Some Manchester Candids.

moomike

moomike

TPer Emeritus
Messages
5,783
Name
Mike
Edit My Images
Yes
Went for a wander around Manchester the other day with Marcel for some candid photography.
Got to the last ten minutes or so & realised that my camera had been on "one shot" focus mode for the whole day which naturally resulted in me getting loads of "nearly there shots :bang: (we live & learn!)

These are the best imo up to now.
C&C welcome & appreciated as usual (y)

1.
Manchester_girl_02.jpg


2. One of my last ones from the day (after I'd realised my mistake)
Manchester_girl_01.jpg


Cheers for looking (y)
 
Good captures, am a bit lost in what you mean...one shot focus mode?
the second shot would make a nice advertising shot.
 
Shorn said:
Good captures, am a bit lost in what you mean...one shot focus mode?
the second shot would make a nice advertising shot.
Click to expand...

Canon cameras use three set modes for focusing "One shot", "AI Focus" & "AI Servo" I always use AI Servo to track & maintain focus (unless I'm dealing with stationary subjects) One shot locked onto the subject but by the time I'd hit the shutter, they had moved, resulting in a lot of bodged shots.
Cheers for the feedback (y)

LadyLens said:
(y) not bad for rescued from 'one of those days' shots, #1 I like, but love the depth and composition in #2 :clap:
Click to expand...

Thanks Yvonne (y)
 
I love the first. Lovely processing. The 2nd not as much. It feels just a bit off. Think she's just out of "rule" of thirds so most of the shot feels like background blur.
 
Great shots mike.
I have a larger, wider version of the first shot, with a lovely focused "Next" store, and an OOF woman :LOL: :bonk:

Thanks for the tips about the focus modes too. I live and learn too. A few of mine were OOF too doh!
 
Yeah - thanks for the tips on those Canon 'focus modes' - I will move mine over to 'AI Servo' as I often just leave mine in 'One Shot'.

I prefer shot 2 myself as the expression on the ladies face just says it all after a day spent on yer feet shopping...
 
OOOh! well I thought I loved the 1st shot ... until I saw the 2nd!

1st shot could be right out of the 60's ... well if it wasnt for that little zoom machine she's pointing up.

2nd shot, I just love the tones, especially the way the light falls on the girls face oooh! & the eye contact.

Niiiice! (y)
 
I like both shots, but have to agree with pete, No.2 wants croping so that there is a little more space to the left of the main girl.

What sort of focal length were these taken at, how close did you get to the people.
 
I like both of them, nice B&Ws.

The 2nd initially caught my eye. The look on the young lady's face felt right for the placement at the edge of the frame. The more I look at it though, the lamp post not being vertical is drawing my attention.

The young lady in the 1st pic certainly has a classic style and look to her. :)
 
Digging the first, lovely tones on high cheek bones, very nice posture too.
 
whiteflyer said:
I like both shots, but have to agree with pete, No.2 wants croping so that there is a little more space to the left of the main girl.

What sort of focal length were these taken at, how close did you get to the people.
Click to expand...

Cheers for the feedback mate, the first was taken with the 70-200 & the second with the 24-70 (y)

InaGlo said:
Shhh! you're spoiling the ambience! ;)
Click to expand...

:LOL:

redhed17 said:
I like both of them, nice B&Ws.

The 2nd initially caught my eye. The look on the young lady's face felt right for the placement at the edge of the frame. The more I look at it though, the lamp post not being vertical is drawing my attention.

The young lady in the 1st pic certainly has a classic style and look to her. :)
Click to expand...

Cheers for the comments mate, hadn't really considered the post being at an odd angle :bonk: something to pay extra attention to in future (y)

J Gordon said:
Digging the first, lovely tones on high cheek bones, very nice posture too.
Click to expand...

Cheers for that mate (y)
 
Hi Mike

moomike said:
Canon cameras use three set modes for focusing "One shot", "AI Focus" & "AI Servo" I always use AI Servo to track & maintain focus (unless I'm dealing with stationary subjects) One shot locked onto the subject but by the time I'd hit the shutter, they had moved, resulting in a lot of bodged shots.
Click to expand...

Does AI Servo work well for a subject moving in any direction, or best only when directly towards/away?

Did you use Back Button Focusing on the Canon (CF4 I think)? I've tried that a couple of times for moving subjects, seemed to work ok keeping my right thumb on the * button, and then pressing the shutter at the right moment. I know some people use BBF all the time, even for static shots. WDYT?

Cathy
 
Hi Cathy,

AI servo mode will work for any subject in motion & yep, I only ever use the * button for focus - the benefits far outweigh any amount of practice to get used to it!

Think about it in this way, if you have the shutter release set to the shutter button then focus, exposure & the actual taking of the shot are all linked & put together in one half press of the button & then finished with the shutter being depressed the rest of the way.

If focus is set to the * button & the camera is set to AI servo then focus is controlled totally from here independently of exposure & the actual shutter release. This means that, for example, you are shooting sports you can hold the * button to track focus & take the shot & exposure at the instant the shot is taken.

