Fuji X-T1/X-T2/X-T3/X-T10 Owners Thread

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139
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Mark
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Personally, I love the 35mm f1.4, although I would love to add the 23 to my collection. The 35 1.4 was the first prime I bought for Fuji and it goes everywhere, even when I'm out birding the 35 is in the bag. It works well with the tubes as well. Never tried the f2 as for me, the large aperture of the others is one of the bonuses you get with the Fuji set up. Just think, how much would a 23 or 35 f1.4 "L" cost you?

If I had my way I would have all 3 of the 1.4's (16, 23, 35) and the 90 f2. I recently let my 16 go, and although I'm enjoying it's 90mm replacement, it's not as versatile as that 16mm......
I’ve got the 16mm and 55-200mm which I love, so I’m looking for a lens to fill in between. I have the 18-55 but I literally never use it now.
 
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11,877
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Keith
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Personally, I love the 35mm f1.4, although I would love to add the 23 to my collection. The 35 1.4 was the first prime I bought for Fuji and it goes everywhere, even when I'm out birding the 35 is in the bag. It works well with the tubes as well. Never tried the f2 as for me, the large aperture of the others is one of the bonuses you get with the Fuji set up. Just think, how much would a 23 or 35 f1.4 "L" cost you?

If I had my way I would have all 3 of the 1.4's (16, 23, 35) and the 90 f2. I recently let my 16 go, and although I'm enjoying it's 90mm replacement, it's not as versatile as that 16mm......
The 35 1.4 was the only lens I had in the end before I switched from Fuji last time out. Apart from it being a bit noisy and chattery [at least it was on the XT1] the results were very pleasing. A very easy lens to get on for photography, not so much for video, the F2 would be way better for that. I have heard that with FW updates and on the later bodies the AF for the 1.4 improved vastly?
 
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691
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Jack Valentine Parkinson
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Having to send my 8 month old XT3 off for repair :( Looks like the shutter isn't moving fast enough for shots over 1/4000 and looks like it's catching and showing on the image. More annoying is that I can also see it on my other body but only when shot at 1/8000 so that will have to off also once the other is back!! Can't have done much more than 50k on the shutter...
 
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951
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Dean
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Took a few long exposure shots in Zurich the other night.
I have ordered a new SD card as i think the Jessops branded one I use at the moment is hampering the saving/processing of 30 second exposures, unless my expectation is too high as the D700 was quicker in this regard.

Untitled
by Dean McBryde, on Flickr

Untitled
by Dean McBryde, on Flickr
 
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2,528
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Andrew
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Really like the rendition of these, nicely taken.
Some of the images posted lately are fuelling my research into changing systems, thanks for forums such as this.
Looking at lightening my load and switching to Fuji.
Have been researching X-t2, X-t3 and then Cagey75, put s spanner in the works by suggesting a look at the X-H1.
Had half a mind to settle on the X-t2, but local LCE store doesn’t have X-t2 in stock, they are apparently on short stock now.
The spec for the X-H1 looks pretty impressive, it’s only for sale as body only or body plus grip, which actually is a good buy at £100 extra, as two batteries which are included would cost almost that. The body only is a bit heavier than the X-t2 or t3, but still lighter than my Nikon D750.
So now it’s a decision on a first lens, at least if you buy the X-t2 or t3 kit the decision is made for you with the 18-55mm.
Have even thought of the 23mm prime as a lot of my present photos on my full frame camera are taken at about 24-45mm.
Panasonic g9 has also been on the radar, but sensor size is tending to put me off, I do a fair bit of macro photography, and sometimes like the Bokeh to be present.
 
