Olympus OM-D E-M5, E-M1, E-M10 - Mk1, Mk2 & Mk3 Owners Thread

the black fox said:
the firmware update on the omd1-mkii mid 2019 turned it into a totally different beast . but you now have the mkiii and the 1.MiX as well
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How did the FW improve it? I currently have the Sony A7Riii and the 24-105 f4 and 70-200f4 and i am getting bothered with the weight etc carrying it all around...
 
Seem to have an issue with my E-M5iii. Screen or EVF is flicking between blank and image through lens. When it's blank, camera appears to be frozen, can't change settings. I think it's a lens comms issue as it seems to be affected by if and where you apply some pressure to the lens mount. Happens on all of my lenses. Anybody seen this before? Camera is obviously still under warranty, bought from LCE. Am I likely to be able to return it to LCE to sort (it's about 4 months old) or will this be direct to Olympus?

Having one of those weeks where one thing after another seems to break.
 
gad-westy said:
Seem to have an issue with my E-M5iii. Screen or EVF is flicking between blank and image through lens. When it's blank, camera appears to be frozen, can't change settings. I think it's a lens comms issue as it seems to be affected by if and where you apply some pressure to the lens mount. Happens on all of my lenses. Anybody seen this before? Camera is obviously still under warranty, bought from LCE. Am I likely to be able to return it to LCE to sort (it's about 4 months old) or will this be direct to Olympus?

Having one of those weeks where one thing after another seems to break.
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Is the aperture value dissapearing?
 
alfbranch said:
Is the aperture value dissapearing?
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Yep. Shutter speed still there though don't think it can be changed.

Funnily enough, right now it seems fine. But just got back from the coast where I'd gone with the soul intent on taking images and I could barely get it working at all. It's definitely something to do with lens contact as I can get it to kick in and out by applying a little pressure on the lens.
 
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gad-westy said:
Yep. Shutter speed still there though don't think it can be changed.

Funnily enough, right now it seems fine. But just got back from the coast where I'd gone with the soul intent on taking images and I could barely get it working at all. It's definitely something to do with lens contact as I can get it to kick in and out by applying a little pressure on the lens.
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Try a different lens
Also clean the contacts
 
alfbranch said:
Try a different lens
Also clean the contacts
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It's all my lenses :(

Have tried cleaning with alcohol. No joy. It's stopped working again now.

I read something about people having similar issues with older olympus models. Something to do with the lens release pin microswitch. Basically, the screen is behaving as if the release switch is pressed in. Sometimes all the time, sometimes intermittently. Sometimes not at all. Bugger
 
Back to Olympus in Portugal usually about 10 turnaround
 
Hi Rob

Very nice and especially the crop :)

Was this handheld or tripod?
 
jakeblu said:
My latest attempt at a BiF a slight improvement, close but no cigar :(

gull-fly by Steve Vickers, on Flickr
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.... As a BiF shot I think it is a very good capture indeed and I would have been very happy to get one like that.

The only feedback I would give is whether it would benefit from a bit more colour saturation? It's not quite as clean as it might be but actually if you view it as a style, then it's very nice - It grows and is slightly painterly.

jakeblu said:
This was sat here for over 5 mins, it was genuinely like she was watching the sunset.
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.... Your observations will confirm that Blackbirds and Robins sing earlier and later in the day than other birds < Before sunrise and after sunset. They are claiming their territory and telling others to "Eff off!! I saw her first!" :D
 
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gad-westy said:
It's all my lenses :(

Have tried cleaning with alcohol. No joy. It's stopped working again now.

I read something about people having similar issues with older olympus models. Something to do with the lens release pin microswitch. Basically, the screen is behaving as if the release switch is pressed in. Sometimes all the time, sometimes intermittently. Sometimes not at all. Bugger
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I had a similar problem with an EM10.2 the camera would occasionally lose contact with the lens, usually switching it off and then back on or removing the lens and refitting solved the issue. I just lived with it for a while, but I was given the camera free of charge by a member on here when I was down on my luck and needed to sell my EM1.2 last year. Of course yours is brand new so you need to send it back for a repair or replacement.
 
my 60mm macro is now for sale ,link to e.bay in the for sale section
 
the black fox said:
my 60mm macro is now for sale ,link to e.bay in the for sale section
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.... Ooops! I was literally about to offer mine for sale on TP too but don't want to compete with you Jeff as we are friends. I'll wait and follow after your sale.
 