If the player stops then you can release the * button & you have the equivalent of "One Shot" focus & "AI Focus" in one as you can stop the camera from focusing by taking your finger away from the * button. If the player begins to move then all it takes to resume Servo mode & tracking the player is to press the * button again :)

The possibilities for metering are also influenced with this setup as the exposure is only calculated when the shutter is fully depressed - if you have a subject under difficult lighting - eg - moving in & out of shadow, then you are vastly increasing your chance of nailing the exposure.

If you bring your camera along tomorrow I'll check the setup for you (y)
 
Liking number one Mike :). Composition, processing (nice mid tones) bokeh, yumyum. Number 2 I'm not so keen on, composition wise, and the girls face seems a little too flat/smooth.

:)
 
the 1st works on many levels
however the 2nd one needs a slogan for "warehouse" in the top right.. :shrug:

still good shots on the whole
 
wow- that 1st one is just beautiful, perfectly processed, sharp, in-focus, & lovely subject. Really has that stunning 60s/70s feel (well, at least I think that era was stunning ;))! xxxx
 
The first one reminds of the film 'Breakfast at Tiffanys'. It has that kind of feel. :)

The reason I asked about permissions is because I never know if it's right or wrong.

You would think that providing the person isn't harmed or exploited, it wouldn't be a problem, but then again, if you was to make money from it without there consent, what happens then?

Is this the reason why you should ask for the person to sign a model release or, because the photo is taken in the public domain, you don't have to worry?
 
moomike said:
Hi Cathy,

AI servo mode will work for any subject in motion & yep, I only ever use the * button for focus - the benefits far outweigh any amount of practice to get used to it!

Think about it in this way, if you have the shutter release set to the shutter button then focus, exposure & the actual taking of the shot are all linked & put together in one half press of the button & then finished with the shutter being depressed the rest of the way.

If focus is set to the * button & the camera is set to AI servo then focus is controlled totally from here independently of exposure & the actual shutter release. This means that, for example, you are shooting sports you can hold the * button to track focus & take the shot & exposure at the instant the shot is taken.

If the player stops then you can release the * button & you have the equivalent of "One Shot" focus & "AI Focus" in one as you can stop the camera from focusing by taking your finger away from the * button. If the player begins to move then all it takes to resume Servo mode & tracking the player is to press the * button again :)

The possibilities for metering are also influenced with this setup as the exposure is only calculated when the shutter is fully depressed - if you have a subject under difficult lighting - eg - moving in & out of shadow, then you are vastly increasing your chance of nailing the exposure.

If you bring your camera along tomorrow I'll check the setup for you (y)
Click to expand...

Hi Moomike,

This set up has intrigued me. If i understand correctly you use the * button for focussing, and the 'normal' button for actually takingthe picture.

So for a moving subject you track it and keep it focussed by keeping the * button pressed, then when you like the composure you hit the 'normal' button which will take the exposure reading and take the picture.

If that is correct i have a couple of questions.
How do you set the focus to the * button?
The * button (correct me if im wrong) was the AE lock (or a meter reading). Will this function be cancelled by seeting it to be the focus button.
Doesnt the 'normal' button override the focus from the * button.

(i have a 400d by the way)

Thanks

Gpc
 
AlisonD said:
Yeah - thanks for the tips on those Canon 'focus modes' - I will move mine over to 'AI Servo' as I often just leave mine in 'One Shot'.

I prefer shot 2 myself as the expression on the ladies face just says it all after a day spent on yer feet shopping...
Click to expand...

While I agree totally with Mike using A1 servo for moving shots, I think you need to be a little cautious using it all the time, with one 'One shot' mode the AF point and focus confirmation light illuminate and the shutter won't fire unless focus is achieved, in A1 servo this doesn't happen, so you are never 100 % sure your subject is in focus, and you are not aware which Af point has achieved focus.
 
Go with the flow, No1 is a cracker.

Looking at a different crop, not to improve, just a different (and slightly abstract) way of looking:

Manchester_girl_02.jpg
 
englandshottest2 said:
wow- that 1st one is just beautiful, perfectly processed, sharp, in-focus, & lovely subject. Really has that stunning 60s/70s feel (well, at least I think that era was stunning ;))! xxxx
Click to expand...

Thanks Alex :)

photostar_1 said:
I really like number 1....for all the reasons that everyone has already said.

Now I'm intrigued about this back focus stuff....never heard of it before.....must try out what you have said!
Click to expand...

Thank you Carole :) You should definitely try the * focus, completely changed the way I photographed.

AmandaN said:
The first one reminds of the film 'Breakfast at Tiffanys'. It has that kind of feel. :)

The reason I asked about permissions is because I never know if it's right or wrong.

You would think that providing the person isn't harmed or exploited, it wouldn't be a problem, but then again, if you was to make money from it without there consent, what happens then?

Is this the reason why you should ask for the person to sign a model release or, because the photo is taken in the public domain, you don't have to worry?
Click to expand...

Editorial use of an image taken in a public place does not require a consent form - if you wish to sell someones likeness as a photo though then you would need a model release.

gpc1 said:
Hi Moomike,

This set up has intrigued me. If i understand correctly you use the * button for focussing, and the 'normal' button for actually taking the picture.