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1,132
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Pete
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Really like the rendition of these, nicely taken.
Some of the images posted lately are fuelling my research into changing systems, thanks for forums such as this.
Looking at lightening my load and switching to Fuji.
Have been researching X-t2, X-t3 and then Cagey75, put s spanner in the works by suggesting a look at the X-H1.
Had half a mind to settle on the X-t2, but local LCE store doesn’t have X-t2 in stock, they are apparently on short stock now.
The spec for the X-H1 looks pretty impressive, it’s only for sale as body only or body plus grip, which actually is a good buy at £100 extra, as two batteries which are included would cost almost that. The body only is a bit heavier than the X-t2 or t3, but still lighter than my Nikon D750.
So now it’s a decision on a first lens, at least if you buy the X-t2 or t3 kit the decision is made for you with the 18-55mm.
Have even thought of the 23mm prime as a lot of my present photos on my full frame camera are taken at about 24-45mm.
Panasonic g9 has also been on the radar, but sensor size is tending to put me off, I do a fair bit of macro photography, and sometimes like the Bokeh to be present.
If you need fast AF in low light go XT-3 otherwise I would go XH-1 plus grip, both are brilliant cameras. If you go XT-2 I would go for a mint used one for around £500.

If you do go with the XH-1 then consider the 16-55 as you'll have IBIS.
 
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11,877
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Keith
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Really like the rendition of these, nicely taken.
Some of the images posted lately are fuelling my research into changing systems, thanks for forums such as this.
Looking at lightening my load and switching to Fuji.
Have been researching X-t2, X-t3 and then Cagey75, put s spanner in the works by suggesting a look at the X-H1.
Had half a mind to settle on the X-t2, but local LCE store doesn’t have X-t2 in stock, they are apparently on short stock now.
The spec for the X-H1 looks pretty impressive, it’s only for sale as body only or body plus grip, which actually is a good buy at £100 extra, as two batteries which are included would cost almost that. The body only is a bit heavier than the X-t2 or t3, but still lighter than my Nikon D750.
So now it’s a decision on a first lens, at least if you buy the X-t2 or t3 kit the decision is made for you with the 18-55mm.
Have even thought of the 23mm prime as a lot of my present photos on my full frame camera are taken at about 24-45mm.
Panasonic g9 has also been on the radar, but sensor size is tending to put me off, I do a fair bit of macro photography, and sometimes like the Bokeh to be present.
It's a pity you didn't live here in Ireland as there's an excellent condition xt2 with grip and batteries plus kit lens and leather half case going for €900, which is about £800? I almost bought it but had my mind set on the XH1. Ibis is important for me, and I prefer a beefier grip but other than that I was kinda kicking myself not grabbing that deal. I could probably have sold it all separate for profit but who need that hassle! Actually it's so hard sell anything without taking a loss lately it wouldn't be the best idea.
 
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11,877
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Keith
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Ibis is overrated if you're shooting moving objects remember. Part of the reason I'm still more than happy with my X-T2!
It's not over rated in the slightest, it's just not needed in those cases. There is 2 stages to ibis also on many cameras, you can set it to steady panning horizontally or vertically only if desired. By your logic why the need for OIS in lenses? With ibis you get it in every single lens you use and you can turn it off at will. I find it useful for composition, even when shooting small birds in the garden who move quicker than just about anything else you might be photographing. It is excellent for framing when using longer primes. I know how useful it is or wouldn't be seeking it, I've been taking advantage of it a few years now.

once you get used to having the option it's hard to without. It's also brill for video, I don't shoot video often but when I do I like it steady. IBIS is also just one of many reasons I opted for the XH1 btw. I used to have the XT1 and loved it, so nothing against the XT2 whatsoever, it's still a fantastic option today.
 
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4,325
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David
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Took a few long exposure shots in Zurich the other night.
I have ordered a new SD card as i think the Jessops branded one I use at the moment is hampering the saving/processing of 30 second exposures, unless my expectation is too high as the D700 was quicker in this regard.

Untitled
by Dean McBryde, on Flickr

Untitled
by Dean McBryde, on Flickr
Have you got Long Exposure Noise Reduction on?? If so the camera will take a second dark image of the same exposure time as the first image, then adjust the original image accordingly and then save.

