and please use their services
Panorama
- Thread starter Kryptix
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- Bill
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If you have windows Vista try this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OWQ-qjNyi6w
The latest version on windows photo gallery can be downloaded here http://download.live.com/photogaller
Of course you will need to use a tripod that is level and I overlap my pano's by about 20%. Hope that gets you started.
Keep the shutter and exposure setting the same if possible.
The latest version on windows photo gallery can be downloaded here http://download.live.com/photogaller
Of course you will need to use a tripod that is level and I overlap my pano's by about 20%. Hope that gets you started.
Keep the shutter and exposure setting the same if possible.
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There's a tool called Microsoft ICE which does an alright job.
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- wayne clarke
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I'd overlap by more like a third, set your camera on manual exposure and white ballance and focus (to keep it the same between shots) as said level your tripod carefully, a pano head helps and don't use a really wide angle lens, this adds distortion and make things more difficult to align. Wayne
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- Dominic
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when you say no wide angle whats the lowest focal length would you recommend?
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- wayne clarke
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It used to be 35mm on a film camera (recomended max wide) so on a crop frame sensor I'd guess about 24mm-ish. Wayne
I tend to use Hugin to stitch my panoramas, http://hugin.sourceforge.net
Hugin probably isn't the easiest panorama software to use but it gives good results.
The widest lens I've succesfully used is my sigma 10-20mm lens @ 10mm, 14 pics in portrait mode.
The main thing is to get a decent overlap between the images, try and keep the camera level (either using a tripod or a hotshoe spirit level, preferably both).
Also try and put the camera in manual exposure to make sure each image has a consistent exposure.
I'm not familiar with other panoramic software, but Hugin uses what it calls "control points" to align the images - I try and take my images so that there are good features which can be used to align, e.g. that power pylon in the distance, the corner of that field, or a window on a building for example. Try not to use sheep, clouds or people etc as these tend to move between images!
I find it also helps to use the camera in portrait mode as this gives a slightly "taller" panorama.
Hugin probably isn't the easiest panorama software to use but it gives good results.
The widest lens I've succesfully used is my sigma 10-20mm lens @ 10mm, 14 pics in portrait mode.
The main thing is to get a decent overlap between the images, try and keep the camera level (either using a tripod or a hotshoe spirit level, preferably both).
Also try and put the camera in manual exposure to make sure each image has a consistent exposure.
I'm not familiar with other panoramic software, but Hugin uses what it calls "control points" to align the images - I try and take my images so that there are good features which can be used to align, e.g. that power pylon in the distance, the corner of that field, or a window on a building for example. Try not to use sheep, clouds or people etc as these tend to move between images!
I find it also helps to use the camera in portrait mode as this gives a slightly "taller" panorama.
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- Guy Cope
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And if you want to get even more technical then you can calibrate the Nodal point of your lens/focal length. That'll help with vertical objects appearing as such.
http://www.hugha.co.uk/NodalPoint/Index.htm
http://services.manfrotto.com/303SPH/?cnt=howto
http://www.hugha.co.uk/NodalPoint/Index.htm
http://services.manfrotto.com/303SPH/?cnt=howto
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cheers wayne