New to landscape ; Settings

potter

potter

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Name
Adam
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Hi All,

I'm wanting to start some landscape photography, hopefully go out later and have a try.

I dont have a wide lens, so will prob use a nikon 18-70 or 18-55 kit lens.

My question... Is there any settings I need to use to make sure the sky isnt blown out? Its a nice sunny day, but there are clouds in the sky, when I have previously shot outside, the sky has been awful in the pictures. Is it a case of using ND filters? (I do have some cheap ebay ones someone gave to me)

Any help would be great.

Adam
 
The histogram can help assess the exposure.

There are 3 ways to handle extreme dynamic range. HDR, ND grad filters and post process blending of 2 images.
(Dynamic range is the spread of light from the darkest to lightest values.)

HDR has been covered in depth here and elsewhere, but basically it involves shooting a series of shots at different exposures. Commonly, 3 shots are taken, 1 at normal camera metered value, 1 2 stops less and a third at 2 stops more than the camera 'normal' value. Your camera should be able to bracket exposures automatically for you.

Neutral Density Graduated filters or ND Grads for short, work by reducing the light entering the lens through the dark part of the filter, thereby balancing the light and dark elements.
The dark part has to be lined up with the bright (sky) part of the scene. This method is best for those who prefer to get everything right 'in camera.' The disadvantages are cost and speed, although with practice, lining up can be easier. There are 2 types of ND Grad, soft and hard. With soft grads, the dark section gradually lightens, whereas the hard version has a sudden and sharp change. These hard grads tend to be used for seascapes where the horizon is level.
Cost can be the biggest drawback as there are various strengths available. Commonly, these are 1, 2 and 3 stops, although you can also get them in half stop increments. This means that you could end up with at least 6 filters, which can be expensive. Many users have 2, 1 each of soft and hard at 2 stop strength. This seems to be a good compromise.

Post processing of blended images involves taking 2 shots, one exposed for the foreground and another for the sky. These are then blended together in your editing program, providing it can support layers. There are numerous tutorials on the subject on the Web.
 
Is it a case of using ND filters?
Click to expand...
pretty much - if the range of light is too much to capture across the image
another idea would be HDR photography - take different exposures of the same shot and overlay to get the sky in
 
There are no magic settings, just use a tripod and keep the ISO low, check the histogram to see if you have blown the sky out, or bracket the exposures.
 
Craikeybaby said:
There are no magic settings, just use a tripod and keep the ISO low, check the histogram to see if you have blown the sky out, or bracket the exposures.
Click to expand...

This, and don't get carried away with your smallest aperture, f8-13 will give you enough DoF for most things without risking diffraction.

Low ISO, mirror lockup, tripod, cable release, bosh!
 
potter said:
Hi All,

I have previously shot outside, the sky has been awful in the pictures. Is it a case of using ND filters?
Click to expand...

Remember standard ND filters wont make a difference for this you need graduated ND filters. You need to lower the exposure in just the sky, not the whole image.
 
TCR4x4 said:
Remember standard ND filters wont make a difference for this you need graduated ND filters. You need to lower the exposure in just the sky, not the whole image.
Click to expand...

:plus1:

Adam, do you have photoshop to use in post processing? If so you may find the 2 or 3 shot bracketing technique workable, this is assuming you havent got ND grad filters yet. Depending on your camera you should be able to set it up to take 3 pictures at different exposures. the difference between the exposures can be set, usually between 1/3rd of a stop and 2 stops. To start with try it at plus and minus 1 stop. To do this you also, ideally, need to use a tripod so that nothing moves in each frame. (although clouds, trees in the wind, water etc cant be helped.)

Once you have the bracketed exposures you can bring them in photoshop and copy and paste the good sky image into to the good foreground image as a new layer and then use a mask to reveal the relevant bits.
 
You should be able to use the mask technique in GIMP Id have thought
 
if the weather doesnt allow, try youtubing 'gimp' and 'masks'. Mind you you might get some unexpected results!!

:eek: :LOL:
 
Only thing I'd add is if your landscape includes a sunrise or sunset leave yourself plenty of time to get to where you want to be.

I've lost plenty of shots by being too late.

This (free for PC and Mac, but costs for iphone) http://photoephemeris.com/ is useful.

Dave
 
All advice above is great, but, also remember to use your lens good if you have one. If you're shooting at a 90-45 degree angle to sun it'll cut out lens flare which could otherwise dramatically reduce contrast in your image and add some unpleasant side effects

Also, as above... Histogram, grad nd filters, tripod. Oh and also try using mirror lock up.

Ben
 
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