So...I got me a regular gig - help!

ekimeno

ekimeno

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Name
Mike
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Since there isn't an official photographer at a local cycling circuit race, I volunteered my services, though let them know that I'm new to not only sports photography, but photography in general! They said it would be good to have me there and looked forward to seeing the fruits of my shoot. We agreed that they would use the images on their website with a link to mine if anyone wanted to buy high-res digital images or prints.

While at the race I noticed another photographer there from British Cycling, but learned that he was only taking pics for their (the BC) website, so I wasn't intruding. He even gave me a few pointers! Anyway, I managed to squeeze off a few decent shots using my 400D and 24-105 f/4 L with IS, but have figured out a few things that I need.

1. a big f*** off flash gun!
2. a proper zoom 200-300mm lens with IS
3. learn how to pan shots properly - I was getting loads of blur on side-on shots.

Anyway, that's my C&C of me - please let me have your C&C - I'm going to need it as I've got this gig once a fortnight now and a couple other races that the organisers would like me doing.

no.1
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no.2
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no.3
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no.4
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no.5
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no.6
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no.7
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no.8
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You don't need a big F off flash gun. Most flash will be at 1/8th or 1/16th power and is best way off camera so ebay slaves, skyport or Pocketwizards will be required . IS is handy but has it's problems too (funny BOKEH).

Most important is finding the spot that will guarantee a decent background and work it TO DEATH. A position where you can use a long lens and a wide lens is good if such a place exists.

Finally, get a repore with the riders so they know you may be close but you undersatnd their movements but will not interefere with the progress.

and have fun! :D
 
Thanks for that. Yeah, the guy at BC said he didn't always use IS (but then he didn't use a tripod). The reason I bought an IS lens is so I wouldn't need a tripod. Should I consider bringing along a tripod for shots without IS?

In terms of the flash - I have thought about using some sort of slave, say on the other side of the road in some cases. These races take place right at sunset, so at this time of year it's usually half in the setting sun light and the last half basically in the dark (like in the first 3 shots which were in the last 20-minutes of the race) - makes it a bit tricky for zoomed shots...
 
Looks like you've got some decent shots already there. As HUN says, sorting the background is going to make a huge difference, and will give a much more 'pro' feel to your shots. I'd try getting a bit lower down as well, crouching or sitting to make the riders more prominent in the frame.

The trick with panning is just to practice..a lot. You can always practice just by panning cars on the road, go sit on a roundabout or something, it's boring but the only way really.

PS what's the deal with the light in no. 4? The shadows seem to be going in completely different directions (guy in green at the back).
 
i have to say these are great shots!!!
I have never done this kinda photography, and appreciate it must be fairly difficiult, so im my opinion, you have done really well!!
 
First shot looks like all 3 are on 1 bike, i like that.
Some nice shots there, wonder if you could arrange to get a shot with you in the road and all the bikes passing either side of you?
 
switch of IS for panning, unless the lens has a panning mode setting.

You don't need a tripod, although a monopod may help.

I would suggest investigating public liability insurance.

White balance looks a little off as well.

I am sure that there are particular stances that cycle riders like to see - I know runners and horsey type people like to see their or their horses feet in a particular stance - would be worth looking at the top pro cycle photos to see if there is something like that in cycling.

Good luck
 
Jayst84 said:
Looks like you've got some decent shots already there. As HUN says, sorting the background is going to make a huge difference, and will give a much more 'pro' feel to your shots. I'd try getting a bit lower down as well, crouching or sitting to make the riders more prominent in the frame.

The trick with panning is just to practice..a lot. You can always practice just by panning cars on the road, go sit on a roundabout or something, it's boring but the only way really.

PS what's the deal with the light in no. 4? The shadows seem to be going in completely different directions (guy in green at the back).
Click to expand...

Thanks for these tips and for calling my photos at least decent - I'll book my local roundabout for practise tonight!

