RAYNOX DCR-250
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It clips on the end of your lens and away you go.
OP
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I'm guessing once its on bye bye autofocus?
Raynox DCR-250 is brilliant for £40. Will work fine on your kit lens at 50mm and above. Have a look at this lot http://www.flickr.com/groups/raynoxdcr250/
It will autofocus, it doesn't affect AF, but you don't want to use it. With very close shooting like that, it is easier to focus up roughly by hand, then rock you body back and forth very gently and watch the focus move across the subject.
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I'm guessing once its on bye bye autofocus?
Nope as mentioned you will just need to move in closer to the subject- I used it on my 50mm prime and need to get between 10-20cm to the subject. Found it harder to focus on my kit lens though.
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Never found one on the high street. I asked about them in jessops and jacobs and they both said that they found raynox stuff too obscure to stock, it would sit on the shelf for months so they never re-stocked any raynox stuff.
However, the DCR-250 and 150 are proving ever more popular, so I wouldn't be surprised if they start selling them again soon.
AF does still work with the raynox on, but it's pretty much useless. The best focus tactic is to simply move the camera closer and closer until you get the focus right.
However, the DCR-250 and 150 are proving ever more popular, so I wouldn't be surprised if they start selling them again soon.
AF does still work with the raynox on, but it's pretty much useless. The best focus tactic is to simply move the camera closer and closer until you get the focus right.
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I think High Street retail has missed the boat with Raynox, as it seems to have done with other products like Yongnuo flash guns and triggers which are also only available on line.
The problem is that once they've gone through conventional distribution, marketing and retail channels, the price would pretty much double and they wouldn't sell.
Meanwhile, fill yer boots on Amazon
The problem is that once they've gone through conventional distribution, marketing and retail channels, the price would pretty much double and they wouldn't sell.
Meanwhile, fill yer boots on Amazon
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Yes, universal fit. They come with a spring-loaded adapter that clips on to any lens with 52-67mm filter thread, though if you prefer you can unscrew the lens and fit a stepping ring for your lens specifically, for about a fiver http://raynox.co.jp/english/dcr/dcr250/indexdcr250eg.htm
The only decision to make is between the DCR-250, which is very strong (bugs and beetles) and the less powerful DCR-150 which is better for flowers and butterflies etc.
The reason the Raynox works so well is, apart from being really small and easy to use, is because the optical shortcomings are never exposed in most macro work. That is, with most macro, the subject in around the middle and the edges are blurred through very shallow depth of field anyway, plus in order to get as much depth of field as you reasonable can, you tend to have to use higher f/numbers where they are optically at they're best.
So basically, that's why you get such great looking results for a tenth of the cost of a pukka macro lens. If you want to shoot critcal 2D subjects like coins or stamps though, at low f/numbers, that's when you need the real thing.
Raynox works with any lens from about 50mm upwards - they vignette below that, ie they intrude into the corners of the image. Best lens is usually about 100-200mm, especially with the DCR-250, because it gives you more working distance to the subject. Just a couple more inches makes life easier. There's a quite a lot of flexibility in framing and positioning with a zoom like that too
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Amazon or Ebay. But keep a look out on the classifed sections here, as they come up regularly.
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I would look into replacing the clip on adaptor that comes with it with a metal step up ring in the right size for your lens. The clip on adaptor as very hard to centre properly and mind has popped off my lens a few times.
The thread on the actual lens is 43mm
The thread on the actual lens is 43mm
odd jim
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I think High Street retail has missed the boat with Raynox, as it seems to have done with other products like Yongnuo flash guns and triggers which are also only available on line.
The problem is that once they've gone through conventional distribution, marketing and retail channels, the price would pretty much double and they wouldn't sell.
Meanwhile, fill yer boots on Amazon
Ordered, and the price dropped by £2 overnight!
odd jim
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I'm new to Macro as well but my understanding is roughly this;
With the Raynox (end of lens attachment) its best to use full manual mode with the aperture wide open. Focus is best achieved by moving the camera rather than the focus ring (with the focus set to closest).
However, with a dedicated Macro lens you can leave most of the work down to the lens itself as thats what its primary use is.
My Raynox was dispatched today, will post some pics up when I get it!
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Macro is not easy! That's the first thing to know.
