ND Filter

MattF

MattF

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Matt
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Hi,

I am looking for a ND filter to enable me to take pictures with long shutter speeds in bright conditions. I went on the Jessops website and I am a bit confused as to what X# I would need (there is X4, X8 etc).

Could anyone help me out here?

Thanks,
Matt
 
I just bought a 2 and a 4 and have had to stack them for some shots and that’s still not enough so will be buying an 8 soon.

I would, if you can, suggest getting a 4 and an 8 to start with.

Get other opinions though.
 
Just bought one from surrey photo ... via ebay.

Cheapest i found - 11.99 and very quick delivery.

PS - go for the ND8.

Anth
 
Look here for a chart showing how you would have to alter your shutter speeds with various ND filters attached. You'll want a 6-stop (ND64) or 10-stop (ND1000) if you want really long exposures. I know B+W make these, but I'm not sure who else do.
 
HI Matt & all
I've looked at the link chart and the times quoted look horrendously long.
What strength ND is needed for a simple milky sea shot in bright sunlight ?
 
Rockshifter said:
HI Matt & all
I've looked at the link chart and the times quoted look horrendously long.
What strength ND is needed for a simple milky sea shot in bright sunlight ?
Click to expand...

Search for long exposure pictures on flickr. See what exposure times are given in the exif data of pictures that have the effect you want. Next, put your camera on aperture priority and point it outside in the kind of conditions you envisage you'll be taking pictures in. See what range of exposure times it comes up with for a range of apertures. Use the chart to see what strength filter you'll need to lengthen those times to match the ones you want.
 
A polariser does a pretty good job of NDing a scene - by 4 stops when strongly polarised. That will get your shutter speed down a bit and serve other functions too.

Whatever you buy - buy the very best. Cheap filters will induce colour casts and at worst you will get refraction and distortion through them. I have seen some really terrible filters, like looking through bathroom shot glass! So be careful and don't buy something because it is cheap - you will only end up being disappointed. Better to not buy it at all than buy cheap and nasty.

Of course, the cheapest ND of all is time - just wait for twilight!
 
MattF said:
Hi,

I am looking for a ND filter to enable me to take pictures with long shutter speeds in bright conditions. I went on the Jessops website and I am a bit confused as to what X# I would need (there is X4, X8 etc).

Could anyone help me out here?

Thanks,
Matt
Click to expand...

Matt,

the number after the 'X' relates to the amount of exposure compensation needed when the filter is added. a filter factor of x2 is one stop. x4 is 2 stops. x8 is 3 stops. So, as you can see, the factor is going up in powers of 2.

Some manufacturers, notably lee use log density units. 0.3 is one stop, 0.6 is 2 stops. 0.9 is 3 stops.

Hope that helps.

Mark
 
I had a go at seascapes when in Lyme Regis, Dorset, but had to get up early or stay late to get the effect I was after.

Lensflare
I did use a polariser on some shots which helped a little.
I looked at Milou's shots, taken in full sun conditions (http://www.milouvision.com/archives/4159_1048088568/176980) of the area and liked the shots / effect using a Lee at 0.9.
I think an ND filter is definitely on my buy list !
 
kiasdad said:
Matt,

the number after the 'X' relates to the amount of exposure compensation needed when the filter is added. a filter factor of x2 is one stop. x4 is 2 stops. x8 is 3 stops. So, as you can see, the factor is going up in powers of 2.

Some manufacturers, notably lee use log density units. 0.3 is one stop, 0.6 is 2 stops. 0.9 is 3 stops.

Hope that helps.

Mark
Click to expand...

I am also looking for a "high" stop filter. I currently use colkin and have nd8 etc (3 stops) but I want to get a filter (cokin p-series fit) in the region of 8 stops or more to do experimental long exposure shots. I have heard though that some photographers who have already used them are finding fault in that they resulting in "colour bands" across the shots...any ideas why?
 
Haven't heard the colour banding thing personally. I recently used stacked ND8s to get the shots I was after on Bondi beach, only problem was that it was very windy. Unfortunately because of the small amount of motion blur there were only a couple of keepers.
 
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