Just a thought over the weekend and I'd like your take on it please. Now before I begin, please don't let this descend into a Micro Four Thirds vs other formats war. The point of this post is to STOP me spending any more money during the bloody lockdown :p:p

I think it's generally assumed that the best of Micro Four Thirds (say the EM1-X or the EM1 MK II(III) bodies), with reference to high ISO performance are about 2/3 to a stop (at the very most) behind the best of APS-C (say Nikon D500, Fuji X-T series etc). And that it is also generally accepted that it's 1¾-2 stops behind the current best of FF (say Sony, Nikon etc 24MP MILC's or DSLR's).

If we agree on the above (which seems reasonable to me given the physical size disadvantage of the M4/3 sensor), then if (like me) you like to do bird and wildlife photography, and don't have £8k-10K to blow on exocit prime lenses, then to get to approx 600mm on each format is my math right on the below ?

Let's ignore the difference in DOF etc for the basis of the below please.

Olympus EM1-MKII with 300mm F4 Pro (600mm equivalent) = Base point

Nikon D500 with 300mm F4 + 1.4X TC (630mm Equivalent) = 1 stop slower @ F5.6 therefore high ISO on both should be approx the same (upto say 6400 ISO)

Sony A7 III or Nikon Z6 with 150-600 F5-6.3 (600mm) = 1 1/3 stop slower therefore High ISO would be at best approx 2/3 stop better

I've just selected what I believe to be the best (and most cost effective) body / lens combo in each category to get to the magical 600mm. As I say, these are generalistic give or take ½ stop either way, My point (to myself to cure some GAS I have about either getting a D500 or a 600mm Lens for my Z outfit), is that for a fairly significant outlay of over £1000, on either a D500 body, or a Tamron / Sigma 150-600 zoom (which should also theoretically be inferior optically to the Olympus prime), at best I'd get about 2/3 to a stop of high ISO advantage on the FF lens, and very little (if any) on APS-C.

Yes I know that AF performance etc will be better on bigger formats, and that (as mentioned) that there are faster versions of the lenses I've quoted, but I'm just trying to normalize the budgets. Basically my rationale is that unless I can spring for F4 super telephotos (which I can't) for the FF system, then M4/3 only =gives up a stop at best at the higher ISO's.

Have I missed anything ?
 
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For me, one key factor was the weight of the gear.

No one format has all 'the cards' as to what is best/better when you include ~ will you carry it & will you use it, plus can you afford the longer lenses of suitable optical quality to equivalent of FF and APS-C formats.

mFT worked for me and I am happy to mitigate for noise at higher ISO. Having said that I still have my canon FF and 24-105mm but it has sat unused for a good while....really need to decide about selling it!
 
your forgetting the PL-100-400 Andrew o.k its f6.3 but its light ,MFT fit , fast to focus ,good close focus ability and reasonably priced .. o.k so its f6.3 at base but in all honesty with todays Ai p.p methods does a higher i.s.o = noise matter THAT much ..
I also looked at and tried the Sony A9 + big zoom lens but although good ,weight is the deciding factor especially with a dodgy ticker plus price a hell of a lot more that MFT gear
 
Sootchucker said:
Just a thought over the weekend and I'd like your take on it please. Now before I begin, please don't let this descend into a Micro Four Thirds vs other formats war. The point of this post is to STOP me spending any more money during the bloody lockdown :p:p

I think it's generally assumed that the best of Micro Four Thirds (say the EM1-X or the EM1 MK II(III) bodies), with reference to high ISO performance are about 2/3 to a stop (at the very most) behind the best of APS-C (say Nikon D500, Fuji X-T series etc). And that it is also generally accepted that it's 1¾-2 stops behind the current best of FF (say Sony, Nikon etc 24MP MILC's or DSLR's).

If we agree on the above (which seems reasonable to me given the physical size disadvantage of the M4/3 sensor), then if (like me) you like to do bird and wildlife photography, and don't have £8k-10K to blow on exocit prime lenses, then to get to approx 600mm on each format is my math right on the below ?