If you have it off (which most do), then the second image isn’t taken and the camera immediately saves after the first image. You will have to clean up any unlikely hotspots in post production in this scenario
 
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817
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Malcolm
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I am toying with a change to Fuji, do they have a dedicated editing software package, as Nikon do, with Nikon Cspture NX-D, or is it find your own? I see Capture 1 do a version for Fuji.
Silkypix do a free raw converter for Fuji, Capture 1 Pro do a dedicated Fuji version that is generally accepted as the best available (currently available at half price).
 
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11,877
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Keith
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I am toying with a change to Fuji, do they have a dedicated editing software package, as Nikon do, with Nikon Cspture NX-D, or is it find your own? I see Capture 1 do a version for Fuji.

You can have Capture One express for Fuji for free, though you will be missing out on some features like cloning and layers: https://www.captureone.com/en/products/fujifilm

You get all the usual controls: sharpening, noise reduction, colour and WB adjustments .. it takes some getting used to but after a couple days you'd be flying.

Scroll down and you'll see the download for it with no buy option. This is a good way to check it out when you get a Fuji camera, get a feel for it and see how you like it. I'm bouncing between that and LR atm, see if it would be worth switching. I still need LR for my other camera for the moment
 
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2,767
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Nick
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I've just downloaded the Fuji version of Capture One (Out of curiosity. I'm happy with LR) But it doesn't recognise RAF files?
 
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11,877
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Keith
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I've just downloaded the Fuji version of Capture One (Out of curiosity. I'm happy with LR) But it doesn't recognise RAF files?
Works fine for me here? what way are you attempting to open them in the program? Drag and drop? using the import in program? both ways actually work here
 
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2,767
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Nick
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Using import from the top bar. I navigate to the folder and all the .RAF files are greyed out
 
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11,877
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Keith
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Using import from the top bar. I navigate to the folder and all the .RAF files are greyed out
Don't actually open the folder to select the individual files, just select the folder and chose it from there, the files will then show within the program itself and you can choose all or individual
 
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2,767
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Nick
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Don't actually open the folder to select the individual files, just select the folder and chose it from there, the files will then show within the program itself and you can choose all or individual
Ah right. I’ll give that a go when I get back in. Thanks
 
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11,877
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Keith
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Ah right. I’ll give that a go when I get back in. Thanks
Hopefully yhat works for you, it caught me out at first too - I was double clicking the folder because I only wanted to test a couple of RAF files, but when it clicked through the files weren't even showing. Figured I had to select the overall outer folder and that works for me at least :)

I was messing about with the program last night, and it wasn't long until I wished it had the clone tool in there [pic of my daughter where there was a few white specs on her top I wanted to remove] also the Fujifilm profiles/presets are not showing in there for me, that's another bummer. Even with just those 2 things I might be inclined to use it more, but if I have to go open a second software after initial tweaks, I'm just going to use that second software - LR [which incidentally I'm finding to work very well with RAF files these days]

They do of course want us to upgrade the software, free will always be very limited. But you do get the usual WB/contrats/clarity/sharpening/NR/highlights/shadow recovery options.
 
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817
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Malcolm
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Hopefully yhat works for you, it caught me out at first too - I was double clicking the folder because I only wanted to test a couple of RAF files, but when it clicked through the files weren't even showing. Figured I had to select the overall outer folder and that works for me at least :)

I was messing about with the program last night, and it wasn't long until I wished it had the clone tool in there [pic of my daughter where there was a few white specs on her top I wanted to remove] also the Fujifilm profiles/presets are not showing in there for me, that's another bummer. Even with just those 2 things I might be inclined to use it more, but if I have to go open a second software after initial tweaks, I'm just going to use that second software - LR [which incidentally I'm finding to work very well with RAF files these days]

They do of course want us to upgrade the software, free will always be very limited. But you do get the usual WB/contrats/clarity/sharpening/NR/highlights/shadow recovery options.
I downloaded the trial version yesterday, and started watching some of the training videos/webinars. In one of them the tutor was certainly using a clone/heal tool.
 
