The problem with night shooting scenes like this is that the dynamic range far exceeds what the camera is capable of recording, due to the extreme contrast.
What you need to do is decide which part of the scene you want to expose for, the highlights or the shadows.
It looks like you (or the camera) have chosen the latter, and this has resulted in the highlights being completely "blown" and overexposed.
In fact the whole thing looks somewhat overexposed, since I don't see any pure black areas in the overall image.
The situation has not been improved by what appears to be lens flare around the brightest highlight nearest the camera.
What you need to do is decide which part of the scene is your priority, shadow detail or highlights.
If you go with shadow detail then you need to accept that the highlights will be clipped, and once the highlights are clipped you will never be able to retrieve any detail in them.
Personally, when taking a night scene like this, I always dial in at least -1 stop of exposure compensation to try and stop over exposure of the highlights.
This will result in darker shadow areas, which need to be pulled up with the "shadows" slider, which can result in shadow noise, although with modern cameras noise is less of a problem, and in any case can be dealt with by using locally applied noise reduction.
If you want full detail everywhere in the scene then you will need to take a series of bracketed exposures and blend them for an "HDR" result.
I dislike HDR on most things, and particularly on night shots since it results in a highly unrealistic result.
Finally, GET RID OF THE FILTER!
It's undoubtedly contributing to the worst of the flare around the highlight around the street lamp.
The main thing a "Digital Protector Filter" is protecting is the creation of a good image.
IF you MUST use one, then this is a situation where it should be removed.