Depending on how much space there is between the mesh/bars, a wide aperture, (low f number) can sometimes defocus the foreground enough to minimise, and if you are lucky, make the mesh/bars disappear. Bon chance.
Depends allot on the size of the mesh and how close you can get, if you are talking Zoo type then get the lens as close as possible, if you have a lens hood and can get that touching the mesh, that should help get it in an area the lens does not focus on the mesh but the actual subject which can hide the mesh for you.
Get as close to the fence as safe. Use as wide an aperture as possible/available. Frame the subject carefully so it's not behind the defocussed wires. See Chris/Cobra's guide as linked to by Stuart.
To add to advice above - I have found it needs to be f2.8 or wider to get shallow enough depth of field on the subject with no cage showing. Above that I found smudgy lines start to show in the pictures.
To add to advice above - I have found it needs to be f2.8 or wider to get shallow enough depth of field on the subject with no cage showing. Above that I found smudgy lines start to show in the pictures.
Also depends on focal length. Longer lenses are much less of a problem, the key is getting close to the wire, preferably almost touching - that last couple of cms makes a difference.
While the fence will often be completely invisible over the subject, the out-of-focus background will often pick up the pattern of the fence and can show as blurred streaks or swirly shapes.
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