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11,877
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Keith
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I downloaded the trial version yesterday, and started watching some of the training videos/webinars. In one of them the tutor was certainly using a clone/heal tool.
That's the trial for the full version though? I do have that too, but I was using the free express version, the trial doesn't run out on that. To get the clone tool you have to upgrade it.
 
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11,877
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Keith
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I have used C1 and I just don't see what all the hype is about. LR & PS works fine for me, and I prefer the workflow.
You can get better sharpening without drawing out the xtrans oddities in other software. I much, much prefer LR to anything else but it does mess with RAF files if pushed. I don't get how other programs can mange to keep it under wraps so much better. But, with more care in LR you can indeed get great results. It's just sharpening that seems to be the issue. By default LR had set sharpening to 40 for my RAF files! wtf! you really don't want to push over 25. Makes you wonder how many get a Fuji cam, shoot RAW, open LR - sharpening defaulted to 40 and they think 'Yikes! not using this!'

Thing is, the same issue pops up with any RAW file if pushed too far, if I push my G80 RAWs above 45 the same weird sharpening artifacts will begin to appear. RAF files are just that much more sensitive. But I also have a feeling the other programs are cheating a bit. By default I see C1 has luminance NR set to 50, and this disguises some of the issue when you begin sharpening
 
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7,182
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Jonathan
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You can get better sharpening without drawing out the xtrans oddities in other software. I much, much prefer LR to anything else but it does mess with RAF files if pushed. I don't get how other programs can mange to keep it under wraps so much better. But, with more care in LR you can indeed get great results. It's just sharpening that seems to be the issue. By default LR had set sharpening to 40 for my RAF files! wtf! you really don't want to push over 25. Makes you wonder how many get a Fuji cam, shoot RAW, open LR - sharpening defaulted to 40 and they think 'Yikes! not using this!'

Thing is, the same issue pops up with any RAW file if pushed too far, if I push my G80 RAWs above 45 the same weird sharpening artifacts will begin to appear. RAF files are just that much more sensitive. But I also have a feeling the other programs are cheating a bit. By default I see C1 has luminance NR set to 50, and this disguises some of the issue when you begin sharpening
The raw files are imported sharper than others imo, therefore need little to no sharpening.
 
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11,877
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Keith
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The raw files are imported sharper than others imo, therefore need little to no sharpening.
Why do LR set the default to 40? It's like they want people to get p***ed about it! I'm barely pushing it to 20 for my H1 files and find that plenty with a dash of clarity in the mix. I also Alt + mask to fine tune it to the select areas I actually want to sharpen [eyes, main subject/bird/insect]

The first thing I did after opening my first recent RAF file in LR was set the defaults for the H1 to 0, I just wonder how many bother to do this
 
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7,182
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Jonathan
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Why do LR set the default to 40? It's like they want people to get p***ed about it! I'm barely pushing it to 20 for my H1 files and find that plenty with a dash of clarity in the mix. I also Alt + mask to tune it to the select areas I actually want to sharpen [eyes, main subject/bird/insect]
I find it fine between 40-55. Depends on subject I guess.
 
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139
Name
Mark
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I moved to C1 from LR and I do miss LR but when I imported my Fuji files into the most up to date version of LR they looked bloody awful even taking the sharpening down to 25 instead of 40 made no difference.

Am I missing something a step?
 
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11,877
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Keith
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I moved to C1 from LR and I do miss LR but when I imported my Fuji files into the most up to date version of LR they looked bloody awful even taking the sharpening down to 25 instead of 40 made no difference.

Am I missing something a step?
Would these have been files shot at higher ISO? I'd take it lower for those as LR just loves to over sharpen any kind of grain. Also set masking to about 20-30 by default.