The Raynox is a supplementary close up lens, though a very strong one and very high quality as these things go - it's three glass elements (some are only one) but don't expect miracles. It just allows your normal lens to focus much closer.
How close you can go depends on the mother lens, and the focal length set. Have a play with it and you'll soon find out the range you've got. Main thing to note is you get a bit more working distance between the lens and the subject with longer focal length settings.
If you're unfamiliar with macro, prepare to be surprised at how little depth of field you'll get - like a few mms at best. You will never get everything in sharp focus, so pick your spot carefully, by moving your body back and forth, as mentioned above. The shallow DoF is because of the high magnification - it's the same with a Raynox or any other lens or attachment applied in this way.
Because of the shallow DoF you will usually need to use a high f/number to get as much of it as you can. You still won't get much! Raising the f/number also improves optical quality, particularly around the edges.
The high f/number, combined with the magnification which also increases the risk of camera shake (normal hand-holding rule doesn't apply in the usual way) means you also need high shutter speeds. And that's not easy except in very good light, plus you will usually be shading the subject with your own body/camera. IS doesn't work so well at very close range, but use it anyway. Bump up the ISO.
It all works against you, which is why flash is a popular solution, preferably ring-flash because you're usually so close there's no room for a normal gun. You just have to find the best workaround.
The higher the magnification, the harder everything gets. Macro is a whole new world in more ways than one. Told you it wasn't easy
odd jim
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HoppyUK said:Macro is not easy! That's the first thing to know.
The Raynox is a supplementary close up lens, though a very strong one and very high quality as these things go - it's three glass elements (some are only one) but don't expect miracles. It just allows your normal lens to focus much closer.
How close you can go depends on the mother lens, and the focal length set. Have a play with it and you'll soon find out the range you've got. Main thing to note is you get a bit more working distance between the lens and the subject with longer focal length settings.
If you're unfamiliar with macro, prepare to be surprised at how little depth of field you'll get - like a few mms at best. You will never get everything in sharp focus, so pick your spot carefully, by moving your body back and forth, as mentioned above. The shallow DoF is because of the high magnification - it's the same with a Raynox or any other lens or attachment applied in this way.
Because of the shallow DoF you will usually need to use a high f/number to get as much of it as you can. You still won't get much! Raising the f/number also improves optical quality, particularly around the edges.
The high f/number, combined with the magnification which also increases the risk of camera shake (normal hand-holding rule doesn't apply in the usual way) means you also need high shutter speeds. And that's not easy except in very good light, plus you will usually be shading the subject with your own body/camera. IS doesn't work so well at very close range, but use it anyway. Bump up the ISO.
It all works against you, which is why flash is a popular solution, preferably ring-flash because you're usually so close there's no room for a normal gun. You just have to find the best workaround.
The higher the magnification, the harder everything gets. Macro is a whole new world in more ways than one. Told you it wasn't easy
Looks like I've got a steep learning curve ahead of me!
Nice guide!
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Haha! Wouldn't be fun if it was easy
But don't make too much of the problems. Just be aware of them and work around them as best you can. Maybe start by shooting in good light and don't try to go too close.
The Flickr link I posted above has 18,000 examples of great results with the Raynox. Can't be that hard!
odd jim
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My Raynox arrived today, and you guys wern't kidding, this macro malarky is hard! I'm used to using a shallow depth of field but this is something else!
Anyhoo, here's a few first attempts just roaming around my garden;
1
2
3
4
5 - reflections in the eye!
6
Its very hard to nail the focus but I'm getting there!
Anyhoo, here's a few first attempts just roaming around my garden;
1
2
3
4
5 - reflections in the eye!
6
Its very hard to nail the focus but I'm getting there!
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I'm missing images 1, 2 and 4, but that's not bad for your first session
You've obviously got a feel for both the problems and the potential, but still pretty amazing for 40 quid!Maybe try one of those little LED macro lights? Never used one myself but they also get good rep for not much money.
Edit: or I bought a little round magnetic LED jobbie from B&Q for a fiver - bright white light. Couple of those with a bit of DIY (ie gaffa tape and a coat hanger) should get you hand-holdable speeds at a nice high f/number. I just tried it at macro distance and I'm getting 1/100sec at f/16 ISO800, so two or three would get you up to 1/250-ish f/11-16 which is worth a punt.
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