Help firing a Canon 430EX II using a PC flash sync cable thingy

Jonno_dudley

Jonno_dudley

Messages
197
Name
Jonathan Dudley
Edit My Images
No
:help:

Hi

I was guttered to find that the flash i recently purchased failed to have a PC socket for remote firing.

I'm in the process of building a remote trigger with a mate. Which will use infra-red beams to trigger a flash unit making it easier to capture high speed shots like droplets hitting objects, etc. This will be done in low light with the camera set to 'bulb'

Triggering the camera instead (via the remote shutter socket) is also an option but i think that might create a larger time delay (due to slight shutter lag) then triggering the flash. So thought i'd look into ways to trigger the flash.

Anyways, I was wondering whether one of these adapters will allow me to link my 40D to the adapter with use of a pc cord (not hot shoe) then attach my flash to the adapter with use of the hot shoe?? Does anyone know??

I know the adapters are supposed to be used on cameras which do not have a PC socket, to be used as an output to trigger external flash units.

Thanks in advance
 
That adpator looks like it is for connecting a flash without a hot shoe, to a camera with a hot shoe, via a co-ax socket. Not what you want. It has no hot contact in the centre where the black blank is. You need an adaptor that will short the flash's centre contact with the contacts on the side of the foot. There are plenty of them about.

Using open flash technique, as you are suggesting, will work with zero delay. But working in the dark is a pain and if, depending on your subject, you can work with the predictable delay of the camera mirror/shutter mechanism then life gets very much easier.

Using mirror lock up cuts the delay by more than half, and you have got one of the fastest cameras there in the 40D. Apart from the top end Canons and Nikons, there is nothing faster.
 
HoppyUK said:
That adpator looks like it is for connecting a flash without a hot shoe, to a camera with a hot shoe, via a co-ax socket. Not what you want. It has no hot contact in the centre where the black blank is. You need an adaptor that will short the flash's centre contact with the contacts on the side of the foot. There are plenty of them about.

Using open flash technique, as you are suggesting, will work with zero delay. But working in the dark is a pain and if, depending on your subject, you can work with the predictable delay of the camera mirror/shutter mechanism then life gets very much easier.

Using mirror lock up cuts the delay by more than half, and you have got one of the fastest cameras there in the 40D. Apart from the top end Canons and Nikons, there is nothing faster.
Click to expand...


Ok thanks for that hoppyuk. I agree triggering the camera will be better. Working in a darkish environment is never great.

So to trigger the flash manually then, all that needs to be done is to short the centre X-sync pin on the flash unit to the outer metal on the foot?

Cheers Jonno
 
The adapter you need sounds more like this one

104.jpg
 
Jonno_dudley said:
Ok thanks for that hoppyuk. I agree triggering the camera will be better. Working in a darkish environment is never great.

So to trigger the flash manually then, all that needs to be done is to short the centre X-sync pin on the flash unit to the outer metal on the foot?

Cheers Jonno
Click to expand...

Yes, that's it.

If you want to calculate your trip-to-flash shutter delay time, this method is very easy. All you need is a golf ball and measuring tape.
http://www.woodselec.com/calcdelay.htm

This video of a shutter firing is pretty amazing, with timings. Also inks on there, with links to other interesting links.
http://regex.info/blog/2008-09-04/925
 
Cheers that formula seems pretty intense mind, i was thinking more trial and error, lol.

The shutter firing on the nikon is well impressive and with such precision, never imagined it to work like that.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top