Nikon 105 2.8 macro

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Andrew
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Why doesn't the aperture on this lens stay at 2.8?? It sometimes goes to 3 or 4 what ever
 
What aperture are people suppose to use for macro then pls just a quick pointer... I only tend to use the 2.8 for portraits..
 
Not the most experienced Macro togger as I haven't got out with my macro lens yet that much :D but I would say about f/11, f/16 and onwards for small small subjects...

Thank Joe...
 
Hi

Yup the f# changes the closer you get. First reason, because the focus plane is so small you wont be get the focus unless by accident, miniscule wobbles = missed focus. 2nd I think I recall something about the construction of the lens, that it moves the aperture because of the way it is built/

As to macro shots, unless you are stacking, probably using f11 and higher number...
 
So are all macro lens like this? As when I use to have my Canon Set up I don't recall the aperture altering...
 
So are all macro lens like this? As when I use to have my Canon Set up I don't recall the aperture altering...

The f/number is only correct at infinity focus, and it rises as the lens is focused closer. The change is barely measurable at normal range, but when you get really close as with macro, it begins to rise dramatically. At 1:1 image size, it will have risen exactly two stops; Nikons report this correctly, Canons don't, though TTL metering automatically compensates.

So at 1:1, an f/2.8 lens should be reading f/5.6, but from memory I think the Nikon 105/2.8 reads f/4.8 or something? This is because the internal focusing of the lens also reduces the effective focal length at very close range, so what you have (rough estimates) is something like a 90mm f/2.4 lens at 1:1, that then reads f/4.8 - if you follow!
 
What aperture are people suppose to use for macro then pls just a quick pointer... I only tend to use the 2.8 for portraits..

Checking some of mine shows anywhere between f10-f20.
 
What aperture are people suppose to use for macro then pls just a quick pointer... I only tend to use the 2.8 for portraits..

There's no single answer to that! If you want to isolate a tiny portion in sharp focus, stay wide open but if you want a bit more of the subject in the area of acceptable sharpness, stop down. If you want/need the whole subject to be sharp (assuming a 3 dimensional subject like an insect) you'll probably need to do some focus stacking - good luck and have fun!!!
 
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