C1 isn't exactly perfect either. I've noticed it do similar once you pull luminance and threshold [their method of masking] down, the default they have set is a little heavy handed and may lead you to believe it's cleaner
 
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139
Name
Mark
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WOuld these have been files shot at higher ISO? I'd take it lower for those as LR just loves to over sharpen any kind of grain. Also set masking to about 20-30 by default.

C1 isn't exactly perfect either. I've noticed it do similar once you pull luminance and threshold [their method of masking] down, the default they have set is a little heavy handed and may lead you to believe it's cleaner
No the image only had the base iso of 200.

All the images I’ve edited on C1 have been spot on. I guess I’ve not delved deep enough into it to notice issues. It sucks it doesn’t have the hdr and pano merge that LR had and the really easy to use adjustment brush, but I’ve only been using C1 for around 3 months so I guess I’ve barely scratched its surface. LR on the other hand I’ve used for over 2 years.
 
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11,877
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Keith
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No the image only had the base iso of 200.

All the images I’ve edited on C1 have been spot on. I guess I’ve not delved deep enough into it to notice issues. It sucks it doesn’t have the hdr and pano merge that LR had and the really easy to use adjustment brush, but I’ve only been using C1 for around 3 months so I guess I’ve barely scratched its surface. LR on the other hand I’ve used for over 2 years.
It's all about what you're most comfortable with, whatever gets the preferred results. I've found my RAF files to be clean and looking good after I set up LR how I like it for those files. I would like to be more comfortable pushing sharpening more at times, but sharpening is way over rated, only pixel peepers really notice any difference.
 
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139
Name
Mark
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It's all about what you're most comfortable with, whatever gets the preferred results. I've found my RAF files to be clean and looking good after I set up LR how I like it for those files. I would like to be more comfortable pushing sharpening more at times, but sharpening is way over rated, only pixel peepers really notice any difference.
I’ve never liked the sharpening in LR and in C1 I don’t bother out with the default. I’ve normally added a bit of sharpening if needed on PS.

But you are right use what you’re comfortable with :)
 
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11,877
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Keith
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I’ve never liked the sharpening in LR and in C1 I don’t bother out with the default. I’ve normally added a bit of sharpening if needed on PS.

But you are right use what you’re comfortable with :)
For me, no other software out there is laid out as perfectly as LR - it's about as simple a software to use as you can get and it packs a lot of power. It is only xtrans files it's got issues with, but there's ways around. If I spent more time with C1 I might get to like it, but atm i find it a bit messy, they have odd icons and names for controls, definitely takes longer to get along with. If I did grow to prefer it I would probably want the full on version, the Fuji only version feels very restrictive. Many of us use other cameras too.
 
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5,769
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Steve
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For me, no other software out there is laid out as perfectly as LR - it's about as simple a software to use as you can get and it packs a lot of power. It is only xtrans files it's got issues with, but there's ways around. If I spent more time with C1 I might get to like it, but atm i find it a bit messy, they have odd icons and names for controls, definitely takes longer to get along with. If I did grow to prefer it I would probably want the full on version, the Fuji only version feels very restrictive. Many of us use other cameras too.
In LR, I bring the sharpening down to 5 before I do anything else. Do what needs to be done, then select "Photo" then "Edit in", click on PS, and resize & sharpen at that point with a little unsharp mask, then do my borders & logo.

Now, I know it's not a great workflow if you have a large number of files from something like a wedding, but I find it a very effective method, and one that I feel comfortable with. C1 is probably great, but it doesn't have the catalogue features that LR has, and you can't stitch or blend multiple images easily.

There seems to be a "rule" on most of the Fuji FB groups that LR doesn't work, but I reckon it's just uneducated glory hunters regurgitating stuff that was written years ago, before Adobe got its act together, especially with the X-Trans 3 cameras from the T2 onwards. I've left a number of groups as I was just fed up with the misinformation that was being passed around.
 
