i think my 24-70 nikon 2.8 is soft...

rampanthamster

rampanthamster

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hi all, i shot a wedding a few weeks ago and whilst i think i got some good images, i noticed going through them that a lot of them were strangely soft. I was using my 24-70 the vast majority of the time and i think that could be the issue.

I just did a quick test on a tripod shooting a piece of paper with some text on and whilst it was reasonably sharp in the middle, it badly softened towards the edges, at 2.8, 4, 6.3 even...at 7.1 it was ok, but nowhere near as sharp as my 50mm 1.4, which at 2.8 was absolutely pin sharp.

Now, i know prime lenses are obviously sharper, but the difference was extreme. Should i play about with micro adjustments on my d700 and see if i can get it any better, or is it likely that i have a duff lens?

And if i do have a duff lens, do i have to send it to nikon or can i get a replacement from calumet (i bought it in store)

Thanks!
 
24-70 2.8 shouldn't be soft.
Assuming that this is a recent purchase from Calumet I would be going back and taking up the issue with them, taking any 'evidence' with you.
As the seller, if it is faulty, it is their responsibility to resolve any faults and if it is a very recent purchase I would be looking for a replacement.
 
hi here's a few images, i know it's not a totally scientific test and i realise the book isn't the best tool to use, but it was done on a tripod - same focal length of 50mm and using a timer release to eliminate any camera shake.

here's the full scene i was shooting (but resized):

50mm 1.4d @ f4:
50f4full.jpg


and now here's some close in crops of the 24-70 bottom of the book

24-70 @ 2.8:

24702.8.jpg


24-70 @ f4

2470f4.jpg


and the 50mm 1.4d @ f4 to compare:

50f4.jpg


24-70 @ f8

2470f8.jpg
 
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I think at such long shutter times you are going to get vibration coming in to the equation from camera mechanism movements so not really a good test, try shooting outdoor or up the iso and fill the frame, then post the results.
 
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Doesn't look like it's focusing correctly?
 
SussexBlue said:
I think at such long shutter times you are going to get vibration coming in to the equation from camera mechanism movements so not really a good test, try shooting outdoor or up the iso and fill the frame, then post the results.
Click to expand...

thanks - i'm going to have another bash at doing these later.

I suppose it could be an issue with the d700? Although the 50mm shots are pin sharp, at the centre at least.
 
rampanthamster said:
thanks - i'm going to have another bash at doing these later.

I suppose it could be an issue with the d700? Although the 50mm shots are pin sharp, at the centre at least.
Click to expand...

Agreed but don't forget the 24-70 is a lot heavier and protrudes further so any movement at all is going to show more, especially at such low speeds, I'll keep an eye out for when you give it another try.
 
rampanthamster said:
should i look into printing out one of those test chart things? Can anyone recommend one
Click to expand...

No. a box of cereal standing up with a ruler at 45* to it facing the camera is ideal. Do it in good light and make sure you're a decent distance away and refocus every time.
 
thanks guys - i'll revisit all this tomorrow when it's lighter. what is a 'decent distance' by the way dean? also, you mean i should lean the ruler at a 45 degree angle against the top of the box?
 
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well, i took it back to calumet yesterday and they've sent it back to nikon under warentee. Apparently i need to wait 2 or 3 weeks to get it back :(

i just hope they find fault with it and do actually do something. If they don't, and decide it's ok, i don't really think i'll be wanting to keep the lens!
 
yeah, they were raw with the default sharpening of 25 done i think (i keep meaning to change my lightroom preferences to not do ANY sharpening when importing).

Your shots look much sharper i'd say, so i'm sure there has to be something wrong with the lens. I just hope nikon agree and do something about it!

what would happen if they decide it's fine but i don't want to keep it??
 
mine were on a tripod.

yeah - as i said, i'd shot a wedding a couple of weeks ago and quite a few images seemed too soft, especially away from the centre. I'm pretty sure a £1200 lens shouldn't be like that. We'll see, i'll be sure to report back here!
 
