Do I need an adapter

Messages
4,375
Name
Neil Williams
Edit My Images
No
I have a few Profoto B1 heads and Im wondering if I would need an adapter to fit a Bowen soft box onto one of these heads?
Thanks
 
I have a few Profoto B1 heads and Im wondering if I would need an adapter to fit a Bowen soft box onto one of these heads?
Thanks
Hi Neil,

You'll need this or something like it to fit a Bowens mount softbox onto a Profoto head:-



Owen
 
Hi Neil,

You'll need this or something like it to fit a Bowens mount softbox onto a Profoto head:-



Owen
Thanks a lot mate. I also need to buy a new battery for one of my heads...........Fark there expensive out here in Asia:oops: :$:oops: :$:oops: :$
 
Okay so I ordered two adapters from China via Lazada (Asia equivalent to Amazon)
IMG_2349.jpegmy next question is what would be a good two light combination…… Softbox beauty dish, octabox strip light bla bla bla.
Going to be shooting boudoir kind of photography at home in a small confined area (about half the size of a regular size bedroom) then a one light beach sunset fill light kind of senator
 
If you’re doing full length boudoir you need as a big a modifier as you can fit in your space.

That means a 120cm or bigger octabox.

But in a really small space, if you’re going for only 2, I think a 120 strip box and a 90cm folding beauty dish (which you can use as a softbox, for fill, or as a beauty dish for doing something more dramatic as a keylight.
 
If you’re doing full length boudoir you need as a big a modifier as you can fit in your space.

That means a 120cm or bigger octabox.

But in a really small space, if you’re going for only 2, I think a 120 strip box and a 90cm folding beauty dish (which you can use as a softbox, for fill, or as a beauty dish for doing something more dramatic as a keylight.
Phil
Here is a picture of our home made studio, we need a few more props, I just ordered a couple of backgrounds from China……… the window light is beautiful and goes from the floor to the ceiling (we had a little session today already with just window light, I haven’t got around to looking at the files yet but at the time of shooting they looked good on the back of the camera)
I think the 120cm strip box is a great idea, for the beauty dish I need something a little bit more robust that can easily be thrown into the back of my truck when we go shooting outdoors.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2361.jpeg
    IMG_2361.jpeg
    104.7 KB · Views: 15
  • IMG_2362.jpeg
    IMG_2362.jpeg
    77.3 KB · Views: 15
Here is the beauty dish I’ve been looking at
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2366.jpeg
    IMG_2366.jpeg
    53.6 KB · Views: 5
  • IMG_2365.jpeg
    IMG_2365.jpeg
    74.4 KB · Views: 5
my next question is what would be a good two light combination…… Softbox beauty dish, octabox strip light bla bla bla.
Going to be shooting boudoir kind of photography at home in a small confined area (about half the size of a regular size bedroom) then a one light beach sunset fill light kind of senator

2 lights as a key, and kick is probably the foundation of all of my location work (inc "boudoir" which is s term bent out of all shape these days tbh). I'll sometimes add a third light as fill - bounced off the walls/ceiling behind me if it's white, or with a 120 octa if the walls are brown (these are the choices - white walls, or stained wood panels :p )

Apart from that optional fill light (and I often just use the ambient as fill anyway), I haven't used a softbox on location in years. Inside, I'll try and use Fresnel-focused incandescent or LED spotlights. I'm often exposing for the practical lights in the scene anyway (table lamps etc) and so a 650 Watt incandescent spotlight will do just fine. As I'm often placing the key and kick precisely using the focusing mechanism and the barn doors, being able to see the light is a real bonus over flash (if you're using a softbox, it's a very broad and vague light and easy to place - plus the modelling lights actually produce a dimmer version of the flash light in a softbox, so using flash isn't really any harder than using a continuous light in the same softbox).

If I need the power to control excess daylight though, I'll use flash, and to mimic those Fresnel spotlights, I use Godox AD200's with some DIY barn doors or an AD600 with a black reflector and barn doors from Aputure. A black reflector dish blocks the light from illuminating the entire room, whilst not making the light source bigger (and so ruining my shadow edges). I very often make my own sunlight by placing an AD200 outside up high, with a warming gel on it. If you understand lighting, you'll spot straight away that the light is not 93 million miles away, but most people accept it.

Here is a collection of images in this style. Some shot with Fresnel spots, (a combination of incandescent and LED) and some shot with flash, mostly AD200's with the Fresnel (Speedlight) head on. Some are a combination of both, and daylight mixed in etc. No softboxes though :p

WARNING: These are very definitely not safe for work. Click this at your own risk. You may see nipples. And bums (and apparently, your head explodes or something). If you then click on my profile and look at the rest of my stuff, you're definitely dead, and it's your own fault.
 
2 lights as a key, and kick is probably the foundation of all of my location work (inc "boudoir" which is s term bent out of all shape these days tbh). I'll sometimes add a third light as fill - bounced off the walls/ceiling behind me if it's white, or with a 120 octa if the walls are brown (these are the choices - white walls, or stained wood panels :p )

Apart from that optional fill light (and I often just use the ambient as fill anyway), I haven't used a softbox on location in years. Inside, I'll try and use Fresnel-focused incandescent or LED spotlights. I'm often exposing for the practical lights in the scene anyway (table lamps etc) and so a 650 Watt incandescent spotlight will do just fine. As I'm often placing the key and kick precisely using the focusing mechanism and the barn doors, being able to see the light is a real bonus over flash (if you're using a softbox, it's a very broad and vague light and easy to place - plus the modelling lights actually produce a dimmer version of the flash light in a softbox, so using flash isn't really any harder than using a continuous light in the same softbox).

If I need the power to control excess daylight though, I'll use flash, and to mimic those Fresnel spotlights, I use Godox AD200's with some DIY barn doors or an AD600 with a black reflector and barn doors from Aputure. A black reflector dish blocks the light from illuminating the entire room, whilst not making the light source bigger (and so ruining my shadow edges). I very often make my own sunlight by placing an AD200 outside up high, with a warming gel on it. If you understand lighting, you'll spot straight away that the light is not 93 million miles away, but most people accept it.

Here is a collection of images in this style. Some shot with Fresnel spots, (a combination of incandescent and LED) and some shot with flash, mostly AD200's with the Fresnel (Speedlight) head on. Some are a combination of both, and daylight mixed in etc. No softboxes though :p

WARNING: These are very definitely not safe for work. Click this at your own risk. You may see nipples. And bums (and apparently, your head explodes or something). If you then click on my profile and look at the rest of my stuff, you're definitely dead, and it's your own fault.
Thanks for the feedback Owen, you have some amazing pictures in your attached link.........very very nice
 
Back
Top