Filters…. which breed and what do I need?

swiftowl51

swiftowl51

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Name
Philip
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Hello. Some filter advice please:)
I’ve recently been on a landscape photography away day where I had use of some Lee filters. I have some Cokin filters for some time but the Lee filters were amazing. I’m now thinking that I’d like some of that quality but I wondered if there is an alternative to Lee that gives the same quality that I might look at?
I’ve seen magnetic filters (Kase I think) or Lee Elements which seem far easier to use but Lee looks expressive and has the need for multiple filters for different lenses, I suppose.
If I do get a Lee system, I want to use the filters on my Fuji X 18-55 and10-24. My So, I guess that I need a screw-in adapter for each size that fits the lens to the filter holder?
And, the 100mm system is the best one for those lenses?
I mainly shoot landscape so I think a couple of grads, a 10 stop and a polarisation filter would do for a start?
Appreciate your thoughts as there;s so many systems out there:)
 
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I haven't used my Lee filters for years, certainly not since I switched to Fuji in 2018. I should probably be talking them up, and getting them listed in the classifieds...

Personally, I prefer round filters, especially as my main motivation for switching to Fuji was to lighten my camera bag. I have some round ND filters, in 3, 6 and 10 stops, and a step-down ring to use them on my smaller lenses. And a polariser. The whole set-up is less than the size of a pack of cards. Rather than using grads, I use the bracketing feature on my camera and merge the images together in Lightroom.

If you still want the Lee system it is good, as you can combine filters, e.g. a grad and a polariser. I had the adaptor to fit a 105mm polariser to the front of the Lee filter holder. As you say, you then need an adaptor for each size lens you want to attach it to. You may need the ultra-wide adaptor for the 10mm end of your wide-angle lens. I would also add a 3-stop and/or 6-stop to your 10-stop ND filter, as 10-stop is often too much.
 
Thanks, Lewis.

I’ve done some research and I’m confused over the choices.

I love the idea of of the Kase magnetic 6 stop and 9 stop and polarising filters which can stack. But the grad filters wouldn’t have the flexibility of having it where I want it - a circular filter is fixed I guess.

The Lee Elements are pricey but I like the 6 to 9 stop bit I can’t combine it with granulated filters etc,.

So it could be back to a set 100mm Lee filters where I could get a 3,6,10 stop, polarising and a couple of granulated filters when I can afford them (I still prefer that to bracketing!).

Need to think on this one!
 
LongLensPhotography said:
Unless you shoot clean flat horizon grad filters are a terrible idea today. And very expensive at that
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I hadn't thought about that. I guess you substitute with post-taking processing instead?

(I'm not that good with editing afterwards!)
 
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LongLensPhotography said:
Unless you shoot clean flat horizon grad filters are a terrible idea today. And very expensive at that
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I disagree, you can make very good use of grads in a ststem like the Lee etc as the grad line can me rotated to accomodate sloping horizons and the med/soft grads lessen the split effect on stuff that protrudes into the horizon. I use them quite a lot with film where bracketting isn't an option but these days with digital modern sensors dynamic range they are less necessary also you can acheive the same effect in Lightroom (presumably other RAW processing softwares) and if you lift the shadows after reducing exposure in the grad it makes the graduation more natural looking.
 
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I dont use grads now, but tried a few systems over the years; Cokin/lee/K&F etc but ultimately worked out that I wanted the least amount of 'faff' possible, and have ended up with the Kase Magnetic Revolution Set (Polariser, 3 stop ND, 6 stop ND and 10 stop ND). They are great to use, have no colour cast and can be stacked. Couldnt recommend them highly enough.
 
I still use grads and ND's.

Formatt Hitech Firecrest for the grads and Hoya Pro HD for the circular ND's. No colour cast either (unlike the rather expensive LEE ones).
 
I used to use grads when my cameras didn't have the dynamic range that they do now. It's absolutely nonsense that they only work on a level, straight horizon but you do have to use the correct strength of grad and by that I mean the strength of the transition. Lee filters have Very Hard, Hard, Medium and soft grads.

With new modern cameras ND grads aren't really needed as you can usually get the shot in one or at worst two shots and use software to blend the exposures.

These days I only use round magnetic ND filters and a polariser. I'm also playing with a black mist filter at the moment.
 
