Pentax ME shot counter stuck at 36...

ChrisR

ChrisR

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I got my Pentax ME serviced by the Asahi Photo people last year, and I've used it a few times since then. It's not one of my primary cameras, as it's annoying to have the metering info on the left of the viewfinder when the others have it on the right. But when (as now) another camera goes off for servicing, it get's pressed into use. However, this time when I loaded a new film I was surprised that the shot counter was stuck at 36. It wobbles a bit when I wind on, then sits back at 36 after each shot. I've a feeling this is not a serious issue, probably a catch that didn't quite work when the back was opened. Anyone seen this behaviour and have any suggestions?

(I thought of opening the back in a dark bag, but if that works I'm just going to have a shot counter with the wrong shot count, which might be even more confusing!)
 
In my 45+ years of film photography I have never looked at a frame counter. The film is finished when I can no longer wind on. I have a fair idea of how many shots I have taken and generally have another roll or two of film in my pocket if needed.
 
You could try opening the back and removing the film, The counter is linked to the button you press to rewind the film, and the sprocket, sometimes turning the sprocket untill it clicks (by hand or winding on) should pop the button back out and reset the counter.
As a last resort stick a bit of paper tape on the camera and put an X for each shot if you need to keep count.
 
The frame counter is not connected to the rewind button. It is reset by opening the back. Around the edge of the back is a flange that fits into a groove on the body. This flange has a small addition at the top on the right - when the back is closed, this presses on a small button in the groove. With this small button pressed in the frame counter counts. When the button is released by opening the back, the frame counter is reset to zero.

The usual reasons for this malfunctioning is the foam light seal in the groove deteriorating to a sticky mess which then holds the small button in when the back is opened. Thorough cleaning of the groove with naphtha will sort this.

The second most usual reason for failure is someone replacing the foam light seal and putting the new seal over the button, holding it permanently in - the new light seal needs a slight gap where the button is.
 
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Thanks folks. I think the best course of action is to wait for the film to end, and then inspect the back for clues as John suggested. It was recently CLA'd by folk who know what they're doing, so I might also get in touch with them and ask.
 
john.margetts said:
The frame counter is not connected to the rewind button. It is reset by opening the back. Around the edge of the back is a flange that fits into a groove on the body. This flange has a small addition at the top on the right - when the back is closed, this presses on a small button in the groove. With this small button pressed in the frame counter counts. When the button is released by opening the back, the frame counter is reset to zero.

The usual reasons for this malfunctioning is the foam light seal in the groove deteriorating to a sticky mess which then holds the small button in when the back is opened. Thorough cleaning of the groove with naphtha will sort this.

The second most usual reason for failure is someone replacing the foam light seal and putting the new seal over the button, holding it permanently in - the new light seal needs a slight gap where the button is.
Click to expand...

OK, I've finally managed to get a good look at the back with no film in. I can see the protuberance on the flange, and the place it goes into. When I open the back, the frame counter resets to 28 rather than zero. When I close the back the frame counter updates when I wind on... but it can only go to 36, after which it wobbles then settles back to 36.

The new seal is not over the gap where the button is. Annoyingly, I have now removed a small section of good seal, as I had convinced myself the gap was in the wrong place.

Overall, it rather looks as if the part of the mechanism internally that resets the counter is slightly faulty (resetting to 28 rather than zero). Unfortunately, this would probably cost £80 plus to fix, so I may have to learn to live with it. I guess I could open and close the back in a dark bag each time it gets to 36... but it's probably best to default to @john.margetts solution!
 
You could try jiggling that reset button with a cocktail stick which might get things moving correctly again. A tiny droplet of WD40 or similar might also degum the side of the button IF the problem's been caused by a smidgen of glue from the new light seal (easy to get the replacement a tiny bit off - don't ask how I know, you can probably guess!)
 
I'd try a tiny squirt of cigarette lighter fuel on the button which is in the channel where the foam is. I'd never put WD40 anywhere near a camera; it dries to a sticky film. Anyone who drove a Mini in the 70s will remember spraying it on the distributor cap, in an attempt to keep the water out and avoid misfiring.
 
NickT said:
I'd try a tiny squirt of cigarette lighter fuel on the button which is in the channel where the foam is. I'd never put WD40 anywhere near a camera; it dries to a sticky film. Anyone who drove a Mini in the 70s will remember spraying it on the distributor cap, in an attempt to keep the water out and avoid misfiring.
Click to expand...

Definitely this - never put WD40 near a camera! If you need to use any oil use a very light sewing machine oil but the best advice is to use a tiny amount of lighter fluid (swan petrol lighter fluid not the butane gas!) - this removes 'gummed up' oil which causes things to stick.
 
ChrisR said:
Like this? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125ml-OR...263339?hash=item263757e0eb:g:-IcAAOSwJ8BcpZA-
Click to expand...

Yes, but don't spend too much money on it. Poundland sold it when they were open. Any old Swan/Ronson/Bull/No brand will do, it's just napthalene. I use more off it now than when I used to smoke. It's good for cleaning smartphone screens and cleaning up parts of gummed up delicate mechanisms that someone has tried to ;lubricate' with WD40. The tall guy in Wheeler Dealers keeps calling WD40 'penetrating fluid' - It's not!. Plus Gas was the only penetrating oil that I used, sometimes it worked but usually not.
 
Poundland are open as they also sell food....went there the other day.
 
NickT said:
Yes, but don't spend too much money on it. Poundland sold it when they were open. Any old Swan/Ronson/Bull/No brand will do, it's just napthalene. I use more off it now than when I used to smoke. It's good for cleaning smartphone screens and cleaning up parts of gummed up delicate mechanisms that someone has tried to ;lubricate' with WD40. The tall guy in Wheeler Dealers keeps calling WD40 'penetrating fluid' - It's not!. Plus Gas was the only penetrating oil that I used, sometimes it worked but usually not.
Click to expand...

Nick - don't use alcohol on smartphone screens or any alcohol based wipe!

The screens are coated to reduce fingerprints and using alcohol removes this coating so the screens smudge more - just use soap & water for a phone screen.
 
DK602 said:
Nick - don't use alcohol on smartphone screens or any alcohol based wipe!

The screens are coated to reduce fingerprints and using alcohol removes this coating so the screens smudge more - just use soap & water for a phone screen.
Click to expand...
Well mine isn't and there's no alcohol in lighter fuel, it's napthalene.
 
Well, after an age I found some lighter fuel, and after an even longer age I tried it out. It's not easy to use! I didn't want to risk a disaster by puring it straight into the camera, so I tipped a bit out onto an old body cap, and tried putting drops into the camera with a toothpick... but this stuff is very thin, nearly invisible and evaporates away in no time. Only afterwards did I worry about the fire risk with a lighter ful and air mix...

Long story slightly shorter, it does seem to have worked. Counter now resets to zero (well, minus 2, really) when the back opens. Let's hope it stays working, too, but at least I have a clue what to do now. Thanks all very much.
 
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