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951
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Dean
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Have you got Long Exposure Noise Reduction on?? If so the camera will take a second dark image of the same exposure time as the first image, then adjust the original image accordingly and then save.

If you have it off (which most do), then the second image isn’t taken and the camera immediately saves after the first image. You will have to clean up any unlikely hotspots in post production in this scenario
I did not know that, I will check it out later to see. Thanks for the info.
 
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11,877
Name
Keith
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In LR, I bring the sharpening down to 5 before I do anything else. Do what needs to be done, then select "Photo" then "Edit in", click on PS, and resize & sharpen at that point with a little unsharp mask, then do my borders & logo.

Now, I know it's not a great workflow if you have a large number of files from something like a wedding, but I find it a very effective method, and one that I feel comfortable with. C1 is probably great, but it doesn't have the catalogue features that LR has, and you can't stitch or blend multiple images easily.

There seems to be a "rule" on most of the Fuji FB groups that LR doesn't work, but I reckon it's just uneducated glory hunters regurgitating stuff that was written years ago, before Adobe got its act together, especially with the X-Trans 3 cameras from the T2 onwards. I've left a number of groups as I was just fed up with the misinformation that was being passed around.
I don't mind opening PS to sharpen specific files, but it is a PITA if you have a bunch. PS takes an age to open for me, LR not so much [and I have 12GB RAM on an old, but still i7 PC] Once open though it gets easier from there. Maybe just have both open up to begin huh?

I'm with you to an extent on the LR scare-mongers. If you looked waaaay back in this thread you'd find that I was puzzled about it when i had the XT1, wasn't finding the issue much at all, but seemingly the xtrans III series suffered more so. Well, that's what the H has inside, same sensor as the X-T2 and I still manage to avoid it for the most part. I think I will try what you do for a bit and see how it goes, PS is better for sharpening.
 
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Jim
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After a fair bit of deliberation and nearly buying an X-T2 (Sorry Mike...), I upgraded my trusty X-T1 which I've had since new, to a spanking new X-T3 in Silver. I managed to get the £100 trade in bonus (therefore £280 for my T1), a free X-t3 vertical grip, and they were offering 50% off all F2 lenses (23, 35 & 55mm) when buying with the X-T3 and so I went for the 23mm.

I was really not sure about spending the money, but oh my days, the T3 is soooo nice! The feel of the controls are fantastic, viewfinder is superb and the focusing is super quick. Not sure if I'll use the vertical grip much. The 23mm F2 is very good indeed - not sure if my X100 will get used now!

Looking forward to picking up some tips from this great thread and maybe sharing a few shots.

Jim.
 
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5,677
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Paul
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I don't mind opening PS to sharpen specific files, but it is a PITA if you have a bunch. PS takes an age to open for me, LR not so much [and I have 12GB RAM on an old, but still i7 PC] Once open though it gets easier from there. Maybe just have both open up to begin huh?

I'm with you to an extent on the LR scare-mongers. If you looked waaaay back in this thread you'd find that I was puzzled about it when i had the XT1, wasn't finding the issue much at all, but seemingly the xtrans III series suffered more so. Well, that's what the H has inside, same sensor as the X-T2 and I still manage to avoid it for the most part. I think I will try what you do for a bit and see how it goes, PS is better for sharpening.
I find it quite funny that I`ve never got along with LR, considering so many people use it/ prefer it to PS now. I must be in the minority of peeps still enjoying PS. I`ve tried the free C1 and didn`t like it much. I also have Affinity, which is ok. But still go back to PS. Also use iridient sometimes to process raw files.
 
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Malc
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I must be in the minority of peeps still enjoying PS. I`ve tried the free C1 and didn`t like it much. I also have Affinity, which is ok. But still go back to PS. Also use iridient sometimes to process raw files.
I am the same. I have tried varkious alternatives - including LR - but keep going back to PS. I find the workflow with Bridge/ACR/PS just works for me.
 
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