Fuji X-E1/X-E2/X-E2S/X-E3 Owners Thread

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This was done with a Carl Zeiss Jena Pancolar 80mm f/1.8 on an X-E2
 
Now my nephew in the woods.
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Still getting to grips with the xe2 and AFTER my walk with Ryan i realised that i'd been using one shot focus rather than continuous focus. Doh !!
 
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That's a nice Sunset shot Jeff, some lovely colours, well composed, with some really nice reflections.(y)

George.
 
kennysarmy said:
Finally an evening with some nice light down at the docks...

23mm with XE-2

Sunset on Gloucester Docks 3 by kennysarmy, on Flickr
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Thats a great shot Jeff, lovely light and great reflections. Just looked at the full size version in Flickr and the detail is amazing the X-E2 combined with the 23mm resolves loads of detail.
 
Been thinking of a XE 2 not sure which lens though yet.

But first of all what this cam like with tracking. And how good the AF. And how good is it with low light indoor shoot high ISO??

As thinking one of these over the XPro 1. And Sony A7 as the price of the XE 2 are good at mo with offers
 
rookies said:
Been thinking of a XE 2 not sure which lens though yet.

But first of all what this cam like with tracking. And how good the AF. And how good is it with low light indoor shoot high ISO??

As thinking one of these over the XPro 1. And Sony A7 as the price of the XE 2 are good at mo with offers
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High iso indoors no problem.
AF tracking...... For decent at that suggest an SLR.
AF speed is a bit lens dependant I'd say.
 
So it be hard take images of little one then. I want down size already a 5dmkiii just too big with all kit

Any samples for low light high ISO folks pls?
 
rookies said:
Any samples for low light high ISO folks pls?
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There are 50+ pages in this thread, including low light high ISO samples..
 
Ok thanks I did look but no info what ISO.

Will it handle taking images little one running. I though it got a fast shutter according Fuji spec
 
It won't be as fast or as capable as a 5D III for running kids, an X-T1 would be the better option (but still not as good). I can get shots indoors at high ISO with my X-E2 in single shot mode, but the tracking is not great. I'll pop some examples up a bit later if I get time.
 
rookies said:
Ok thanks I did look but no info what ISO.

Will it handle taking images little one running. I though it got a fast shutter according Fuji spec
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Hi mate,

I used mine outside the other day coupled with my 56mm lens and even though I forgot to put it to continuous focus most of my shots of my nephew and son are fine. Both were bombing about the woods like demons and they're 3 and 4 and the auto focus kept up.
 
Thanks.

Just need make my mind up. The 56mm lens is tempting since it 1.2. What other lens u hot?
 
None buddy. Just the 56mm. I really like it. Need to use it indoors more to see what it produces. Lovely outside.
 
What sort photography u do??? U any low light high ISO??
 
Not really . Mostly portraits outside although I'm going to give this a bash indoors over the next week or so.
 
Back to a favourite location. I need to break the habit of shooting too wide open with old fast glass, yup the bokeh is cool but stopping down the sharpness goes all the way up..

 
macvisual said:
Camera and settings; X-E 1 - XF 14mm - @ f/9 - handheld - iso 1000

Not much mucking about in LR5 to be honest, I selected 'Velvia' to slightly enhance the colours, that's it.
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Do u shoot JPEG then to get velvia on camera?
 
macvisual said:
Camera and settings; X-E 1 - XF 14mm - @ f/9 - handheld - iso 1000

Not much mucking about in LR5 to be honest, I selected 'Velvia' to slightly enhance the colours, that's it.
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ISO 1000 for bright day?? Or was it to freeze the swans
 
rookies said:
How you manage get that effect. Is it due to the lens or camera or processing. As bright face and nice shadow bokeh
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As always it's a combination. Getting it right in camera is key, so for the shallow dof, you need to shoot as wide open as your lens will allow (in this case f2.8). The effect is accentuated by having something in the foreground close to the camera whilst you're focusing on something behind it. Processing wise I use the radial filter in Lightroom to focus the attention on a particular part of the shot, in this case his face. You want to invert the filter and reduce the exposure, which effectively darkens everything around the desired area. Hope that all makes sense.
 
rookies said:
How you manage get that effect. Is it due to the lens or camera or processing. As bright face and nice shadow bokeh
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Reading the photo..
  • The catch lights reflected in the eyes indicate a large square-ish light source behind the camera.
  • The soft shadows reinforce the impression that it's a large soft light source
  • The shadow under the nose tells me the light source iscentral and high relevant to the camera axis
  • The comparison with the yellow-ish light falling outside the blanket suggests the light source is daylight (window) or daylight corrected (flash)

The Strobist 101/blog has a useful section on reading a photo to determine lighting. Light is everything.
 
simonmoran said:
As always it's a combination. Getting it right in camera is key, so for the shallow dof, you need to shoot as wide open as your lens will allow (in this case f2.8). The effect is accentuated by having something in the foreground close to the camera whilst you're focusing on something behind it. Processing wise I use the radial filter in Lightroom to focus the attention on a particular part of the shot, in this case his face. You want to invert the filter and reduce the exposure, which effectively darkens everything around the desired area. Hope that all makes sense.
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Think I read about this feature on LR. Think I need to get it as aperture now dead
 
Alastair said:
Reading the photo..
  • The catch lights reflected in the eyes indicate a large square-ish light source behind the camera.
  • The soft shadows reinforce the impression that it's a large soft light source
  • The shadow under the nose tells me the light source iscentral and high relevant to the camera axis
  • The comparison with the yellow-ish light falling outside the blanket suggests the light source is daylight (window) or daylight corrected (flash)

The Strobist 101/blog has a useful section on reading a photo to determine lighting. Light is everything.
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Pretty much nailed it. It was obviously a very confined space, so used the onboard the flash from the XE2, bounced upwards off the roof of the silver blanket. Then white balance corrected in LR... but it I'm not 100% happy the w yet. Then as per above, used an inverted radial filter to focus attention.

I have to say, I find the XE2 onboard flash surprisingly useful
 
simonmoran said:
Pretty much nailed it. It was obviously a very confined space, so used the onboard the flash from the XE2, bounced upwards off the roof of the silver blanket. Then white balance corrected in LR... but it I'm not 100% happy the w yet. Then as per above, used an inverted radial filter to focus attention.

I have to say, I find the XE2 onboard flash surprisingly useful
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I was sure the light was behind the camera, but bouncing the onboard flash inside a big mirror tent probably accounts for that. Certainly created some nice soft shadows.

Radial filter is something I'm beginning to really like in LR, it's very good for creating a subtle emphasis.
 
macvisual said:
If feel everyone nowadays nearly all select 100/200 iso for pin sharp images (depending on light conditions etc), personal choice.
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I think a lot of beginners spend a lot of time shooting ISO 100 and wondering why their images are not pin sharp. They don't realise that their ISO choice is compromising the aperture and/or shutter speed values and the sharpness is suffering either because the lens is not being used at the optimum aperture or the slow shutter speed is introducing movement in the camera and/or subject. Letting the ISO rise to allow the other settings to optimise is often the right thing to do.

Although I'll still maintain my belief that sharpness is over-rated..
 
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