Focus point help

Tugster said:
Tethered and focussing on moving car numberplate ...been getting some strange looks ..lol
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When testing, is the difference noticeable when you +/- the MA 1 by 1 using that method and roughly what distance are you shooting them from.

Thanks for the help ;)
 
Hi. I sometimes get the same problem as Kelly. On my 50D I use back button focussing, AI servo, centre point. However, it does seem that it takes a second for the focus to lock on, so I'm trying to get ahead of the game, as it were, and give myself that extra second so the focus can lock on. Plus there's the shutter lag, which means you have to fire just before the action hits its peak. Its a reall nuisance when the ref or someone comes between the lens and the action, the focus re-locks. I'm still learning all this, every match is a different challenge.
 
alexw9 said:
When testing, is the difference noticeable when you +/- the MA 1 by 1 using that method and roughly what distance are you shooting them from.

Thanks for the help ;)
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I use the distance I'm likely to use at a game. Then see how that setting works at different distances...but this is also a good read.

http://www.canon.co.uk/Images/EOS 1D MK IV AF guide_tcm14-721275.pdf


Have a look here Alex and read this thread thoroughly.

http://slikimages.com/2010/02/rugby-union/finding-the-limits-of-the-canon-1d-mark-iv-autofocus/

I hope Tobers doesnt mind..lol

sorry for the big delay replying....I missed it altogether
 
I think I changed too many settings and although tried to get them all back I do have one annoying problem ...yes just one...that when I point and half press for focus on Object A ... if Object B is brighter and closer to me..it will focus on that ... whats that all about?
 
Sounds like you've got more than one AF point selected.

Though you've said yourself, you only had one point selected, so god knows, maybe canon are crap afterall :D

I dont even trust AI servo on my 400d, i like to use single shot all the time for football, though i wouldnt recommend anyone else to do it.
 
KIPAX said:
...that when I point and half press for focus on Object A ... if Object B is brighter and closer to me..it will focus on that ... whats that all about?
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I have read that one of the AF modes on my D5000 will actually autofocus on the nearest object. Will have to RTFM....again.:LOL:
 
Not sure i've seen that anywhere Martin. Try the single point afc, works most of the time for me indoors at Basketball. With your new lens, af should be fast as lightening :)
 
Yeah going to try that at my next game Phil as I had a few problems on Saturday as I had the front players blurred and the rear players in focus.

But I think I may have had something to do with it as I may have accidently moved the AF point from centre to one of the other points.

This is the thread http://www.talkphotography.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=268089
 
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KIPAX said:
I think I changed too many settings and although tried to get them all back I do have one annoying problem ...yes just one...that when I point and half press for focus on Object A ... if Object B is brighter and closer to me..it will focus on that ... whats that all about?
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Have you got the AI SERVO Tracking sensitivity turned up full Tony ?
CFIII-2
 
Tugster said:
Have you got the AI SERVO Tracking sensitivity turned up full Tony ?
CFIII-2
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just plus1
I changed it to full the other day when i was doing inline hockey because fast moving players in small space..but now just plus 1

I was calibrating a lens last night.. had a box with a ruler on an angle.. had a lamp pointing to ruler...idea is take pic of box and see where focus is on ruler.. but no matter what i did.. the calibration was always out showing front focus.. then i realised the brighter area on the silver ruler was attracting the focus and instead of focusing on box it was focusing on ruler :(
 
KIPAX said:
just plus1
I changed it to full the other day when i was doing inline hockey because fast moving players in small space..but now just plus 1

I was calibrating a lens last night.. had a box with a ruler on an angle.. had a lamp pointing to ruler...idea is take pic of box and see where focus is on ruler.. but no matter what i did.. the calibration was always out showing front focus.. then i realised the brighter area on the silver ruler was attracting the focus and instead of focusing on box it was focusing on ruler :(
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Been there and done that too :)

It suggests in the canon guides that standard is fine and to move up one click is sufficient for most sport situations...I also tried the highest setting but got to many oof shots ...Maybe need to brush up on technique a little...

I also find that I need to acquire the focus of the subject for 1/2 a second or so before the action to capture the focus ...Not too sure if there is a setting to make this quicker ....I'm getting there slowly (y)
 
had mine for 10 mths now.. still change settigns every now and then... could do wiht another to be honest :)
 
KIPAX said:
just plus1
I changed it to full the other day when i was doing inline hockey because fast moving players in small space..but now just plus 1

(
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Unless its different to Mk3 +1 will make the focus "jump" to a nearer subject. Zero or minus will keep focus locked on original subject longer.................... doesnt it?
 
Thats right Graham but the Plus settings will make the AI sharper to follow faster moving subjects...But if it looses focus it then jumps to the nearest subject....which isnt necesarily the one you are after...lol
:)
 
snapzz said:
Unless its different to Mk3 +1 will make the focus "jump" to a nearer subject. Zero or minus will keep focus locked on original subject longer.................... doesnt it?
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surely not.. it tracking sensitivity... your camera should track whatever you want it to and not jump.. but if on slow its less likely to jump as another player can pass by and it stay locked on your subject..

dont think its owt to do with this problem?
 
Gary Coyle said:
The answer is ..........................................
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too expensive...

or was you going to suprise the whole of TP and say summat else ? :)
 
It was meant to be slightly sarcastic but not in the terms i think tony meant (NIKON)

The answer is, there isn't one set answer due to the thousands of totally pointless combinations of settings on the MKIV, what seems to work for one doesn't for the other and that shouldn't be the case, canons are superb cameras but since the MKIIN they have seriously over complicated the AF system, you never used to have to tweak the AF Calibration on a MKII and that focussed perfectly regardless of what lens you had on it.
 
Probably slightly off topic, and probably been covered before, but I have just got a 1D MkIII and having paid for 45 focussing points, been advised to turn them all off and just use the centre one (with assist points) seems like I'm not using full potential of the autofocus system???

Confused!!
 
boogieville said:
Probably slightly off topic, and probably been covered before, but I have just got a 1D MkIII and having paid for 45 focussing points, been advised to turn them all off and just use the centre one (with assist points) seems like I'm not using full potential of the autofocus system???

Confused!!
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I probably paid a big chunk of the 4k for my mkIV to have video which I am not even allowed to use at football..

a mkIII wasnt made for football only and using all focus points is usefull in some situations.. not in ours..

Better to have and not need.... than to need and not have :)
 
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