Motorsport body and lens

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geordiecraig101

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Craig Pearsom
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Hi there people, I'm looking for advice and what would be a good step up for body and lens for Motorsport photography.

I'm currently using a Panasonic FZ1000 Bridge camera and while its ok and can get reasonable results, I feel like I've hit the limit of what it can do and so I'm looking to step up to either a mirrorless or DSLR.

I'm open to any suggestions tho max limit of £1500.
 
Second hand? Not sure on prices so maybe newer available but how about

Canon 7D mk2 second hand
100-400 mk2 second hand

Or

70-300L

I am still shooting the original of these 2 and they still produce good images on my R5

70-200 f4L
300 F4L IS

Possibly people with better knowledge of second hand prices could advise if a newer body is within this bracket.
 
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Welcome to the forum, Craig ! For vintage car rallies I use a NIKON D 500 and the NIKKOR 4/70 - 200 to take pics like these :


DSC_7611-d500c2.jpg



DSC_7613-d500c.jpg



DSC_7615-d500c.jpg
 
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The only race meetings I don't go to are Drag and Bike events, other than that as long as its got 4 wheels then I'm happy. I'm not interested in video performance as ive got a dedicated camcorder for that.
 
If you're not worried about camera weight or shutter count then the world is your oyster as you can get some pro gear for not much money these days.
Things like
Nikon D500
Nikon D4
Canon 7D MkII (is better I believe)
Canon 1Dx (first one)

If you're looking mirrorless then
Olympus OMD 1 MkII
Olympus OMD- EM1X

Fujifilm XT-3 or XT4

Can't comment on Sony as I don't know the range very well but just a Quick Look on the used market they maybe? out of budget if you're looking of a lens as well.

Then it is choice of what lens
A short zoom something like 28-100 range to cover paddock/pits area and some corners you can get close to the track.
Then a longer zoom anything that covers up to 400mm but you can in many cases get away with up to 300 and then again a big choice from the manufactures own lens to those made by Sigma or Tamron.
 
for circuit racing shots in the UK you'll want a lens with a focal length covering 300mm, possibly more.

I shoot Canon, so will talk about what I know best.

Bodies - Canon 1D series is a bombproof professional level camera, built to last. 1DX were all full frame, and the 1DX Mk II is excellent value at the moment as a used purchase.
7D Mark 2 / 80D / 90D are also capable prosumer grade cameras.
If buying new, I'd look at Canon R7 mirrorless.

I use a 1DX Mk II and an R7 with a EF-RF lens adaptor.

Lenses
My go-to lens is a 100-400 L Mk II although pricey. The Sigma/Tamron -600mm lenses would be worth looking at. You'll need a shorter lens for paddock shots.
 
To add to the useful info above, there's a definite distinction between Rallying and most circuit racing.

the advantage Rallying has is that it's possible to get really close to the action; I shoot it with a 70-200 and an ultra wide angle zoom, the disadvantage is that the light levels are lower, so you'd want the 2.8 whereas for circuit racing the 100-400 is fine.

I might be tempted to advise a 7dII or 1dIII a 70-200 2.8 and a 1.4x converter, all of which might be doable within budget.
 
Phil V said:
To add to the useful info above, there's a definite distinction between Rallying and most circuit racing.

the advantage Rallying has is that it's possible to get really close to the action; I shoot it with a 70-200 and an ultra wide angle zoom, the disadvantage is that the light levels are lower, so you'd want the 2.8 whereas for circuit racing the 100-400 is fine.

I might be tempted to advise a 7dII or 1dIII a 70-200 2.8 and a 1.4x converter, all of which might be doable within budget.
Click to expand...

Hi, this is also my approach. Circuit racing I have never tried, because of access restrictions for hobby photographers.
 
Rallying happens in the wrong part of the country for me, so I'm not a bobblehatter, and I enjoy circuit racing.

Access is always getting harder as risk-averse circuit bosses think that keeping cars or bits of cars out of the spectator areas is a good idea - but pretty much all circuits have a number of decent angles for the hobby photographer without media accreditation. There are some circuits which have good access and minimal catch fencing.

