, prints and pictures: Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science

www.amazon.co.uk

Foamboard is easily cut with a straight edge and a craft knife and rarely do I get a jagged board. In my experience with that and other cutting, say wallpapering, the fault lies with me for not keeping a sharp blade in the knife. It is surprising how paper can blunt a steel blade so quickly. These knoves are good for the purpose:

Stanley Sm9 Snap Off Blade Knives (3) 2 10 150 : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Free delivery and returns on all eligible orders. Shop Stanley Sm9 Snap Off Blade Knives (3) 2 10 150.

www.amazon.co.uk

After a while (few years) the glue starts to deteriorate and corners may lift.
I used 5 mm board, which is light. But after some years, it begins to 'bow' and doesn't fit flat to the wall. I don't know whether that would happen with thicker board, say 10mm, but that is more expensive.
Black board is more expensive than white. Art discount is a good place - they are quite local to me so i can pick up rather than pay for postage. Their site is good anyway for seeing what is out there and a price comparison.

Search: 11 results found for "foam board"

Search: 11 results found for "foam board" - ARTdiscount

artdiscount.co.uk

As you state that you would want to keep changing the display after a few months, I think that this method is ideal.
For just a few pounds outlay at leat you can have a try.

Hope this helps.

PS edit after seeing previous reply, with which I agree.

 

[Stegosaurus]

I'd go thin MDF rather than foamboard which is horrible stuff.

 

[Peter123]

I've seen some printed directly onto 3mm pvc board. Looked fine and durable.
I'm not sure where this was done.

Re. mounting print on to 5mm (I assume) foam board, this sounds interesting. I have a mount cutter, will this cut the board?

 

[Carl Hall]

The issue will be the "badly cut board", I imagine - if you don't keep the angle of the knife straight and consistent you're going to have some nasty edges. (Personally I'd just get them mounted when they're printed.)

Yeah that was my main worry really. I guess the best DIY way would be to use a long straight edge and a fresh blade and then do it in one clean cut if you can.

 

[superpippo]

I've seen some printed directly onto 3mm pvc board. Looked fine and durable.
I'm not sure where this was done.

Re. mounting print on to 5mm (I assume) foam board, this sounds interesting. I have a mount cutter, will this cut the board?

Yeah that was my main worry really. I guess the best DIY way would be to use a long straight edge and a fresh blade and then do it in one clean cut if you can.

Blade is best I think

 

[superpippo]

Yeah that was my main worry really. I guess the best DIY way would be to use a long straight edge and a fresh blade and then do it in one clean cut if you can.

It is not that hard at all.
Some new blades and a good, preferably metal, straight edge and, as you say, a steady one cut.

 

[Carl Hall]

I have mounted photos on foam board in the past.

It is a cheap and quick way of producing something for the wall.
I have mounted 30" by 20" and A3 collage prints and they look fine
I have fixed them to the wall with small black headed map pins - other colours are available.

Kuuqa 1000 Pieces 1/8 inch Map Push Pins Map Tacks with Plastic Round Heads and Steel Needle Points 10 Colors (Each Color 100 PCS) : Amazon.co.uk: Stationery & Office Supplies

Buy Kuuqa 1000 Pieces 1/8 inch Map Push Pins Map Tacks with Plastic Round Heads and Steel Needle Points 10 Colors (Each Color 100 PCS) at Amazon UK. Free delivery on eligible orders.

www.amazon.co.uk

Those adhesive pads with hangers may be Ok.

I used 3M Photo mount spray adhesive. Like all glues, there is an art in getting the photo to stay flat without bubbles.

3M PhotoMount Spray Adhesive, 1 x 400 ml Can, Ideal for mounting photographs, prints and pictures: Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science

3M PhotoMount Spray Adhesive, 1 x 400 ml Can, Ideal for mounting photographs, prints and pictures: Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science

www.amazon.co.uk

Foamboard is easily cut with a straight edge and a craft knife and rarely do I get a jagged board. In my experience with that and other cutting, say wallpapering, the fault lies with me for not keeping a sharp blade in the knife. It is surprising how paper can blunt a steel blade so quickly. These knoves are good for the purpose:

Stanley Sm9 Snap Off Blade Knives (3) 2 10 150 : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Free delivery and returns on all eligible orders. Shop Stanley Sm9 Snap Off Blade Knives (3) 2 10 150.

www.amazon.co.uk

After a while (few years) the glue starts to deteriorate and corners may lift.
I used 5 mm board, which is light. But after some years, it begins to 'bow' and doesn't fit flat to the wall. I don't know whether that would happen with thicker board, say 10mm, but that is more expensive.
Black board is more expensive than white. Art discount is a good place - they are quite local to me so i can pick up rather than pay for postage. Their site is good anyway for seeing what is out there and a price comparison.

Search: 11 results found for "foam board"

Search: 11 results found for "foam board" - ARTdiscount

artdiscount.co.uk

As you state that you would want to keep changing the display after a few months, I think that this method is ideal.
For just a few pounds outlay at leat you can have a try.

Hope this helps.

PS edit after seeing previous reply, with which I agree.

Excellent, thanks for that, it's a great help!

Hobby Craft are quite local to me (post lock down, of course) so I'll try a couple of their pre-cut A2 5mm boards to start with and see how it goes. I'll just get each image printed at A2 and then after it's stuck down I can trim off the white space around the edges to get to the right size/ratio.