There was a photographer situated about 20 yards to my left firing off a massive Nikon camera with impressive looking flash - that's what skewed the shadows I think. :shrug:
 
kmlc said:
i have to say these are great shots!!!
I have never done this kinda photography, and appreciate it must be fairly difficiult, so im my opinion, you have done really well!!
Click to expand...

Thank you - means a lot to me, though I'm sure to get better! :woot:
 
james_death said:
First shot looks like all 3 are on 1 bike, i like that.
Some nice shots there, wonder if you could arrange to get a shot with you in the road and all the bikes passing either side of you?
Click to expand...

I don't think the organisers or riders would like that! I race as well, and this would scare the crap out of me at 25-30mph! It would make a good photo, though...:thinking:

andrewc said:
I would suggest investigating public liability insurance.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your advise, - I'll investigate PLI, though I think I may have it already as part of being a British Cycling member...
 
Hi, well I would'nt agree with the big flash comment, certainly not a requirement. I never use full power on my SB's.

Looks like a crit or APR circuit so I would choose a 70-200 and a shortie to cover that.

I see you are shooting on the outside of the corners, give the inside a try with a shot lens and get low to the ground.
You need to check your WB at the time of shooting, or shoot RAW and fix later.

For cycle shooting, you really need to get you panning down pat. I persoanly use VR when shooting 1/200 and below , I do find it helpfull. Its really just practice...and patience. Getting large groups in focus and achiving some motion blur is the most challenging thing to do. You done well on num 7.

I would def get some insurance, don't think the BC one covers you as a tog, I got seperate insurance for shooting.

I would have a look at Graham Watsons website, he's the guru of cycle photography , I think anyway. I learned alot just studying his images.

Iain
 
Iain MacIntosh said:
Hi, well I would'nt agree with the big flash comment, certainly not a requirement. I never use full power on my SB's.
Click to expand...

Agreed - I'll investigate a slave/flash combination

Iain MacIntosh said:
Looks like a crit or APR circuit so I would choose a 70-200 and a shortie to cover that.

I see you are shooting on the outside of the corners, give the inside a try with a shot lens and get low to the ground.
You need to check your WB at the time of shooting, or shoot RAW and fix later.
Click to expand...

I always shoot in RAW, so I guess I can do some post white balancing in Aperture with these shots.

Iain MacIntosh said:
For cycle shooting, you really need to get you panning down pat. I persoanly use VR when shooting 1/200 and below , I do find it helpfull. Its really just practice...and patience. Getting large groups in focus and achiving some motion blur is the most challenging thing to do. You done well on num 7.
Click to expand...

Agreed - I really struggled to get the right focus - out of the 200+ shots I took, only about 50 of them were 'acceptable' in terms of focus...

Iain MacIntosh said:
I would def get some insurance, don't think the BC one covers you as a tog, I got seperate insurance for shooting.
Click to expand...

Noted - I'll check this out

Iain MacIntosh said:
I would have a look at Graham Watsons website, he's the guru of cycle photography , I think anyway. I learned alot just studying his images.
Click to expand...

Graham Watson is the standard - the best shots in cycling IMO, and he's been doing it for ages - many years of experience.

Iain, many thanks for this advise - really.
 
I have just bought a Merida 901 road bike. Lovely. Goes like stink, I just need to get fit now, which is why I bought it......literally today!

Pete.
 
Nice. Never gone for a 'professional' fit myself, though I'm sure it makes a huge difference. I'm constantly adjusting the saddle and handlebar height and angle on my bikes - bloody annoying.

Here are my racing bikes:

Look KG451 Carbon
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and my favorite bike, my 1987 Battaglin in Columbus SLX steel with some original components:

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Well done ekimeno (y)
I know how hard it is taking pics of cyclists at 40mph, as Im learning myself with the same 400D.
I agree about the panning, as its an artform that needs plenty of practise.

I also volunteered my services for my cycle clubs website (y)

Nice bikes by the way ;)
 
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