There are many times where you don't want the car filling the frame - but I reserve the ultra-wide mostly for the inside of the first corner at Spa-Francorchamps (which is not public access)
 
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Not really going to help much but I've used everything from 8mm fisheye on FF up to 400mm with a 1,4x teleconverter on a crop body. The fisheye shots were for detail in the paddock area, getting right up close to velocity stacks and valve gear at classic/vintage car hillclimbs while the long lens has been used on the track at the same sort of event and at circuits. Some circuits have better access than others and different classes of car/bike may well have different restrictions too.
A fast frame rate can help but I've had plenty of good keepers using a totally manual film camera too.
Don't forget to enjoy the action through your eyes as well as a viewfinder!!!
 
Cheers for everyone's suggestions, I've spent god knows how many hours comparing bodies, lenses and prices, its a total minefield.

One set up that I'm looking at and it hardly gets mentioned is a Fuji XT4 with a Fuji 70-300 lens. It seams to go totally under the radar and just wondering if anyone has any experience with those? Cheers once again
 
andrewc said:
for circuit racing shots in the UK you'll want a lens with a focal length covering 300mm, possibly more.

I shoot Canon, so will talk about what I know best.

Bodies - Canon 1D series is a bombproof professional level camera, built to last. 1DX were all full frame, and the 1DX Mk II is excellent value at the moment as a used purchase.
7D Mark 2 / 80D / 90D are also capable prosumer grade cameras.
If buying new, I'd look at Canon R7 mirrorless.

I use a 1DX Mk II and an R7 with a EF-RF lens adaptor.

Lenses
My go-to lens is a 100-400 L Mk II although pricey. The Sigma/Tamron -600mm lenses would be worth looking at. You'll need a shorter lens for paddock shots.
Click to expand...
This depends, I've shot at Donington, Oulton Park, Cadwell, Thruxton and Silvertsone with a 70-200mm, sometimes even at the short end. I have of course shot longer, on occasion with an 800mm eq.
geordiecraig101 said:
Cheers for everyone's suggestions, I've spent god knows how many hours comparing bodies, lenses and prices, its a total minefield.

One set up that I'm looking at and it hardly gets mentioned is a Fuji XT4 with a Fuji 70-300 lens. It seams to go totally under the radar and just wondering if anyone has any experience with those? Cheers once again
Click to expand...
The XT4 is a great camera, I just have a love hate reletionship with Fuji. Also the XT4 doesn't have a big grip which is not great for use with longer lenses so you may need to invest in a larger grip for it.

Another good setup if you're happy to buy used is a Nikon D750 and 200-500mm lens, this will give you fantastic IQ. You could also look at the Tamron gen 2 or Sigma 150-600mm.

I've also shot many motorsport events with the Olympus EM1-II and 40-150mm f2.8 Pro (80-300mm eq) and this is a great lightweight setup, here's a couple of images shot with the Olympus gear


P6302247-Edit-Edit by Toby Gunnee, on Flickr

P8246787 by Toby Gunnee, on Flickr
 
geordiecraig101 said:
Cheers for everyone's suggestions, I've spent god knows how many hours comparing bodies, lenses and prices, its a total minefield.

One set up that I'm looking at and it hardly gets mentioned is a Fuji XT4 with a Fuji 70-300 lens. It seams to go totally under the radar and just wondering if anyone has any experience with those? Cheers once again
Click to expand...
I shoot motorsport with a Fuji X-T4 and the Fuji 100-400mm lens. You could get this setup used for just about within your budget I think. The AF tracking is apparently nowhere near as good as a Canon or Sony mirrorless but I've found the camera excellent for motorsport work. The 70-300 is also a good lens, and has the advantage of being significantly smaller and lighter than the 100-400. The film simulations are also good for easily creating different looks using a Fuji camera. I use Classic Neg for a very film-like look for historic racing, and Provia or Pro Neg Hi for modern stuff for a more vibrant look. It's not the obvious choice for a sports body, but doing the same thing as everyone else is boring. I don't regret getting it over a Canon or Sony body for one second, it's a wonderful camera.