 

[Carl Hall]

I'd go thin MDF rather than foamboard which is horrible stuff.

Hmm that's an interesting option, I hadn't thought of that. Only problem is then I have to cut the MDF in the shed with power tools rather than on the kitchen table with a stanley knife. Also I'd need to paint the edges white to get rid of the MDF colour.

It is not that hard at all.
Some new blades and a good, preferably metal, straight edge and, as you say, a steady one cut.

Excellent, sounds simple enough. I've got a long metal straight edge for woodworking so that'll be perfect.

 

[Stegosaurus]

Hmm that's an interesting option, I hadn't thought of that. Only problem is then I have to cut the MDF in the shed with power tools rather than on the kitchen table with a stanley knife. Also I'd need to paint the edges white to get rid of the MDF colour.

Well, it's your choice! Good luck!

 

[Peter123]

Re. MDF.
I can cut hardboard with a sharp knife (I used to use for backing board, but these days corri fluted backing, or foam board is easier)

According to google
" Hardboard is more dense than MDF and HDF, making it less prone to warping while still lightweight. Hardboard is a very uniform and stable surface without a grain"

 

[Harlequin565]

I've tried...

- Picture rail, with nails and picture hanging wire between them, with prints hung from pegs: Doesn't work because it's pretty inaccesible with a desk in the way, and you can only hang prints in a line which means 2 or 3 landscape A3's and your wall is full.
- Traditional Print & Frame: This is the 2nd best way for me, but as you say, you're stuck with the photos.
- Foamboard with print, held up with velcro sticker things. Terrible to put together especially if you (like me) have non-standard print sizes because sticking a big print onto the cut board, whilst keeping it straight is a nightmare. Cutting it once stuck is easier, but not much because you can scuff the print whilst cutting round it. It also looks pretty rubbish (IMO). You also end up being stuck with the photos because you need to make a new print and cut new board to replace the existing one.
- Mountboard only: Just cut a mat, insert your photo, then stick the mat to the wall. Pretty good results with this as it's quick, and you can cut the mats to the same size, but just alter the window. Stuck to the wall with the same velcro sticky things. I wrote a TP tutorial on how to cut mounts here.
- Cork Wall & Pins: I've just finished redecorating my office and decided to do one wall with cork. I have semi-permanent prints on three smaller walls which I change once a year, and the cork wall gets naked prints stuck on it. (Posted a pic of my office on another TP thread here. Edit - link is not quite right, scroll to post 69)

 

[Carl Hall]

I've tried...

- Picture rail, with nails and picture hanging wire between them, with prints hung from pegs: Doesn't work because it's pretty inaccesible with a desk in the way, and you can only hang prints in a line which means 2 or 3 landscape A3's and your wall is full.
- Traditional Print & Frame: This is the 2nd best way for me, but as you say, you're stuck with the photos.
- Foamboard with print, held up with velcro sticker things. Terrible to put together especially if you (like me) have non-standard print sizes because sticking a big print onto the cut board, whilst keeping it straight is a nightmare. Cutting it once stuck is easier, but not much because you can scuff the print whilst cutting round it. It also looks pretty rubbish (IMO). You also end up being stuck with the photos because you need to make a new print and cut new board to replace the existing one.
- Mountboard only: Just cut a mat, insert your photo, then stick the mat to the wall. Pretty good results with this as it's quick, and you can cut the mats to the same size, but just alter the window. Stuck to the wall with the same velcro sticky things. I wrote a TP tutorial on how to cut mounts here.
- Cork Wall & Pins: I've just finished redecorating my office and decided to do one wall with cork. I have semi-permanent prints on three smaller walls which I change once a year, and the cork wall gets naked prints stuck on it. (Posted a pic of my office on another TP thread here. Edit - link is not quite right, scroll to post 69)

Sorry Ian, I thought I'd replied to this!

Thanks for the info, it's a great help I think I've decided that I'm going to have one single image above the desk which will be quite large (A1 or so) and then on the adjacent wall I'm going to have quite a few prints, but make them a lot smaller (A4 ish?). I've got a printer arriving tomorrow (an IP8750) so I'm planning on printing quite a lot of my photos now. If I print A4 instead of A3 then it keeps costs down a lot and means I can change them much more frequently. At work I used to hang technical drawings on a wall by using a device that had a small cylinder inside and when you pushed the paper up under it, it would catch it and hold, and to remove it you'd have to move the cylindrical piece up by hand. No idea what they are called but if there was a nicer version of those then I'd be tempted to stick a few to the wall and then just hang the prints on their own without any backing or mounts etc.

Thanks for the how-to on mount cutting! I'm not sure I'll be mounting my photos for the office, but I do have a couple of images that I've bought (2.5 years ago!) that are still in their tubes because I couldn't find mounts to fit. Your how-to means they might finally get on the wall!

 

[dweeble]

Foamboard can be a pig to cut. An alternative is to get a local timber merchant or DIY shed with a vertical panel saw to cut thin ply (or MDF) to size (allowing for a border), then paint it or varnish it and mount onto that. If 3.2mm or 4mm ply, it should be light enough to stick to the way with Command strips. You can mount the print two ways:

Float mounting. Google it, not so hard, looks very arty

Or just glue it on, ideally with ph neutral PVA. Not exactly archival but hey.