Landscape photography

Ha :D

I use Lee ND Grad Filters, fantastic reputation. I also use a B&W (brand, not style), ND1000, which is a 10 stop.

The Lee Filters, you can get soft or hard edged, which will determine how extreme the gradient is. Basically use them to hold back brighter areas of an image (Normally the sky)...

With the filter system I got, you need...

Lee Wide Angle Adapter Ring (depending on lens)
Lee Universal Hood (Lovely!)
Lee Soft ND Filter Pack (.3, .6 and .9)

I paid about £250 to £280 ish.

The B&W 10 stop blocks so much light, that you can get really REALLY long exposures throughout the day. I think it an absolutely stonking bit of kit, your shots can adopt an entirely new look. Great for STATIC landscapes (Moving clouds is OK), and Swirly seascapes.... I paid £80 or so.

There are other filters, but not that I use. I have a circular polariser, but dunno how best to use, so it stays in bag.

Fancy having a stab? Landscape photography is absolutely relaxing, fun and it opens your eyes big time. I love it.

Gary.
 
Well just picked up my first digital slr and having a play around with it at the moment.

Being a climber and fell runner landscape photography is definitely where I want to go with my photography.

What are peoples thoughts on where to start with filters. Lee are obviously fairly big bucks would Hoya or Cokin be worth looking at?

I saw this on Warehouse Express the other day, is this worth consideration: http://www.warehouseexpress.com/product/default.aspx?sku=1000795

Oh by the way would be very keen to do a landscape photography meet if anyone is up for it - Lakes, Scotland etc.
 
Just a quickie!. I understand how a ND Grad Filter can be useful when using it for landscapes (split horizon etc..) but in what circumstances would you just use a ND Filter for Landscapes. Genuine question.

Mike - I've bought one of those Cokin ND grad kits but not as yet used it in anger.
 
Chonga said:
but in what circumstances would you just use a ND Filter for Landscapes.
Click to expand...

Any time when you want a longer exposure... to slow water, catch cloud movement, motion of anything else moving like a train etc.
 
68lbs said:
Any time when you want a longer exposure... to slow water, catch cloud movement, motion of anything else moving like a train etc.
Click to expand...

Thanks :)
 
ND filters are also if you want a really shallow depth of field in harsh sunlight. For example - You want to take a picture of a statue's hand so that the rest of it is out of focus, so you put your lens to f/2.8, but this causes the shutter speed to not be slow enough - it exceeds 1/8000, so you stick on an ND filter :thumbs:
 
foodpoison said:
ND filters are also if you want a really shallow depth of field in harsh sunlight. For example - You want to take a picture of a statue's hand so that the rest of it is out of focus, so you put your lens to f/2.8, but this causes the shutter speed to not be slow enough - it exceeds 1/8000, so you stick on an ND filter :thumbs:
Click to expand...

Thanks FP. Getting the gist now. Think I'd better add some ND Filters to my kit.:)
 
Filters can be useful for certain situations but you don't *need* a filter to take a good landscape shot.

Most of the time I have no filter fitted (not even a UV/ lens protector) and am happy with the results. Sometimes the light means I might fit a polariser or ND grad but I prefer a natural look whenever possible.

Grads can get cloud detail in a too bright sky but choosing too dark a grad filter can make the picture look wrong.

Learn how to compose a good landscape then worry about filters if you see things about the exposure that could be better.
 
I've never needed an ND filter for landscapes, although maybe that's because I mostly do landscapes in the UK where the light isn't too bright ;)

A polariser and ND grads are pretty much essential though. I wouldn't use the coloured grads as I don't like the artificial effect they give although some people like the more subtle coloured ones.

What you buy is going to depend on what lenses you will use them on. If you have a very wide angle lens like a 10-22 you'll not be able to use the Cokin A-series, so will either need to use the bigger Cokin P or similar B&W etc, or use screw-in filters that aren't too deep that they cause vignetting.
 
For sunrise / sunset shots I always use an ND grad to balance the sky / ground exposure. Generally I set the camera to manual and bracket my shots. Have also used ND filters to achieve slow speeds for blurred water effects that are not achievable any other way.
One point when using either... as they slow the shutter speed significantly then I find a tripod essential.

H
 
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