shooting with grain

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18,182
Name
Geof
Edit My Images
Yes
hoping to get better at this...and still get detail in the pores

 
Hi Geoffrey

The grain in your shot looks like the digital monochromatic noise type – as in photoshop/filter/noise/add noise.
If you are after a more traditional film grain look then try adding a film grain layer in PS and experiment with blending mode. If you need more details then give me a shout.

Sam-D
 
Hi Geoffrey

The grain in your shot looks like the digital monochromatic noise type – as in photoshop/filter/noise/add noise.
If you are after a more traditional film grain look then try adding a film grain layer in PS and experiment with blending mode. If you need more details then give me a shout.

Sam-D

yes..let me know the technique..i have ps 2

this was done with silver efex pro...grain slider:geek:
 
I can see what you're trying to achieve...just not quite sure why?

Grain was an unwanted by-product of the recording medium - film. We did everything we could to eliminate it: slower emulsions, fine-grain developers, extending dev times with over-diluted solutions, 'pulling' the film, etc...

If you want a grainy photo, why not just shoot it on Tri-X @ 800asa and be done with it?
 
yes..let me know the technique..i have ps 2

this was done with silver efex pro...grain slider:geek:

Hi Geoffrey

It’s always a little difficult explaining a PP procedure when not knowing how familiar the reader is with the particular software, so I will assume that you’re familiar with photoshop and things like layers and blending modes etc. However, if you need more information than I have given here then please let me know.

The ‘grain’ image opens in portrait orientation, so rotate it for landscape orientation if needed. My usual procedure then is to add the film grain onto a new layer sitting above the main image layer. With your grain layer active, select a blending mode such as ‘Overlay’ or ‘Linear Light’ and then use the layer ‘Obacity’ slider to set the amount of grain required. Apart from experimenting with different blending modes and opacity, you can also sharpen the grain layer, or increase or decrease the grain size with the ‘Scale’ control. If you want a lot of grain in some areas, but less in others then just use a mask on the grain layer.

My grain file, which incidentally is an image of actual film grain, is rather large, so I have reduced it down to a more email friendly 5mb jpg for you. If you PM me your email address I will send it over to you.

Cheers
Sam-D
 
I can see what you're trying to achieve...just not quite sure why?

Grain was an unwanted by-product of the recording medium - film. We did everything we could to eliminate it: slower emulsions, fine-grain developers, extending dev times with over-diluted solutions, 'pulling' the film, etc...

If you want a grainy photo, why not just shoot it on Tri-X @ 800asa and be done with it?

i dont use a film camera anymore...and what is the harm in using grain to some effect as a post processing medium...but i agree when i used black to white film i invariably went for ilfords fp3 and used some fine grain developer and got excellent fine grain results...not wanting to have grain at all

disregard my silly inventions old chap
blessings
geof;)
 
Sorry Geoff, I thought you still had a film body.
Pay no heed to me in that case...lol
 
I can see what you're trying to achieve...just not quite sure why?

Grain was an unwanted by-product of the recording medium - film. We did everything we could to eliminate it: slower emulsions, fine-grain developers, extending dev times with over-diluted solutions, 'pulling' the film, etc...

If you want a grainy photo, why not just shoot it on Tri-X @ 800asa and be done with it?

Hi Rob

‘Horses for courses’ and ‘One man's gravy is another man's poison’ springs to mind here.

We all know that photographers and photographic goals can be worlds apart. However, yes I agree that grain can be regarded as an unwanted by-product, particularly in scientific, architectural and medical photography, but deliberate use of things like soft focus, halation, motion blur and graininess can be most effective means of symbolizing intangible messages and subject qualities.

Previously you indicated that you are a fan of Andreas Feininger’s work – Likewise me too – He was not just one of the all-time great photographers, but a terrific tutor as well and often spoke about the virtues of grain and its use as a creative photographic ingredient.

Sam-D
 
yes..let me know the technique..i have ps 2

this was done with silver efex pro...grain slider:geek:

If you are using SEP, then have a look in the film types section above the grain slider. There are a few "Pre-Brewed" combinations of grain size and level, which aren't awfully far from the actual film names they've been given. So - you could just plump for Rob's Tri-X (albeit at 400iso), and just up the grain size and hardness a little.
 
If you are using SEP, then have a look in the film types section above the grain slider. There are a few "Pre-Brewed" combinations of grain size and level, which aren't awfully far from the actual film names they've been given. So - you could just plump for Rob's Tri-X (albeit at 400iso), and just up the grain size and hardness a little.

:thinking: boing!!!:wacky:
dohhhh

i am using the film types and never really got the message about the fast speed settings..dohhh
will use that in future and then apply the grain controls
glad you pointed that out
cheers to you and rob
 
I find it pretty useful, as an initial setting, because I'm one of those luddites that still shoot film, and when I'm looking for a particular effect from a digital shot I still think "Well - I wish i'd have shot that one on HP5+" or "that'd have looked great on Acros 100" so I'm sort of half-way there to be honest :)
 
I find it pretty useful, as an initial setting, because I'm one of those luddites that still shoot film, and when I'm looking for a particular effect from a digital shot I still think "Well - I wish i'd have shot that one on HP5+" or "that'd have looked great on Acros 100" so I'm sort of half-way there to be honest :)

you da man!!

i never got far with black to white film and took most shots on transparencies
usually fuji pro 100..at the end
i am familiar with tri-x though and thought that was a bit grainy if i remember correctly
the SEP choices i have now tried with a colour landscape and apart from any grain induced also tends to really crank on the contrast
cheers
geof
 
I find it pretty useful, as an initial setting, because I'm one of those luddites that still shoot film, and when I'm looking for a particular effect from a digital shot I still think "Well - I wish i'd have shot that one on HP5+" or "that'd have looked great on Acros 100" so I'm sort of half-way there to be honest :)

you da man!!

i never got far with black to white film and took most shots on transparencies
usually fuji pro 100..at the end
i am familiar with tri-x though and thought that was a bit grainy if i remember correctly
the SEP choices i have now tried with a colour landscape and apart from any grain induced also tends to really crank on the contrast
cheers
geof
 
I'll quite often run two or three duplicate layers through Silver EFX starting with toning and finishing with the grain.

But I have a head start as quite often I will be shooting at ISO 3200 to start with ;)
 
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