Beginner filters for landscapes

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graycbr

graycbr

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hi guys
I started a thread in the equipment forum asking which size I needed for 28 -70 & a 24 -105 canon L series lens ,and it seemed I needed 100mm size filters ..
Now my question is which brand & which ones do I need ?
Been looking at hitech brand which seem to be quite a good brand ..
But there are a few more brands & would like some help with
Cokin
Zomei
Hitech
Kood
Lee high prices ..
Which brand should I be looking at & the reasons why ?
Which filters do I need ?
Remember first time using them going to try something new Eg winter landscapes normal field is motorsport ...
any input or guide would be great help
 
It's a lot less confusing if you continue the filter narrative on the same thread. It's a continuation of the same subject.
 
Alastair said:
It's a lot less confusing if you continue the filter narrative on the same thread. It's a continuation of the same subject.
Click to expand...
I would do but getting no reply's on the original thread now ??
 
What's your budget and what filters do you consider that you'd need?
 
Hi,

Generally speaking Lee filters are known to be of good quality however they are pricier than the others.

I use a 24-70 as well as a wide angle lens which uses a 77mm thread, I use the B&W 10 stop ND filter as well as the polariser and have found them to be very good.
 
made my mind up on the hitech filters ,now all I need to know which ones to start with as not got a clue ..
 
That all depends on what you want to do with them. What some people use on a daily basis might not be of any use to you.

Rather than ask which you should get it might be better to look at some books/websites to see what effect different filters have and that should help you narrow it down. Otherwise you might as well stick a pin in a price list.
 
graycbr said:
made my mind up on the hitech filters ,now all I need to know which ones to start with as not got a clue ..
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To be honest, that's the bit you need to figure out first - that will then guide you as to which style and size of filter you need, and then to a manufacturer.
 
looking to do winter landscapes Eg snow covered woods ,frozen rivers ,landscapes etc
 
If you can, then splash out on Lee. They are by far the best. Speedgraphic are a good supplier for them, as are Wex. Alternatively you might be lucky to pick them up secondhand from the Classifieds Section or on eBay. Look after them well and they will hold their value too.
 
If you're not looking to spend hundreds on Lee, then Hitech is the way forward, either new or second hand. You'll need the filter holder and adaptor rings for your lenses, then you need to decide which grads you want, and whether you want NDs, a circular polariser and anything else. I'd suggest as a minimum you should consider one or two soft and hard grads - my default choice is a 0.9 (3 stop) for each. I barely use my 1, 2 and 3 stop NDs, but my 10 stop gets reasonable use and I'm planning on getting a 6 stop. CPLs are expensive. The standard way of using them with Lee/Hitech is to get a 105mm adaptor which attaches to the front of the filter holder; this enables you to use a screw-in 105mm CPL.
 
julianhj said:
If you're not looking to spend hundreds on Lee, then Hitech is the way forward, either new or second hand. You'll need the filter holder and adaptor rings for your lenses, then you need to decide which grads you want, and whether you want NDs, a circular polariser and anything else. I'd suggest as a minimum you should consider one or two soft and hard grads - my default choice is a 0.9 (3 stop) for each. I barely use my 1, 2 and 3 stop NDs, but my 10 stop gets reasonable use and I'm planning on getting a 6 stop. CPLs are expensive. The standard way of using them with Lee/Hitech is to get a 105mm adaptor which attaches to the front of the filter holder; this enables you to use a screw-in 105mm CPL.
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many thanks for the info
 
can I use the CPL on the lens first then the filter holder ?
It will be a bit cheaper this way as only need a 77mm Cpl instead of the 105mm ...
 
You will have to check for vignetting.
You could try with another similar filter if you have one.
 
You would also have the issue of the holder rotating with the polariser - ok with ND but not with grads.
 
graycbr said:
now all I need to know which ones to start with as not got a clue
Click to expand...

I'd suggest you start off properly answering the question - Do I need filters ???

If you can answer that one well then it'll tell you which ones you might need

Whenever I ask myself that question all I can find of use is a full ND, hence that's all I have :)

Dave
 
graycbr said:
looking to do winter landscapes Eg snow covered woods ,frozen rivers ,landscapes etc
Click to expand...

For landscapes, start with a 0.6 hard and soft grad.
Lee are obviously quite good, the latest Formatt Hitechs (I use the 150 x 100 mm, same size as Lee) are equally as good and a little cheaper. I use both.
 
DG Phototraining said:
Why though ???

Snow makes the difference from ground to sky even less than normal, you don't 'need' filters for this really if you have LR or Photoshop - far easier & better :)

Dave
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He mentioned landscapes if you read his post, Dave.
 
NeilA1975 said:
He mentioned landscapes if you read his post, Dave.
Click to expand...

Yep read it - and as a Landscape tog and teacher thereof I find it bewildering how quickly people tell newbies to buy filters they probably don't need and for reasons they probably don't understand

Oh, and I was that newbie once, I bought everything peeps told me to, used them a bit, became disillusioned with them and gave the lot away many years ago - NOT a good financial decision lol :D

I just think he (anyone) needs to know exactly why he may need a filter before going off spending a small fortune on them

Its less than £9 a month for all the PP programs you'll ever need and with a touch of learning you soon learn you don't need most filters at all. There is a small place for Polarisers and Full NDs are very useful to the blurry look or for minimal DoF on a sunny day, but the rest are pretty much unnecessary these days and they slow you down too much for me too

The DR of newer cameras is awesome, another 5 years of sensor development and filter companies will go the way of film - a specialist interest thing only, the mass market will realise what a waste they are and ignore them

But that's another story and of no use to the OP - so to the OP - find out what your problem is and where & when a filter might solve it if you can't do it by other means, then you'll know what, or if, to buy :)

Dave
 
DG Phototraining said:
Yep read it - and as a Landscape tog and teacher thereof I find it bewildering how quickly people tell newbies to buy filters they probably don't need and for reasons they probably don't understand

Oh, and I was that newbie once, I bought everything peeps told me to, used them a bit, became disillusioned with them and gave the lot away many years ago - NOT a good financial decision lol :D

I just think he (anyone) needs to know exactly why he may need a filter before going off spending a small fortune on them

Its less than £9 a month for all the PP programs you'll ever need and with a touch of learning you soon learn you don't need most filters at all. There is a small place for Polarisers and Full NDs are very useful to the blurry look or for minimal DoF on a sunny day, but the rest are pretty much unnecessary these days and they slow you down too much for me too

The DR of newer cameras is awesome, another 5 years of sensor development and filter companies will go the way of film - a specialist interest thing only, the mass market will realise what a waste they are and ignore them

But that's another story and of no use to the OP - so to the OP - find out what your problem is and where & when a filter might solve it if you can't do it by other means, then you'll know what, or if, to buy :)

Dave
Click to expand...

Well I use PS/ACR and filters. I prefer filters where I can use them more effectively - they reduce time PP and you only need 1 shot. But I do use PS for exposure blending occasionally, and even 32 bit HDR.
There are of course benefits in using both and you should use whatever method suits you, but I'm somewhat surprised that as a 'teacher' you're so quick to dismiss the useful of graduated filters and opt purely for digital path which can often be tedious, have a steep learning curve and produce unnatural looking results.
 
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