British GT Championship 2023 by Richard Crawford, on Flickr

British GT Championship 2023 by Richard Crawford, on Flickr

GT Cup Donington Park April 2023 by Richard Crawford, on Flickr

The Oulton Park Gold Cup 2023 by Richard Crawford, on Flickr

The Oulton Park Gold Cup 2023 by Richard Crawford, on Flickr

Silverstone Classic 2022 by Richard Crawford, on Flickr

British GT Championship 2023 by Richard Crawford, on Flickr
 
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snerkler said:
The XT4 is a great camera, I just have a love hate reletionship with Fuji. Also the XT4 doesn't have a big grip which is not great for use with longer lenses so you may need to invest in a larger grip for it.
Click to expand...
I bought this SmallRig grip for my X-T4, transforms the handling of the camera with the 100-400mm https://www.amazon.co.uk/SMALLRIG-Fujifilm-Aluminum-Quick-Release/dp/B08BRTTVSH

You can also get the battery grip used for under £40 now the camera is out of production, I'm tempted to get one before the season starts
 
Phil V said:
To add to the useful info above, there's a definite distinction between Rallying and most circuit racing.

the advantage Rallying has is that it's possible to get really close to the action; I shoot it with a 70-200 and an ultra wide angle zoom, the disadvantage is that the light levels are lower, so you'd want the 2.8 whereas for circuit racing the 100-400 is fine.

I might be tempted to advise a 7dII or 1dIII a 70-200 2.8 and a 1.4x converter, all of which might be doable within budget.
Click to expand...

Before upgrading to the 100-500 I shot with the 70-200 F4 (original non IS) and 300 F4L for years and still use them to this day. Of course if budget permits go with the 70-200 F2.8 and a converter but I still use the 300 F4L to this day when light doesn't permit the 100-500 on the R5 and it does the job.

Also worth a concideration is that if you are behind the fences (and the fences seem to have got worse over the years for this, a thicker wire mesh) is go with 2.8 if you can as you need something thats going to get through them.

A final thing worth thinking about is a poleriser. I very rairly shoot cars with windscreens without one on.
 
Took this one with a Canon EOS 20D and a Sigma 70-300

39240498340_b75fbf5ccb_o.jpeg
Upgraded a few years ago to a 7Dii and 100-400mm ii, and unsurprisingly is a much more capable setup.
 
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GeeJay57 said:
Took this one with a Canon EOS 20D and a Sigma 70-300

View attachment 411245
Upgraded a few years ago to a 7Dii and 100-400mm ii, and unsurprisingly is a much more capable setup.
Click to expand...

agree to an extent that a newer body will produce higher resolution images and the new generation of mirrorless particulally have better focusing capabilities but IMHO the 20D was excelent. Always produced much much cleaner, contrast full images than my 7D and a lot of the images still stand up to this day. On the subject of the above image - its inspired me to post a few taken on the 20d. all with either the 20d and a 70-200 F4L or 300 F4L (plus 1.4x TC mk2 possibly)

348737151_194301956906587_1834537560770859037_n.jpg
352129709_194351826901600_186108203055383185_n.jpg
346645698_194302356906547_4441753807255937695_n.jpg
346309641_194302180239898_730050684252249673_n.jpg



The Point being its often as much as about how you use it as what you use - and any of the combinations offered to the OP will work well as long as he uses his knowledge and experience to get the best out of them.
 
So I've eventually gone for the Fuji XT-4 and Fuji XF 70-300 lens. Managed to pic those up for £1565 used with extra 2 year warranty from mpb.com. Cheers for everyone's input, been head banging going thru all the options but great fun at the same time, so cheers once again . These are a few shots i got last year with the Panasonic FZ1000 Bridge Camera _4660117.jpg_4670607_080421.jpgP4690322-Enhanced-NR-2.jpgP4690584-Enhanced-NR.jpgP4720701-Enhanced-NR.jpg
 
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