Let's ignore the difference in DOF etc for the basis of the below please.

Olympus EM1-MKII with 300mm F4 Pro (600mm equivalent) = Base point

Nikon D500 with 300mm F4 + 1.4X TC (630mm Equivalent) = 1 stop slower @ F5.6 therefore high ISO on both should be approx the same (upto say 6400 ISO)

Sony A7 III or Nikon Z6 with 150-600 F5-6.3 (600mm) = 1 1/3 stop slower therefore High ISO would be at best approx 2/3 stop better

I've just selected what I believe to be the best (and most cost effective) body / lens combo in each category to get to the magical 600mm. As I say, these are generalistic give or take ½ stop either way, My point (to myself to cure some GAS I have about either getting a D500 or a 600mm Lens for my Z outfit), is that for a fairly significant outlay of over £1000, on either a D500 body, or a Tamron / Sigma 150-600 zoom (which should also theoretically be inferior optically to the Olympus prime), at best I'd get about 2/3 to a stop of high ISO advantage on the FF lens, and very little (if any) on APS-C.

Yes I know that AF performance etc will be better on bigger formats, and that (as mentioned) that there are faster versions of the lenses I've quoted, but I'm just trying to normalize the budgets. Basically my rationale is that unless I can spring for F4 super telephotos (which I can't) for the FF system, then M4/3 only =gives up a stop at best at the higher ISO's.

Have I missed anything ?
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.... My approach is quite different to yours in that I simply don't bother analysing the maths on F-stops etc. I came to Olympus from a high end Canon system including 1DX-2 and EOS-R plus L lenses including the EF 500mm F/4L II and have owned 70D, 7D-2, 5D-4, and M5. Yes, there are differences in the nuances of what the sensors capture but I don't see it as a case of one format being 'better' than the other because you work with and exploit whatever camera you've got in your hand - There is no such thing as the perfect camera (or perfect lens!).

It's a fact that DoF is deeper on m4/3 than FF and some see that as a bokeh disadvantage but it can also be an advantage - For example, in macro photography - It simply depends on what subjects you shoot and your preferences.

As I photograph wildlife I have always gone out with two bodies, or rather two lenses at the ready each with a control module body. With the Olympus Pro system I don't have to leave any lenses behind and it doesn't matter what the weather throws at me and that includes wind, rain and sand! But what suits me may not suit you.

Bottom line is that I always recommend choosing what FEELS right in your hands - A camera is a tactile extension of you and what you strive to express - Forget the maths etc when at the pro level standard of camera gear.

However :

All The Gear I Need.jpg
 
Haha...yes you are right of course Robin (and Jeff). I think It's because I'm bored with the lockdown :D

It was one of those things that just spiralled down out of control. 1st I was using my Nikon Z7 (and a lovely camera it is indeed), but the longest lens i have for it is my Nikon 300mm F4 PF with the TC-14EIII converter. So that gives me 420mm on FF or 630mm if I use the DX crop (approx 20mp).

It then got my brain thinking, "ooh, should I just get a FF 600mm lens fo the Z7 so I don't have to crop" Started looking at the Tamron and Sigma 150-600 lenses, and then thought, "wait a minute, I have this great "psuedo 630mm F5.6 lens combination already if I shoot on a DX crop body". That got me thinking about a D500 (and the much superior AF system that it has.

Then eventually I thought, whoo...hold on, I have been really happy with the Olympus bodies with the 300mm F4 (which is so good I will never sell it), and I already have them without having to buy anything !. So in doing my own rationale I started to look at what advantage (if any) APS-C or FF would even offer me (for my style of shooting and subject), and I came to the above conclusions.

Therefore I would need to spend serious money to get something similar to the focal length on the Olympus combo for either APS-C or FF, but it would again be much larger and heavier which means I probably wouldn't want to carry it around with me. It all lead me back to the Olympus system.

Like I said, too much time to think at the moment :D:D

Tell you what though, even thought I know I won't be able to afford it, I'd love to get my hands on the new Olympus 150-600 F4.5 lens due to be launched this autumn, if only for a try out. Knowing Olympus optically it will be a stunning 800mm lens.
 
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