Seals on Farne Islands, Northumberland.
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Gandhi said:
I took a few shots from the boat at about 15 metres range using centre meter for the exposure. They seemed to over expose on the histogram so I went to spot meter and had the same problem. Whilst some of the fur is very dark, the bits that are wet end up being really bright. In the end I spot metered and under exposed by about 2 stops. A bit of a tester for me really as I was pushed for time as the boat was constantly on the move which gave me little time to check the shots.
Any advice on how to approach such a tricky subject in terms of extremes of reflected light from the surface?
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You'll just have to accept the fact that in shots with high contrast and dynamic range that you may end up with a few blown highlights, if they're only a small area it doesn't look too bad, such as sunlight reflecting on water.
The meters in cameras work by trying to make everything an average, 18% grey or there abouts. therefore shadows get lighter and highlights greyer. Take a shot of a piece of black paper and a piece of white paper using evaluative/matrix metering and see what happens....this why the shots kept coming out over exposed, the camera was tying to lighten the dark tones.
The only way to cope is to try and stop the highlights from blowing, as you've done here, but you then need to lighten the image afterwards.......
hope that helps and wasn't patronising (as I've just been accused of being by my g/f!)
The meters in cameras work by trying to make everything an average, 18% grey or there abouts. therefore shadows get lighter and highlights greyer. Take a shot of a piece of black paper and a piece of white paper using evaluative/matrix metering and see what happens....this why the shots kept coming out over exposed, the camera was tying to lighten the dark tones.
The only way to cope is to try and stop the highlights from blowing, as you've done here, but you then need to lighten the image afterwards.......
hope that helps and wasn't patronising (as I've just been accused of being by my g/f!)
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http://epaperpress.com/monitorcal/index.html
http://www.drycreekphoto.com/Learn/profiles.htm
http://www.computer-darkroom.com/home.htm
If your monitors are the same brand/model you may be able to just profile one and then copy it across to the other.
I can't find the link but microsoft have a very good little colour management app now thats very good for managing your profiles and dual screen set-ups.
For the actual calibration itself Adobe gamma, that comes with photoshop is good for a non-hardware based solution, so is the utility that comes with the nvidia graphics drivers. Just use one or the other, not both!
Have a google for monitor calibration, there is a ton of stuff out there about it, and there were some good threads on here if you search the forum!
http://www.drycreekphoto.com/Learn/profiles.htm
http://www.computer-darkroom.com/home.htm
If your monitors are the same brand/model you may be able to just profile one and then copy it across to the other.
I can't find the link but microsoft have a very good little colour management app now thats very good for managing your profiles and dual screen set-ups.
For the actual calibration itself Adobe gamma, that comes with photoshop is good for a non-hardware based solution, so is the utility that comes with the nvidia graphics drivers. Just use one or the other, not both!
Have a google for monitor calibration, there is a ton of stuff out there about it, and there were some good threads on here if you search the forum!