Topsy said:
accomodate sloping horizons
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oh, yes another type of flat horizon.
Topsy said:
I use them quite a lot with film
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pretty self explanatory here
Topsy said:
acheive the same effect in Lightroom (presumably other RAW processing softwares) and if you lift the shadows after reducing exposure in the grad it makes the graduation more natural looking.
Click to expand...
so now you admit to problems with straight grads and try to fix it with a rather imperfect approach. We can now create any masks we need with just a few clicks. it is 2023 soon to turn 2024.

ecoleman said:
It's absolutely nonsense that they only work on a level, straight horizon but you do have to use the correct strength of grad and by that I mean the strength of the transition
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They will absolute go on the lens, and work their flat graduation, So technically that is correct. In practice, you are darkening part of your subject and may be quite substantially. Undoing this is no easy feat. You just don't go there without any serious need.

ecoleman said:
usually get the shot in one or at worst two shots and use software to blend the exposures.
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oh wow. two in the worst case. Are you like shooting phase one? I doubt even that would do it.
 
LongLensPhotography said:
oh, yes another type of flat horizon.

pretty self explanatory here

so now you admit to problems with straight grads and try to fix it with a rather imperfect approach. We can now create any masks we need with just a few clicks. it is 2023 soon to turn 2024.


They will absolute go on the lens, and work their flat graduation, So technically that is correct. In practice, you are darkening part of your subject and may be quite substantially. Undoing this is no easy feat. You just don't go there without any serious need.


oh wow. two in the worst case. Are you like shooting phase one? I doubt even that would do it.
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I’m interested to know the alternatives that you use to grad filters? :)
 
swiftowl51 said:
I’m interested to know the alternatives that you use to grad filters?
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At risk of getting into an argument, graduated filters were acceptable in the days of film because most people didn't have the ability to print at home, let alone the skills to mask for dodging and burning. The problem that came with a graduated filter, where anything sticking up above the horizon was affected by the filter too, was tolerated at the time for this reason.

In the early days of digital, cameras often had quite limited dynamic range, requiring a lot of care to prevent blowing skies and blocking shadows, and again software was often a bit more difficult to use, so people needed help controlling exposure and graduated filters were an acceptable compromise. It was quite common to see a tower or tree looking weirdly dark in comparison the the ground, because of the grad, and that's still evident in some images where a grad has been used on the wrong picture.

This is an example pulled at random from Flickr - not my photo - see the weird orange twigs at the top of the tree: Stone Walls by Derek, on Flickr

Now things have moved on quite a long way. We can apply graduated filters in software that hurt the image much less than a physical filter. We can also selectively mask as LLP says, and many applications will make the masking process easy. It's very hard to recommend a new user starts working with grads because they are a historical botch, often causing as many problems as they solved. If you already had an established way of working with them then sure, keep using, but if you've never done that then you really shouldn't be picking up a historical bad habit like that. Screw-mount grads are the very worst of all, because you have no control where the transition falls. At least with square filters the transition can be moved in relation to the image.

Otherwise yes, get a polariser and a 10 stop.
 
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Here is a great, well actually not so great, old example of mine:

Durdle Door

There is simply no clean way of fixing this ever, and I still have blown highlights. Epic fail. Learn from old mistakes, don't repeat them.

I am sure someone will say I used it wrong, used wrong filter or whatever. Yeah, whatever. Smoking was promoted as healthy once.
 
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That’s really nicely explained - thank you. In fact, thank you all for your comments:) They have helped a lot in helping me forge my way forward in doing what I want t do:)
 
I’ve been using Haida filters for a few years and very happy with them. NDs, polarizer, black mist and get most use. I have one soft grad which gets occasional use.
 
TimHughes said:
I’ve been using Haida filters for a few years and very happy with them. NDs, polarizer, black mist and get most use. I have one soft grad which gets occasional use.
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I also have Haida 10stop. I hardly ever use because it is not really compatible with my style, but yes colour rendition is close 100% when you correct it's wild wb shift. I used colour checker to verify. Sharpness is also essential unaffected.
A good vnd is probably more useful particularly for video and outdoor flash work.
I recently bought a couple of k&f nano x filters and they too perform really well. The packaging has terrible pungent chemical odour though. I bet it is pretty toxic. Just needs a new case essentially
 
I used to use graduated filters many years ago. I did have Lee filters at one point about 10 years ago! And I sort-of get using them, it's nice to get things right 'in camera' and take your time on location, position filters, tweak exposure, wait for the light etc etc ....

.... But it's just not worth it anymore imo Aside from the 'horizon' issue, the carrying of extra kit, swapping lens adapters, etc I'd sooner spend that time enjoying the moment with my eyes :) And listen to sounds with my ears :)

I tend to expose right to the highlights & pull the shadows/drop highlights - that's normally enough with modern camera bodies. Sometimes I'll bracket a few shots just in case I need to blend a sky/foreground together and with modern masking in editing software that job is even easier.

I do have 3, 6 and 10 stop filters but I don't often use them. Only usually for water when I just want a bit of movement.

Pro mist style Cinebloom filters are my most used followed by a CPL & a modified Cinesoft for night skies.
 
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