mirror lock up

[wallyboy]

reading an article about landscapes recently, the togger said use mirror lock up, i tried this on my nikon d3100 and when set from the menu, it knocks out all the functions, anyone any ideas what i'm doing wrong, cheers

 

[TCR4x4]

reading an article about landscapes recently, the togger said use mirror lock up, i tried this on my nikon d3100 and when set from the menu, it knocks out all the functions, anyone any ideas what i'm doing wrong, cheers

I believe mirror lock up on the d3100 is for sensor cleaning functions only, not for shooting. I'm afraid you'll need a more advanced camera for that function.

 

[wallyboy]

cheers tom, shame about that,
you only get 30s in live view,

 

[martyp]

When you say you only get 30s in live view, do you mean the maximum duration for the shutter to remain open?

If so, you can switch the camera to 'M' (manual) mode, dial in the f/stop required and then keep slowing the shutter speed down until 'bulb' is displayed. When used with a cable release you can then hold the shutter open for as long as you require.

That is totally different from mirror lock up though. Mirror lock up works by eliminating any internal vibrations from the mirror opening inside the camera which can affect sharpness. When enabled you focus as per normal, then the first full press of the shutter will flip the mirror up and after a second or so you press the shutter button again and then the sensor is exposed. To get the most out of it you need a cable release as pressing the button will cause more vibration than the mirror anyway.

Hope that helps?

 

[4wd]

It makes precious little difference anyway, a good idea to use the self-timer on short delay e.g. 2 seconds to minimise vibration.

 

[wallyboy]

When you say you only get 30s in live view, do you mean the maximum duration for the shutter to remain open?

If so, you can switch the camera to 'M' (manual) mode, dial in the f/stop required and then keep slowing the shutter speed down until 'bulb' is displayed. When used with a cable release you can then hold the shutter open for as long as you require.

That is totally different from mirror lock up though. Mirror lock up works by eliminating any internal vibrations from the mirror opening inside the camera which can affect sharpness. When enabled you focus as per normal, then the first full press of the shutter will flip the mirror up and after a second or so you press the shutter button again and then the sensor is exposed. To get the most out of it you need a cable release as pressing the button will cause more vibration than the mirror anyway.

thanks for that, the 30s is the ammount of time live view is open from your last command,


Hope that helps?

 

[TCR4x4]

It makes precious little difference anyway, a good idea to use the self-timer on short delay e.g. 2 seconds to minimise vibration.

That still has mirror slap though, which is the point on mirror lock up. It does make a difference although granted probably not enough to be noticeable on a d3100.

 

[towershot]

It makes precious little difference anyway, a good idea to use the self-timer on short delay e.g. 2 seconds to minimise vibration.

Beg to differ, it makes a lot of difference in landscape,along with a remote as said it does away with a lot of vibration.
Have D9 on my menu as it is quicker than the dial on the top.
Never use it for moving objects though ,as they are gone to quick.
On one of the DVDs from Tom Haog (was it)
He uses a D80 with mirror lock and then without and you can definitely see the difference.

 

[wallyboy]

That still has mirror slap though, which is the point on mirror lock up. It does make a difference although granted probably not enough to be noticeable on a d3100.

so would a good technique be, go in live view, which will lift mirror, dial in settings and fire away,

the only prob i can think of is not being able to see the screen in bright light

 

[TCR4x4]

so would a good technique be, go in live view, which will lift mirror, dial in settings and fire away,

the only prob i can think of is not being able to see the screen in bright light

But live view drops the mirror again and relifts it. So defeats the object. Its no different to shooting normally. Infact probbaly worse, as the mirror has even more movement and will take longer to settle.

 

[towershot]

But live view drops the mirror again and relifts it. So defeats the object. Its no different to shooting normally. Infact probbaly worse, as the mirror has even more movement and will take longer to settle.

You know Tom, I just got the camera out and tried it as I thought in Manual focus you could work around that in live view.
How wrong I was......:bonk:

 

[wallyboy]

But live view drops the mirror again and relifts it. So defeats the object. Its no different to shooting normally. Infact probbaly worse, as the mirror has even more movement and will take longer to settle.

cheers tom back to the drawing board

You know Tom, I just got the camera out and tried it as I thought in Manual focus you could work around that in live view.
How wrong I was......:bonk:

that saved me a job, i was going to ttry that to-night