Help needed - Lee Grad ND Filters

[raj_kemp]

Having forked out and bought two filters and foundation kit, still confused about by choice of one 0.6 Soft and one 0.9 Hard filters.

Anyone using only two filters or should I also buy 0.6 hard filter or any Std ND filters:shake:

Will be primarily for Landscapes...

Cheers..

 

[TCR4x4]

Buy the Hards, the are more usefull if you can only have 1 type.

Cant say which strength, because it depends entirely on the scene, but I tend to use my 0.6 and 0.9 more than the 0.3.

If you want long exposure stuff, then buy an ND, if not, dont.

In an ideal world, you have both sets of soft and hard for the different scenes you encounter

 

[raj_kemp]

Thanks.
The kits with three filters set are on back order (cheaper), so ordered these two separately. Will I be missing 0.6 hard filter for landscapes in scottish highlands next week.

 

[TCR4x4]

Like I said, its impossible to say. If the sky is 2 stops brighter, then yes. If its isnt, then no.
You can use the 0.6 soft, but its only truely 2 stops at the very top of the filter and graduates down to less than half a stop towards the bottom of the graduation.

 

[raj_kemp]

May bite the bullet and might order 0.6 hard one in the morning.

On a different note, will combining Circular Pol Filter (Screw in type on to the lens and lee will screw on to CPL) with lee filter be beneficial or will it vignette on Tokina 11-16mm.

 

[TCR4x4]

May bite the bullet and might order 0.6 hard one in the morning.

On a different note, will combining Circular Pol Filter (Screw in type on to the lens and lee will screw on to CPL) with lee filter be beneficial or will it vignette on Tokina 11-16mm.

It'll probably vignette, but try it and see. I tried and it was unusable, but that was a 16-35 on a full frame camera. If you only use 1 slot and take the others off the holder you might get away with it.

 

[strax]

I think the soft grads are much more useful than the hard grads. Hard grads are no use with anything on the horizon ie hills, mountains etc. as the grad line is easily seen. Soft grads disguise it much better and can be used with such scenes.

 

[TCR4x4]

I think the soft grads are much more useful than the hard grads. Hard grads are no use with anything on the horizon ie hills, mountains etc. as the grad line is easily seen. Soft grads disguise it much better and can be used with such scenes.

Depends on the camera/lens used. A hard grad is recommened by Lee if you use a DSLR.

Im looking to get a set of hards, as my softs arent performing as well as I'd like, because the Grad to too wide. You only get the true level of ND at the very top edge of the filter, not all the way down like the hards.

 

[jerry12953]

Hard grads are quite usable in most circumstances. If you have an awkward skyline you just have to do your best. You can hold it at any angle to suit the subject matter.

With an uneven skyline the 1 stop would be less noticeable in the places you don't want to see it, I suggest. It has been said that a hard gradation becomes softer at smaller apertures, which makes sense, although I've never noticed it myself.

I get excellent results from a polariser and a 1 stop hard ND grad. Use the polariser as normal and hold the grad gently but firmly against the rim of the lens. That way there's no chance of vignetting, and no fiddling around with holders.