So for a moving subject you track it and keep it focussed by keeping the * button pressed, then when you like the composure you hit the 'normal' button which will take the exposure reading and take the picture.

If that is correct i have a couple of questions.
How do you set the focus to the * button?
The * button (correct me if im wrong) was the AE lock (or a meter reading). Will this function be cancelled by seeting it to be the focus button.
Doesnt the 'normal' button override the focus from the * button.

(i have a 400d by the way)

Thanks

Gpc
Click to expand...

Yep, you are correct there Gpc, to set focus to the * button it is custom function number 4 & set it to either option 4-1 or 4-3. 4-1 will lock exposure when the shutter is pressed half way and 4-3 will calculate the exposure the instant the image is taken (I use this one)
The normal button will be cancelled as the AF button if this function is chosen :)
Just give me a shout if you need any help setting it up (y)

Les McLean said:
While I agree totally with Mike using A1 servo for moving shots, I think you need to be a little cautious using it all the time, with one 'One shot' mode the AF point and focus confirmation light illuminate and the shutter won't fire unless focus is achieved, in A1 servo this doesn't happen, so you are never 100 % sure your subject is in focus, and you are not aware which Af point has achieved focus.
Click to expand...

I would feel far too restricted by the fact that the camera won't fire unless focused if I were to choose this mode - fair enough, if I were shooting landscapes or still life then I may use 1 shot (I still used servo for them though but that may be why I was hopeless at landscapes :p) Some of the best images ever have been slightly (or a lot) OOF - to miss a shot like that because you weren't confident that you'd attained focus would be a shame. This focus mode should improve your confidence on focussing as you have to be more accurate - takes a bit of getting used to I will admit but once you've got the hang of it then it can really make a difference.

This is obviously not for everyone but for anyone that shoots fast moving or unpredictable objects in difficult conditions then it's a godsend imho (y)

Edit: Nice crop idea btw (y)
 
moomike said:
I would feel far too restricted by the fact that the camera won't fire unless focused if I were to choose this mode - fair enough, if I were shooting landscapes or still life then I may use 1 shot (I still used servo for them though but that may be why I was hopeless at landscapes :p) Some of the best images ever have been slightly (or a lot) OOF - to miss a shot like that because you weren't confident that you'd attained focus would be a shame. This focus mode should improve your confidence on focussing as you have to be more accurate - takes a bit of getting used to I will admit but once you've got the hang of it then it can really make a difference.

This is obviously not for everyone but for anyone that shoots fast moving or unpredictable objects in difficult conditions then it's a godsend imho (y)

Edit: Nice crop idea btw (y)
Click to expand...

I don't diasagree Mike, and for experienced togs, it's great, I was thinking more of those that are just learning the craft, and as most subjects tend not to move, 'one shot AF' is the best way of ensuring you get your shots in focus, once you are comfortable with this, yes, you can explore A1 servo for even non-moving shots.

The main reason I use one shot AF, is that I use selective focus points a lot (mainly landscapes) generally to control where my DOF will be.
 
Like the first, but LOVE the second.

Fair enough, it doesn't follow the rule of thirds, but I'd personally credit you with enough savvy to say this was deliberate? ;)

The shallow DOF and the composition serve to isolate the subject and emphasise the 'moment' and i honestly dont believe blindly following the 'rules' would lead to a shot that was half so interesting.

Good work fella (y)
 
Les McLean said:
I don't diasagree Mike, and for experienced togs, it's great, I was thinking more of those that are just learning the craft, and as most subjects tend not to move, 'one shot AF' is the best way of ensuring you get your shots in focus, once you are comfortable with this, yes, you can explore A1 servo for even non-moving shots.

The main reason I use one shot AF, is that I use selective focus points a lot (mainly landscapes) generally to control where my DOF will be.
Click to expand...

I think that it'll work either way tbh & everyone's different (y) I was thrown in at the deep end though & got used to this method faster rather than having to unlearn bad habits I had picked up :LOL:
With the advances in camera focus I was never worried the the camera wouldn't respond the way I wished it to - I found that a quick tap of the AF button will equate to one shot focus anyway.

On reflection, I'd probably recommend that anyone considering this setup give it a try for a week or so - don't just do it for a day though as it won't be enough time for you to begin to get used to the difference.

I will not under any conditions question your judgement on landscape shots though Les (I have seen your work :LOL: (y))

Jonnyreb said:
Like the first, but LOVE the second.

Fair enough, it doesn't follow the rule of thirds, but I'd personally credit you with enough savvy to say this was deliberate? ;)

The shallow DOF and the composition serve to isolate the subject and emphasise the 'moment' and i honestly dont believe blindly following the 'rules' would lead to a shot that was half so interesting.

Good work fella (y)
Click to expand...

:LOL: Cheers Jonny, much appreciated mate (y)
 
moomike said:
On reflection, I'd probably recommend that anyone considering this setup give it a try for a week or so - don't just do it for a day though as it won't be enough time for you to begin to get used to the difference.
Click to expand...
It's the only method I use as well nowadays.

nice shots mike, 2nd would be my preference
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top