Well if it was the overriding feature you would be buying a D700. The D90 and D300 will be almost the same as they share the same sensor, although jpgs are meant to be better in the D90.
Presuming that the OP wants low noise, they'll be shooting in low(ish) light, so good fast lenses, Image stabilisation systems and a kicking AF system will do far more for IQ than 'technically' the best noise pattern - which is at best a bit subjective anyway;
JPEG noise or RAW noise - ability to deal with noise within bundled software - availability of NR software, comparisons at 100% on screen vs. printed output, what size prints?
I personally find that noise that's quite off-putting on screen can be non-existent in reasonable sized prints. And I appreciate that we're moving forward but I can get 10x8 prints shot at 1600iso and they look great, I couldn't do that even on MF film - so it's also a matter of expectations and a realisation that we're buffering up against the bleeding edge of technology with our high ISO DSLR's.
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