A good way of checking for focusing issues is to put the camera on a tripod and take an image using the single point AF then take an identical photo using the contrast detection in live view. The contrast detection in live view focuses backwards and forwards for the sharpest possible image, unlike the the regular phase detection system. If the two images are equally sharp then the problem is probably with the lens if the live view images is sharper the you probably have a problem with the camera body.
 
ah5168 said:
A good way of checking for focusing issues is to put the camera on a tripod and take an image using the single point AF then take an identical photo using the contrast detection in live view. The contrast detection in live view focuses backwards and forwards for the sharpest possible image, unlike the the regular phase detection system. If the two images are equally sharp then the problem is probably with the lens if the live view images is sharper the you probably have a problem with the camera body.
Click to expand...
:thinking:
 
scottthehat said:
ok rowan could you post a picture you think is soft, also what shutter speed was you using on the tripod.
Click to expand...

alas, i deleted the pics mate. Not much point in going over it now any way, seeing as the lens has gone back. It was soft in real world testing as well, at a wedding i did. I took over 1500 shots with it and although some were fine, things were definitely not as sharp in many of them as they should be
 
Don't forget -Closest focusing distance: 0.38 m (at 50 mm) for this 24-70mm lens. so you really need to be further away than that to test this lens properly. This is often something overlooked when checking out a lens and posting photos showing a problem

Realspeed
 
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rampanthamster said:
hi here's a few images, i know it's not a totally scientific test and i realise the book isn't the best tool to use, but it was done on a tripod - same focal length of 50mm and using a timer release to eliminate any camera shake.

here's the full scene i was shooting (but resized):

50mm 1.4d @ f4:
50f4full.jpg


and now here's some close in crops of the 24-70 bottom of the book

24-70 @ 2.8:

24702.8.jpg


24-70 @ f4

2470f4.jpg


and the 50mm 1.4d @ f4 to compare:

50f4.jpg


24-70 @ f8

2470f8.jpg
Click to expand...

Am I the only one that thinks that looks a lot more like camera shake than lens softness?
What is it they say about a workman blaming his tools?
 
i can see what you're both saying, an i agree that those tests were flawed. I did take some other shots the following morning using much higher shutter speeds and got similar results.

fixedimage - it could be camera shake except that it's nice and sharp in the middle of the frame, but soft at the bottom of the frame (which is the section of the image that i posted). All the shots were taken on a timer release btw. And with regards to your comment about a workman and his tools (not that i'm taking offence) - i am perfectly happy with all my other lenses and their sharpness...i'm using this lens in the same way and it's producing results which i personally find unacceptable for a 1200 pound bit of pro gear.
 
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ah5168 said:
A good way of checking for focusing issues is to put the camera on a tripod and take an image using the single point AF then take an identical photo using the contrast detection in live view. The contrast detection in live view focuses backwards and forwards for the sharpest possible image, unlike the the regular phase detection system. If the two images are equally sharp then the problem is probably with the lens if the live view images is sharper the you probably have a problem with the camera body.
Click to expand...

I'm surprised this hasn't been tried TBH.
 
Reading the above and everything the OP has said, I'm thinking this is possibly more of a 'soft copy' issue than a focusing problem.

You can test it in various ways but since this seems like a new purchase the easiest and best way would be to go back to the shop and shoot a few images out of the door side by side with another copy.
 
well, i got a call from camulet a couple of days ago to say that my lens is ready to pick up. I can't get there until tomorrow afternoon but i did ask them if nikon had actually done anything to it.

"oh yes, there's a whole list of things that they've sorted out with it" came the reply...so fingers crossed i will now have a pukka copy that's been reared back to full health by the nikon tech geeks.

I'll update tomorrow or sunday (picking up just before work, so unlikely to get a chance to check it tomorrow) :)
 
got it back and ran a few very quick hand held tests. Not convinced at all that it's actually any sharper than it was, but will do more tests tomorrow and compare against my 16-35..

what are my chances of getting a full refund from calumet if i'm still not happy??
 
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