So what would be the best setup for sport photography?

Katchit

Katchit

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This is just an 'out of interest' thread.

What do some of you people on here use for your photos, that require action shots?

I have only just got my Lumix DMC-FZ38, and i am a while off buying a new camera yet, i really want to see what i can achieve with the FZ38.

However, that said, i am interested, just so i can have a look at various cameras, lenses, etc... and see what i may be able to get in future.

My main interests and focus would be horse racing, horses and rugby.

I'd be interested to hear what would be a very good setup with a DSLR and lenses, which would achieve 'excellent' results (as long as my technique and knowledge has improved as i know that is a big part of the picture, but im going to learn as much as i can).

Thanks again.
 
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scottthehat said:
depends on how much money you got, i would if money was no object i would have a d3s with a 500 f4 vr on a d3s, and a 200-400m f2.8 on a d3s, and a 70-200mm vr on another d3s, and 24-70mm on another d3s,
and i think that should cover it and also a 600f4 vr on another d3s just to be sure.
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Thanks for that.

Could you explain what all those numbers are please? :)

Sorry, but im still a novice and they just look like numbers to me and dont mean much to me, at present.

Thanks again.
 
scottthehat said:
depends on how much money you got, i would if money was no object i would have a d3s with a 500 f4 vr on a d3s, and a 200-400m f2.8 on a d3s, and a 70-200mm vr on another d3s, and 24-70mm on another d3s,
and i think that should cover it and also a 600f4 vr on another d3s just to be sure.
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surely you mean a 200-400mm F4 ;)
 
If you have a lottery win, just go to the shop with Scottthehat's suggestion and spend your winnings.

However, in the real world, you'll need a decent DSLR (for example canon xxD series or better or nikon D90 / D300 / D7000) and a long fast lens, Ideally something at least 200mm focal length, preferably longer, and with as wide an aperture as possible (low 'f' number, preferably f2.8).

Be waned though - its not the cheapest form of photography by a long stretch
 
daugirdas said:
1D mk IV x2 + 300mm f/2.8 or 400mm f/2.8 + 70-200mm f/2.8 II + 24-70 f/2.8 + 16-35mm f/2.8 + 1.4x III + 2.0x III

I'd go for this as the best currently possible setup, donations are welcome :lol:
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I'm a little confused. It says 1D mk IV where it should say D3s :p :lol: :naughty:


Sports photography is pretty much THE most expensive type of photography to get into. Fast moving subjects, often in low might means fast lenses and high performing bodies will often be needed.

The numbers people are talking about:
D3s: This is nikon's 'top dog' for sports. It's a pro level camera body, with the best high ISO performance on a DSLR to date.

300mm f/2.8: Is a lens. The '300mm' refers to focal length (only one focal length is given, not a range of focal length (like 70-200mm), so this lens is a prime lens, it's focal length is fixed at 300mm). Longer focal lengths are more 'zoomed in' on the subject. And more expensive. The 'f/2.8' refers to it's maximum aperture. This is how much light the lens can gather. Smaller f/numbers mean more light gathered --> means faster shutter speed --> means it can be used in lower light. Smaller f/numbers mean it has a larger aperture. This also means the DoF (depth of field, how much is in focus) is smaller, so backgrounds are more blurred. Fast, long lenses are very expensive, very large and essential for low light sports photography. If it is VR (vibration reduction (nikon)) or IS (image stabilisation (canon)), it has special elements in it that move to compensate for camera shake, steadying the image that reaches the sensor and allowing shots to be taken at lower shutter speeds without camera shake (though it does nothing to stop subject motion. with a slow shutter speed and moving subject, the subject will still be blurred from motion).

70-200mm f/2.8: a zoom lens with the range 70-200mm, and a max aperture constant at f/2.8 (in some zooms, the aperture changes through the zoom range, so the max aperture at the longest focal length is smaller than the max aperture at the shortest focal length.

2x : a tele converter. It is mounted on the rear end of the lens, and multiplies it's focal length by number (e.g, a 300mm becomes a 600mm with a 2x). It's also multiplies the aperture by the number, so and f/2.8 lens with 2x becomes an f/5.6 (which is two f/stops slower).

1D mk IV: canon's top of the range body (for sports).
 
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squishy said:
I'm a little confused. It says 1D mk IV where it should say D3s :p :lol: :naughty:
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Canon 1D are 16MP with 1.3x crop factor vs D3s 12MP full frame, which makes Canon better for cropping and action a bit further. Nikon has better low light sensitivity.

At the end of the day they both can do the job well.
 
squishy said:
Sports photography is pretty much THE most expensive type of photography to get into. Fast moving subjects, often in low might means fast lenses and high performing bodies will often be needed.
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That's a nice myth, but not really true.

Sports kit is pricey, but it doesn't really scratch the surface when you start talking about digital MF photography where entry level bodies start at £10k.

Having said that, the predicted release pricing on the new Canon f2.8's really does move things up a league or so!
 
"Sports photography with a DSLR demands pretty much the most expensive kit in the DSLR range".

Ignoring MF or electron microscope imaging...

The typical setup will be something like the aforementioned:

1D mk IV x2 + 300mm f/2.8 + 70-200mm f/2.8 II + 16-35mm f/2.8 + 1.4x III + 2.0x III
Click to expand...

And a decent flash (at least one, sometimes more!)

Generally, a fast focusing, high frame rate capable (although you might not use it all the time) body, a quality long prime lens, a quality mid length zoom and a wide(ish) angle.

Typically, the final piece of the jigsaw is to add another body to that pile so that you can flip between the long lens and the mid zoom/wide angle quickly while the action is occurring.
 
You forgot the remotely triggered third body. Usually placed in an area where it stands a realistic chance of being soundly knackered! :p :D
 
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